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Auto to Manual Conversion Guide
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ToranaGuy
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 10:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

RIDDO wrote:
i know i've probably overlooked it, but is this the same to an extent when converting the v8 auto to manual?? or is there anyone out there who may be able to help??


The mechanical side of the conversion should be the same out with old auto & in with new manual. Dash removal is the same if you need to swap peddle boxes ( if not using the mal wood clutch pin ).

Wiring, well that depends...... does your V8 have a separate trans computer or not?

My g/f had a chance to drive my EB with the 5spd in it the other w/e, and was rather impressed with it, to the point she is rather disappointed she will have to drive the ED with the auto in it for a while, mighty boy has either blown a head gaskit or cracked the head. icon_sad.gif Not sure yet.

Cheers

ToranaGuy
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efgiar
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 6:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

does anyone have this doco around? i cant see it anywere
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FordFairmont
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 6:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lol first post, first page icon_wink.gif
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markwright
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2008 1:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

regarding removing the spigot bearing,
wet paper towel. or news paper.
icon_smile.gif

after the flywheel is off and you can just see the edge of the crank and the spigot bearing, wet a heap of paper towel and push it inside the bearing, compact it heaps until its bulging out of the edge, then use a punch the size of the hole and a hammer (good size bolt if you dont have a punch) and compress the paper in more, then keep putting in more paper and compressing.
saw it done today in an EA!
the idea is that compressing the paper through the bearing hole will force the bearing back out evenly over the whole surface due to displacement.
id say thats cheaper and easier than sourcing the tool icon_biggrin.gif
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markwright
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2008 1:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

now iv got my own question icon_redface.gif
firstly, will my LTD tailshaft fit straight into the EA/B gearbox? just wondering considering the EA boxes have different ratios to the EF boxes..

secondly.. with the resistor trick to the auto ecu, another guy at work has had idling issues, it sits at 1100 rpm. he's told me though that he tricked it into thinking its in drive rather than neutral so im assuming it thinks its under load and being countered by hte brakes so adjusts accordingly.
but even tricking into neutral i would have thought it would idle higher anyway, due to a flywheel weighing at lot less than a torque convertor and therefore much easier to spin and slow down
(hence the better throttle response in factory manuals)

i hope i've made sense and thinking the right way icon_eek.gif
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ToranaGuy
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2008 4:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would be very surprised if there is any changes in the shaft diameter & splines between falcon & ltd's. Only the length to suit the body.

As for the engine rev's. I thought the docu's say to trick the ecu to think neutral? Rev's are probably higher because it thinks it's got a load on it when it doesn't.

Yes the throttle response of the manual is much crisper. icon_smile.gif Now i've gone manual, i don't think i could go back, except on a 1/4 mile car maybe.

Cheers

ToranaGuy
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markwright
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2008 6:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeh, i dont know why he tricked it into drive and im sure thats most of the reason its ideling high, but would the weight of the torque converter being more than the flwheel make the auto ecu want to rev a little higher to compensate?
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markwright
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 11:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

probly somethin to mention..
i had mine all goin well last night and this mornin at work, right down to the end etc everythin good.
went to put in the cltch cable and adjust it up... f**k! too long icon_evil.gif
guess i should mention that an EA(so i assume EB and ED) clutch cables wont fit EF's lol.. so spewin because it was too late to rush out and get one and finish off! have to wait till monday arvo icon_cry.gif
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Lancey_B
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 11:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

whoops!! 13mm deep sockets also cant be used as a bodge spacer...
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markwright
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 12:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

myess this its true lance.. welcome! haha
works fkin awesom now, that pedal fork bit is holding strong now too. so its all good icon_biggrin.gif

killer skids icon_twisted.gif
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ToranaGuy
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 9:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

markwright wrote:
killer skids icon_twisted.gif


Yep, much fun. icon_twisted.gif

I did one of them out of the side street onto the main road infront of work the other night, (9pm no traffic, industrial area) had it sideways until i was grabbing 3rd. icon_eek.gif The next day, the boss said " good on ya, that was a fair effort! ". icon_eek.gif I work for an IT company btw, not a workshop. My workshop is my shed & driveway.

