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adjusting base idle and setting t.p.s. voltage
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XR9UTE
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 17, 2008 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

FordFairmont wrote:
does the 0.98 volts apply to 6 cylinders as well?

my tps showed 0.98 volts with engine off, but when the engine is started and idling, it shows 1.30. This is with the isc disconnected.

Does this sound right?


Yes it applies to six cylinders as well. It should stay at the same voltage whether idling or engine off. VREF is regulated to 5V within the EEC so if you are seeing higher voltage when running you either have grounding issues or you may have a mechanical cause like tension on the throttle cable when the engine is running?
Manual 5.0's will get just as much out of setting the TPS correctly as auto ones in fact all EEC vehicles will benefit from this.
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FordFairmont
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2008 7:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok thanks. I had an idea after reading this thread, cause my new cam had a really tough idle if i bumped up the throttle at 850 rpm, but then the ecu saw part throttle by the tps and always hung in in revs when decelarating.

So i drilled out the holes on the tps hoping to bring it back, but the guts of it popped out, and its now F**k even though i put it back the same way?

Gonna try again today
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FordFairmont
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2008 3:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok like i said, i want to be able to bump up the idle to 850rpm, but the drawback is anything over 800rpm and the revs hang at 1300rpm for a few seconds when slowing down to a stop, then will drop to a tough idle again.

So i modified the tps mounts so i could adjust it back to under 1 volt whilst having the idle screw bumped up to 850rpm, but still the revs hang.

Im wondering how the revs hang when i have set the correct voltage at the tps sensor? Why would the ecu do this to anything over 800rpm idle.

I have the isc disconnected and im running the car without it cause its F**k
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muzza
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2008 6:20 pm    Post subject: Correctly reading TPS voltage Reply with quote

Guys, excellent procedure as posted by XR9UTE.
Been usung a similar method myself...works well.

Only one comment.......

You need to connect the multimeters black probe to the ground wire in the TPS plug and not to the engine or body to get a correct TPS voltage reading.
Connecting to engine or body will, invariably, give incorrect readings.
There is usually a 0.1v - 0.3v difference between the TPS ground and the engine or body.

Also, if you have a V8 with two TPS (one for engine and one for transmission) then the relevant ground circuit must be used for each TPS...cannot use the engine signal ground to measure the tramsmission TPS and vice-versa.

WHY IS THIS SO :-
The ground wiring in a vehicle connects through a whole bunch of wiring which eventually connects to the negative terminal of the battery.
The ground wiring needs to be kept as short as possible for current carrying reasons.
So there are several ground circuits in the vehicle.
Problem for electronic systems is that noise develops on many of the ground circuits - there is a voltage difference between them and electrical noise (amazing to see on CRO).
To overcome this, the ECU uses a seperate ground circuit (called signal ground) to which all the sensors, and only the sensors, are connected.
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XR9UTE
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 11:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

FordFairmont wrote:
ok like i said, i want to be able to bump up the idle to 850rpm, but the drawback is anything over 800rpm and the revs hang at 1300rpm for a few seconds when slowing down to a stop, then will drop to a tough idle again.

So i modified the tps mounts so i could adjust it back to under 1 volt whilst having the idle screw bumped up to 850rpm, but still the revs hang.

Im wondering how the revs hang when i have set the correct voltage at the tps sensor? Why would the ecu do this to anything over 800rpm idle.

I have the isc disconnected and im running the car without it cause its F**k


You need the ISC connected because it controls your target idle rpm. Get a new one and try again.
Thanks muzza and that's certainly a very important point you raise. The trans controller and EEC are separate which is why they require separate TPS's and never shall they meet. Except of course for AU where V8 EECs had an enough drivers to integrate trans control within the EEC.
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FordFairmont
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 6:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes muzza's pont about taking earth with a multimeter from the negative wire on the tps was correct, now i know why the tps voltage changed as soon as the car was running when i was measuring from the chassis earth.
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Stevo
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PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 4:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have the two TPS modules, do i have to do this on both to set it?
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PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2008 9:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bump ! icon_sad.gif

