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Fordman351's DOHC EL Fairmont: Back On The Streets!!!
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Tocchi
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 11:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

LOL matt ... its easy to take motor/box out in 1 piece... just remove harmonic balancer and its a walk in the park.

for the TC, see how theres a gap for where the SM goes?
attach it there, and you should be able to get a bolt and your fingers inbetween flywheel and block in the other top hole.

then use a strap wrench to turn over motor to get other 2 bolts icon_smile.gif
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fordman351
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 11:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tocchi wrote:
LOL matt ... its easy to take motor/box out in 1 piece... just remove harmonic balancer and its a walk in the park.


I still had the harmonic balancer attached! See...i'm more skilled hahahaha! icon_razz.gif ....and thpethial.

Quote:
for the TC, see how theres a gap for where the SM goes?
attach it there, and you should be able to get a bolt and your fingers inbetween flywheel and block in the other top hole.


That's what i thought, but through the starter motor gap, i don't think the bolts are going to fit. Above the flexplate and in the gap behind it should be easy, but how am i going to torque up the bolts so they're tight enough and dont let go?
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Tocchi
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 12:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the starter motor gap im talking about is the 3" hole.

do them to the torque neccesary. look in the EL workshop manual icon_smile.gif

if the engine can turn over easy (its harder when you put new bearings in), then turn it over from the harmonic balancer (22mm socket)
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Paulmac
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 3:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I give in, what does the manual say?
"attach the tc to the flex-plate with care" or does it give you a helpful hint? "make sure you tension the bolts in stages" LOL [sadly]
Ford must be very confident the bolts will never need checking or the box removed if it's an engine out job!
It begs the questions, how did someone get the old one off and why bother?
I'll stay tuned to check out the next instalment.
Good luck,
Paul
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Dansedgli
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 5:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cant you access them from underneath the sump? There is a blanking plate on the bottom of the sump facing the flywheel isnt there?
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twason
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 5:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dansedgli wrote:
Cant you access them from underneath the sump? There is a blanking plate on the bottom of the sump facing the flywheel isnt there?
Yes its a little plastic flap that gains you access to the bolts.
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xpression
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 7:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

twason wrote:
Dansedgli wrote:
Cant you access them from underneath the sump? There is a blanking plate on the bottom of the sump facing the flywheel isnt there?
Yes its a little plastic flap that gains you access to the bolts.


agreed
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fordman351
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 8:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there!? I have had the engine sitting on the ground since i bought it and have never checked underneath it haha. Glad thats got that plate there!
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RSWEPN
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 12:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yep, perfect for accessing convertor bolts icon_smile.gif i should know, ive pulled out my box like 10times =[
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fordman351
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2008 10:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nothing much happened today, just scrubbed and degreased the engine bay, tidied up a bit of wiring in readiness to run cables to the bootspace in which i will install my battery. I also had a tinker aroung with the gearbox, took the e-series bellhousing off and installed the AU (same as BA) bellhousing.

Mmmm, clean engine bay, compared to what it was!


It doesn't look like anything spcial, but it's good for a reliable 450hp.


AU/BA bellhousing on the left, e-series on the right, bottom bolt holes the only difference.


Custom billet servo, i polished it for the photo hahaha!
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Disco Frank
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2008 11:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nice mate nice

give the box a good clean and some matte black paint from a rattle can before u drop it in


shame u could not get the bolt holes in the EF house machined in
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twason
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 5:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="fordman351"] bellhousing off and installed the AU (same as BA) bellhousing.
quote] To be pedantic its not exactly the same, the BA has mounting points for the shifter cable where the AU does not.
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twason
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 5:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Disco Frank wrote:
nice mate nice

give the box a good clean and some matte black paint from a rattle can before u drop it in


shame u could not get the bolt holes in the EF house machined in
Its not a matter of adding the holes as there is not enough metal on the bottom of the E series bellhousing, you would need to graft a strip on then drill it.
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Disco Frank
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 8:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes i know that man ^^ hence why i said shame it could not get them machined for this
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fordman351
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I finally built up the courage to cut up my crossmember, i'll post up pictures tonight after work on how i did this.

The towtruck is coming to pick up the car tomorrow to take it to Adrenaline and have the crossmember welded up. Being a high strength steel, im not keen on 'just' welding it together, being a structual component i don't want welds cracking and carrying on.

Also getting new braided steel transmission lines and a new high pressure power steering hose made up. Theyre not going to bo cheap, around about the $450-$500 mark!!
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fordman351
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 11:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Righto, heres the pictures of my crossmember modification for anyone interested about doing the conversion themselves. I'm not welding it up, as i don't have a welder, even if i did i can't weld anyway haha.

Righthand (exhaust side) of sump.


Front of sump.


Lefthand (intake side) of sump.


Markings as to where to cut. I ended up making the cutout slightly bigger.


The final cut crossmember. This is the second attempt, i made the opening a little wider, just to be sure of clearance.


This was the first cut i made, theres not a heck of alot of clearance.


From underneath, again this was the first attempt at cutting, so now there is a bit more clearance.


Engine just sitting there, no box, just a test-fit.
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natho
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 2:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nice work, cant wait to see how this goes
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fordman351
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 2:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The crossmemeber is being welded as i post this up, should be ready for tonight, then i'll have the engine in tomorrow......hopefully.

Also picked up my braided transmission cooler lines and modified power steering hose today, gand total.........$547!!! But oh so tasty.
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Gaz
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

looking at your photo's and the one of the modified BA sump, i must say it looks like it would be f**k close to being able to fit with a modded sump and no kframe mods...
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Slick
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you know if that K-frame will pass a engineers report?
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