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Advise on Panel & Paint up and going again
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nlbxr6
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 07, 2008 4:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

david5 wrote:
Where can I get replacement stripes for my XD S Pack ? The ones that go over the wheel arches.

Cheers David

Ask your local panel shop who they use for any stripes and decals or else a signwriter if you dont have a stripe guy in town
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jet_pilot
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 10:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

g'day when i brought my car it had water based overspray (look's likely to be from a roller) on it and am wanting to know what the easiest way to get this off without damaging the paint job it cover's nearly one whole side of the car
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nlbxr6
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What Model and year is your car?
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jet_pilot
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 2:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

92 ebII mate not sure of paint colour its a mettallic medium blue
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nlbxr6
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jet_pilot wrote:
92 ebII mate not sure of paint colour its a mettallic medium blue

Try 3M or Maguires overspray clay if that doesnt work you will need to have it removed by a machine buff & polish
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SammY
Fordmods Stock as a Rock



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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 9:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gday mate,

Just wanted to know how much i would roughly be looking at paying for a carryboy canopy for a ba xr6 ute to be resprayed from congo green to rapid (yellow).

And is it much more expensive for them to remove all the trims compared to just masking it up instead?

CHeers in advance,
Sam.
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nlbxr6
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SammY wrote:
Gday mate,

Just wanted to know how much i would roughly be looking at paying for a carryboy canopy for a ba xr6 ute to be resprayed from congo green to rapid (yellow).

And is it much more expensive for them to remove all the trims compared to just masking it up instead?

CHeers in advance,
Sam.

Look at anywhere up to $1000 inc removing all necc trims etc
If you want the paint to stick properly I would pay the extra to have all trims etc removed.
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EF_STOCKO
Fordmods Stock as a Rock



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2008 1:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi mate,

I am looking at painting my EF at home. I have been looking into it, and have seen that acrylic seems to be the most user friendly.

Now I am pretty cluey with the prepping and so forth, but I was just wondering if you could clarify the following.

1. After prep work, and applying grease remover and so on, how many coates of undercoat do you apply? and what is the interval between layers?

2. Do you wet sand the final undercoat with 1800+ grit paper before applying?

3. How many layers of the metallic paint do you usually apply? I am looking for a metallic greenish/grey colour, have seen a few samples.

4. Do we do a light wet sand before clear coat?

5. Same again for the clear? Last time I did clear it dried with a powdery surface. Can you tell me what I was doing wrong?

6. At what point do we buffer he finish? After the clear or beforehand? Do we use any product when buffering or just simply use a buffing wheel of some sort?

7. What is a safe thinners:acrylic ratio when applying paint?

I really appreciate this thread mate. Already been very helpful.

Cheers
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nlbxr6
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EF_STOCKO wrote:
Hi mate,

I am looking at painting my EF at home. I have been looking into it, and have seen that acrylic seems to be the most user friendly.

Now I am pretty cluey with the prepping and so forth, but I was just wondering if you could clarify the following.


Quote:
1. After prep work, and applying grease remover and so on, how many coates of undercoat do you apply? and what is the interval between layers?


3-4 allowing enough time to flash off 10-15 minutes

Quote:
2. Do you wet sand the final undercoat with 1800+ grit paper before applying?


Start with 320 finish with 800

Quote:
3. How many layers of the metallic paint do you usually apply? I am looking for a metallic greenish/grey colour, have seen a few samples.


As many as you need to cover the primer usually 3-4

Quote:
4. Do we do a light wet sand before clear coat?


only if you have any imperfections you want to tidy up

Quote:
5. Same again for the clear? Last time I did clear it dried with a powdery surface. Can you tell me what I was doing wrong?


Either the day was to hot or your mix ratio was incorrect.

Quote:
6. At what point do we buffer he finish? After the clear or beforehand? Do we use any product when buffering or just simply use a buffing wheel of some sort?


After the clear has dried wet rub with 1500 the buff with a good quality cutting compound and buffing wheel

Quote:
7. What is a safe thinners:acrylic ratio when applying paint?


Depending on outside temp etc around about 60/40

Quote:
I really appreciate this thread mate. Already been very helpful.


Check out this site for all your basic knowledge
http://www.autobody101.com/

Cheers
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EF_STOCKO
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 5:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey mate,

That is excellent. Thanks very much for the answers.