Do I need to hook multimeter up to both of them, or just one and turn them both until reaching right voltage?
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Mackagtho
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PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2008 8:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

just the top one mate,the other is for gearbox auto kick down im pretty sure
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 1:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I cleaned out my ED's throttle body last night and afterwards it was idling at 1400rpm! Fiddled with the idle screw and I got it to idle close to 2000rpm but couldn't get it lower then 1200 or so. I'm guessing I knocked the TPS and/or the idle screw when I put it all back together. Do either of these have any bearing on the throttle linkage? The accelerator pedal has been feeling quite stiff since I cleaned it all out (throttle body and linkage). I'm not quite sure what I've done here.
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2008 7:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just tried to set my base idle and the engine wouldn't idle at all. It just switched off.
I disconnected the battery at the negative terminal.
unplugged the idle speed motor plug. Left it for about 45 minutes.
reconnected the battery up.
Tried to start the car but no go.
I put the idle speed plug back on and then it worked.

I've got TPS set at .97v and the rpm at 750rpm at idle.
Idle fluctuates badly for a few seconds after taking the foot of the accelerator. It dops to nearly stall the engine and then bounces back up and down etc until it sits on 750rpm.
Someone recently changed their rotor cap and stopped this sort of thing. I'm getting an MSD cap so hopefully it will sort it out. Alos getting a coil but thats unrelated.
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2008 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you tried blocking off the ISC completely and turning the throttle body screw till it idles at 800rpm when warm?

Im running the car like this and is going great, no idle probs. f**k the ISC
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Timmeh
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2008 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you unplug the ISC does it remain in the full open position or part way open or closed?
I'm guessing not closed cause if the TB butterfly was shut no air gets in so is it part open or fully open when the ISC is unplugged?


icon_lol.gif
FordFairmont wrote:
f**k the ISC
icon_lol.gif
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FordFairmont
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2008 7:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Timmeh wrote:
If you unplug the ISC does it remain in the full open position or part way open or closed?


im not sure about that, but thats why ive made a new gasket to block it off completely but still leave it plugged in and its done wonders

No more rev hang, the car decelerates better when dropping down a gear, idle is smooth and doesnt flucuate.

You just gotta find the right position for the TB screw where it idles when cold, and doesnt idle too high when warm
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TROYMAN
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2008 11:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Timmeh wrote:
If you unplug the ISC does it remain in the full open position or part way open or closed?
I'm guessing not closed cause if the TB butterfly was shut no air gets in so is it part open or fully open when the ISC is unplugged?


icon_lol.gif
FordFairmont wrote:
f**k the ISC
icon_lol.gif


if you unplug the isc it will be in the closed position..
and if you unplug the isc it should stall..
maybe the base idle is to high??

another thing you can try is, make a new gasket for the isc and make the air bypass holes in the gasket smaller.
so the isc will still work but its rpm range will be restricted..= lower idle when isc is fully open...
this worked for me!
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TROYMAN
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2008 11:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sorry guys..i just noticed this thread was refering to v8..

so what i just wrote was refering to a 6 cyl..

isnt the v8 isc a electric stepper motor??
where as the 6 is a air bypass valve..
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xhxrsix
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 6:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

how do i set the auto tps? is it done the same as the other one?
my car thinks i have 3/4 throttle all the time so it holds onto the gears for too long. like in kickdown mode....
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XH5LWEPN
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

xhxrsix wrote:
how do i set the auto tps? is it done the same as the other one?
my car thinks i have 3/4 throttle all the time so it holds onto the gears for too long. like in kickdown mode....


Yep, exactly the same.
Its abit tricky to do them both mate, you will definately need at least one mate helping you, two is even better.
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xhxrsix
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 9:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ah cool thanks mate.
love your ute btw, its nice as!
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XR9UTE
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 11:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TROYMAN wrote:
sorry guys..i just noticed this thread was refering to v8..

so what i just wrote was refering to a 6 cyl..

isnt the v8 isc a electric stepper motor??
where as the 6 is a air bypass valve..


Nope, both are the same....spring loaded solenoid valves that are PWM'd by the EEC. Ford doesn't use steppers....good thing too I say icon_biggrin.gif
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