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Auto to Manual Conversion Guide
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arm79
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 11:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can do it in about 1.5 hours... Mostly cos im highly intelligent and capable... F**k modest too.. icon_lol.gif

But depends who you speak to, some will say 2 hours, some will say 8.

To get a dash out, I take it out in a whole unit. Radio, PAB, cluster, everything. Tis a bit heavy, but its only 1 console, 11 bolts and 10 plugs. And the whole thing comes out like they put it in at the factory. Installation is simply reverse of removal.

The pin is held in by 3 tack welds. Pretty pissy. The manual pedal box itself is exactly the same as an auto, just with the pin welded in. And normally they break by ripping the welds out or twisting the pin in the hole so the whole side of the pedal box rips off.

I have a Mal wood pin. And to reinforce it I got one of these 3mm thick steel patio/wood joiners.. You know, a flat wide bar with holes pre drilled. I shaped that to match the side of the pedal box and put that over the pin on the inside of the box and used the pin bolt to hold it on. Put another bolt at the back to keep it straight. Did the job just nicely.
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ToranaGuy
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My peddle box was broken & torn when i bought my organ donor ED, i tapped it back into shape & welded it back together. Have not had any issues with it breaking again, yet. 12mths and lotsa abuse on!

I did however, tear my firewall about 8cm from around the clutch hole towards the brake booster. That's due to the LPG fitter cutting the hole for the wiring right thru fords reinforcing in the firewall. I pulled the dash out, was fixing aircon at the same time, and tapped it back into place. MIG welded it up like the peddle box, and also fit a 100x40x3mm plate down the firewall, so it won't twist & tear again.

Since i have done this, i can now feel the peddle box flexing when i'm using the clutch briskly. I should have also re-inforced the peddle box while it was out last time! It's a job i would recommend to anyone, but it's also a job you really need to do with the box out of the car, else you risk heat, fire & weld splatter damage to your car. It was really hard welding the firewall without setting the carpet or the heat liner on the firewall on fire! icon_twisted.gif

Cheers

ToranaGuy
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frankieh
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting..

I'm gonna take a look under my dash tonight..
have to work out what I plan to do..

I have a mig welder myself and can probably make up something to solve all my woes.. won't know till I take a look see.

What I don't really understand.. the manuals were the base models, the auto was the upgrade.. why not just leave the same pedal box in both ?

rgds

Franki
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Damo
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 7:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

it is the same pedal box. The manual one just has a few extra bits tacked on so to speak.
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ToranaGuy
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2008 10:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Damo wrote:
it is the same pedal box. The manual one just has a few extra bits tacked on so to speak.


Yes the manual was the base model but almost everyone spec'd the car's up with the auto's at the very least.


frankieh,

The peddle box is the same as stated, and you will see a hole in the side of the peddle box pointing towards the middle of the car. It's here ford tacked on a extra 1mm or so plate to the side of the peddle box, then stuck the clutch pin thru the hole.

If i had of modified mine, i would have made up a 3mm plate of mild steel with a hole in the same spot, and seam welded it to the peddle box. This would stop most of the flex in the box, from the clutch peddle being pressed. The flex is the problem, eventually it leads to cracked / broken welds & torn steel.

Cheers

ToranaGuy
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destroyer
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 8:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thank god this is here im doing this soon haha in mine and my nephews so fun times ahead
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ToranaGuy
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

destroyer wrote:
thank god this is here im doing this soon haha in mine and my nephews so fun times ahead


Yep it's a great doco!

If you both love swapping cogs you will find a new love for your fords, i only liked mine before the manual conversion, now i love it. The manual was definitely the one thing the car was missing the most when i bought it. Damn ghia! icon_biggrin.gif

When you do the conversion, think long & hard about which way you will go with the peddle boxes. My EB, i will probably have to pull the dash out again soon to fix the heater box, so i'm thinking seriously about getting another auto peddle box, the mal wood clutch pin & some 3mm plate steel and doing what i should have done in the first place!