Will post a thread when its all done, with hopefully some good results.

Cheers
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brentos
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

just a quick question, if my car as damaged in a carparkand keyed etc on all panels nkeeping in mind this will be an insurance claim

1 would they just try to fix those key marks or would they repaint every panel???

2 when they quote to fix this sort of stuff do they quote to get out little shopping trolly dints etc, or is it straight over the top

3 if they dont allow for the above work what would someone be looking at spending to get little dents taken out and sprayed again, same colour with a blue pearl???

thanks for you help
Brentos
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nlbxr6
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2008 12:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry abouit the delay
The assessor should advise you which way they will go but I would only allow the prep of they key scratches and the paint.I would then advise you to talk to the panel shop and get a quote for the dentss.Without looking at the car and seeing the dents i couldnt give an accurate price but if they are only small dents and say about 5 or 6 per panel look at about $1oo per panel.What Insurance company
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brentos
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2008 9:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aami, donno if that a good thing or not, and yeah by dints i mean small like little door dints here and there, roof, boot and bonet is all fine
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nlbxr6
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2008 12:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Discuss your options with the assessor and then talk to the panel shop about what you want
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brentos
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2008 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

no worries thanks mate
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EF_STOCKO
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 21, 2008 6:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi mate,

Just did a home paint job on an old falcon using Metallic acrylic paint.

The base colour went down great, not a problem to be had. But I think I have wrecked the clear.

When painting the clear, I had 25psi gun pressure, and used 1.5 part thinners to 1 part clear. I used the same fan spread as with the base colour, and sprayed about 20cm to the surface. Anyone know what I have done wrong? Temp was about 24 degrees.

I did a couple of layers, allowing flash dry, and it has finished to a rough-ish patchy texture. After the flash dry If i wiped my hand over the surface there was a powdery texture.

I got the buffer out and did a fender and it came up ok-ish, but took a lot of work to get there.

My question is, If I lightly wet sand it back, and then apply a few more (Wetter) layers of clear, will I get a nice consistent shine?

Cheers
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nlbxr6
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 22, 2008 10:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

EF_STOCKO wrote:
Hi mate,

Just did a home paint job on an old falcon using Metallic acrylic paint.

The base colour went down great, not a problem to be had. But I think I have wrecked the clear.

When painting the clear, I had 25psi gun pressure, and used 1.5 part thinners to 1 part clear. I used the same fan spread as with the base colour, and sprayed about 20cm to the surface. Anyone know what I have done wrong? Temp was about 24 degrees.

I did a couple of layers, allowing flash dry, and it has finished to a rough-ish patchy texture. After the flash dry If i wiped my hand over the surface there was a powdery texture.

I got the buffer out and did a fender and it came up ok-ish, but took a lot of work to get there.

My question is, If I lightly wet sand it back, and then apply a few more (Wetter) layers of clear, will I get a nice consistent shine?

Cheers


Sounds like a bit too much pressure and not enough thinners.This will give you a dry rough effect.
Give the clear a wet rub with 1500 and then buff it
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syko4d
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 6:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey mate i just brought a second hand bodykit for my eb falcon and the front bar doesnt sit in properly

its a 3/4 cover so its supposed to sit in the groove but it doesnt and it sticks out a little bit on the corners how do i fix it or what did i do wrong?

the side skirts are exactly the same the just wont sit on rite ?
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EFFII
Fordmods - Getting Side Ways



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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2008 10:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Im painting the weather strips on my car, i did one for a test and the paint wont dry? Its dry just sticky. I left it over night and its still sticky.
Help?
I didnt sand the strip as i felt there was no need i gave it a clean but thats about it.
Should i have sanded it first? If so 1200 grade good?
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nlbxr6
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2008 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

syko4d wrote:
hey mate i just brought a second hand bodykit for my eb falcon and the front bar doesnt sit in properly

its a 3/4 cover so its supposed to sit in the groove but it doesnt and it sticks out a little bit on the corners how do i fix it or what did i do wrong?

the side skirts are exactly the same the just wont sit on rite ?


The trick with a/market fibreglass kits is time and patience when prefitting.You will need to remove material in some areas and add in other areas.Sorry but there is no easy fix just a bit of mucking around to get it right
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