Anyway, i'm sure we have all been down the road of sockets to use as dodgy spacers! I drove my torana around for 3 mths with a socket " extending " the throw out lever enough so i could get some clutch travel!.

As for the not going back to Auto thing, well i've finally sorted my running issues with my ED, which gave up it's manual & is now auto. It's just a GLI i will be getting rego'd as a "bomb" for me & my g/f to drive when either the EB or the Mighty boy are not able to be driven. By bomb it's not a bad car, only 115k kms on the clock, fairly straight now, but a few dints & scratches. I hope i don't have to drive it too oftern, it will be embaressing compared to my EB GT Mockup.

Cheers

ToranaGuy
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stoj79
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 12:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

done my conversion about 4-5 months ago now been real slack in regards to idle. Problem is with the idle switch pluged in wont idle below 1500-1600 rpm with it out i can adjust anywere i like but then in the mornign i have to hold the rev whilst its codl and also if the air is off gettiign sick of constantly adjust the screw on the idle switch need help want to just make it sit o 800-900 with it always stalling. I have the standard ecu still but thermos etc all work fine did the resistor trick for that
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FordFairmont
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 7:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sounds like you havnt done the resistor trick properly. You will find that the wires to use in your car could be different to the document

With a workshop manual you can rule out all the solenoid wires, till you end up with 4 that must be for the resistor trick
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TROYMAN
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 9:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

markwright wrote:
probly somethin to mention..
i had mine all goin well last night and this mornin at work, right down to the end etc everythin good.
went to put in the cltch cable and adjust it up... f**k! too long icon_evil.gif
guess i should mention that an EA(so i assume EB and ED) clutch cables wont fit EF's lol.. so spewin because it was too late to rush out and get one and finish off! have to wait till monday arvo icon_cry.gif


actually 1988 ea's before 89 had a short cable.
but ea from 89 untill el are the same cable..
i found that out when i went to ford to get a new cable..
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phongus
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

stoj79 wrote:
done my conversion about 4-5 months ago now been real slack in regards to idle. Problem is with the idle switch pluged in wont idle below 1500-1600 rpm with it out i can adjust anywere i like but then in the mornign i have to hold the rev whilst its codl and also if the air is off gettiign sick of constantly adjust the screw on the idle switch need help want to just make it sit o 800-900 with it always stalling. I have the standard ecu still but thermos etc all work fine did the resistor trick for that


ISC could also be stuffed. Try and borrow someone else's who knows it works. If not wiring might be wrong.

phong =P~
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frankieh
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 3:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does anyone know if there is anyone in WA selling the Mals clutch pin?

If I could get a good look at it, I could probably make one, but if it isn't that expensive, its probably not worth th effort.
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ToranaGuy
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

frankieh wrote:
Does anyone know if there is anyone in WA selling the Mals clutch pin?

If I could get a good look at it, I could probably make one, but if it isn't that expensive, its probably not worth th effort.


I have a feeling the clutch pin is under $100 AUD. I even thought it was posted in this thread somewhere near the start???

Cheers

ToranaGuy
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frankieh
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, it was... $85.

I wanted to know if anyone was selling them in WA so I don't have to get it shipped and wait for weeks.

it looks like a bolt with two thick washers with cutouts.. could probably fabricate one pretty cheaply...

really don't want to pull the dash down.. I hate doing that.
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arm79
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a bit more than that. Its starts as a complete metal rod and is turned down to the precise measurements, and a thread applied to one side of the rod.

If you were to copy, u'd need the original pin from Ford, which can be bought seperately for about $12. If your game enough, you could weld it into the box while its in the car.

Otherwise, buy the pin. For the stuffing around you making one yourself, ud best just pay the $100 to get it over.

And Mal sends everything overnight express, so thats only 2 days in Wait Awhile-land.

But then, a pedal box swap is only about 1.5 hours work. So its not that hard if you wanna be cheap.
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frankieh
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 10:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks ARm79,

If it really is only 1.5 hours to change over the pedal box, perhaps it is worth doing that... I was under the impression that it was much longer than that.

I've read that the manual pedal boxes can break.. do you know where exactly they break? I'd like to re-enforce it before I put it in if possible.

rgds

Frank
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