Cheers

ToranaGuy
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nicco
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 10:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i know i'm bumping up this thread, but I just wanted to say a huge thanks to voxace for doing this guide.

it was a massive help while doing my conversion these last few days.

just wondering too for people who have done the resistor trick, when i start the car it gives it a huge rev (~2000rpm), but settles down to a normal idle. when its cold it will idle high (~1100) till it warms up a bit. is this normal?

it doesnt hang on the gear changes or anything, and once its warm it idles perfectly.
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PIMP_LTD
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 11:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

nicco wrote:
i know i'm bumping up this thread, but I just wanted to say a huge thanks to voxace for doing this guide.

it was a massive help while doing my conversion these last few days.

just wondering too for people who have done the resistor trick, when i start the car it gives it a huge rev (~2000rpm), but settles down to a normal idle. when its cold it will idle high (~1100) till it warms up a bit. is this normal?

it doesnt hang on the gear changes or anything, and once its warm it idles perfectly.


I think they should idle high when warming. Mine does the exact opposite, and kind of runs like a bucket with the resistor trick. I've double and triple checked wiring, and its all good?
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FordFairmont
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 11:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mine has had a BAD rev hang since the conversion.

Have fitted new ISC, and have wired up loom correctly, and have fitted manual ECU, but wont go into diag mode cause the ECU thinks its always in gear.

f**k the car..... now i just run it with the ISC blocked off completely which did work fine with smaller cams, but with the cam i have now it wont idle on cold starts
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PIMP_LTD
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 11:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah i replaced all the sensors, and it changed nothing. So i had i plugged in to a scanner yesterday, and its in limp mode because of it and seems to be f**k with everything. Seems to work on some cars but not on others?

Oh well i bought a manual ECU, that'll sort it. icon_biggrin.gif
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frankieh
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got a multimeter and see exactly what resistance the ECU is seeing.. it might not be what you think.

Mine seems to be ok, it idles fine when cold but to low when warm.. but thats because I have an EL computer hooked up to a ED log manifold motor.. when the EL motor goes in, it "should" be fine.
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PIMP_LTD
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 3:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah i've checked everything, just seems my car don't like it.
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PIMP_LTD
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 3:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also what i'm interested in knowing is, in the tech doc, part 5 electrical, when you get to the modding the auto loom part, and it says "if you have a manual ecu, you can skip this step", ........ So with a manual ecu, does anything at all plug into the big round plug in the engine bay? Or is it just left empty and taped up?

Andrew.
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FordFairmont
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 6:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

PIMP_LTD wrote:
So with a manual ecu, does anything at all plug into the big round plug in the engine bay? Or is it just left empty and taped up?


yeah when i fitted a manual ecu, i just removed the plug which had the resistor trick and left it empty and taped up like you said
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nicco
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 6:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

frankieh wrote:
Mine seems to be ok, it idles fine when cold but to low when warm..


hrmm... after a bit more driving today it seems to be unting around really badly. still gives the big rev on start up and revs high when cold, but now when its warm it'll be up and down all over the shop. stalled a couple of times today when i threw the clutch in at speed icon_confused.gif

seems strange. i think i need to clean the idle speed controller though, its pretty s**t. icon_lol.gif
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frankieh
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did all my resistor work at the actual ECU loom an inch from the ECU.

then again, I have a TCM controlling my tranny.. the EL ECU was bypassed so it didn't think it had to as well.
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TROYMAN
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nicco wrote:
frankieh wrote:
Mine seems to be ok, it idles fine when cold but to low when warm..


hrmm... after a bit more driving today it seems to be unting around really badly. still gives the big rev on start up and revs high when cold, but now when its warm it'll be up and down all over the shop. stalled a couple of times today when i threw the clutch in at speed icon_confused.gif

seems strange. i think i need to clean the idle speed controller though, its pretty s**t. icon_lol.gif


providing everything is right.
give the ecu a few days to re-learn..
as the hunting should smooth out once the ecu finds its happy spot..
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nicco
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 6:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

troy,

i was hoping that was all it was going to be. i'll just have to sit tight! icon_redface.gif icon_lol.gif
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ToranaGuy
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2008 11:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

PIMP_LTD wrote:
........ So with a manual ecu, does anything at all plug into the big round plug in the engine bay? Or is it just left empty and taped up?

Andrew.


Dude,

If you have the factory manual gearbox loom, it fit's into a rectangle plug on the loom in the engine bay, next to the round auto plug. There will be nothing plugged into the auto plug.

I think i posted the factory wiring part number somewhere on this forum, maybe even earlier in this thread?

Cheers

ToranaGuy
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