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Jim Mock Cams and chain / engine rattle?
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markr154
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 5:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another suggestion ...DOUBLING-UP on my AU MLS head gaskets?
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fritzz
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 9:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

see if BPT can modify the tensioner for you so it puts the correct tension on the chain.

Last edited by fritzz on Fri Aug 15, 2008 10:40 pm, edited 1 time in total
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galapogos01
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 9:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

arm79, do you have pictures of the shims you have put on the tensioner?

i dont believe this problem is specific to JMM cams, it will happen with any cam that has a steep profile when using stiff valve springs.
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markr154
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fritzz wrote:
see if BPT can modify the tension for you so it puts the correct tension on the chain.


Thanks mate ...I'm pretty sure that's what they'll do.

Jim Mock suggested that they use a couple of washers to do just that.
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arm79
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 11:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

galapogos01 wrote:
arm79, do you have pictures of the shims you have put on the tensioner?

i dont believe this problem is specific to JMM cams, it will happen with any cam that has a steep profile when using stiff valve springs.


No I dont. They were just washers about 1mm thick. Cant remember if I put 2 or 3 in there. My understanding is the chain should have no more than 2mm deflection on the cam sprocket when its resting. So I followed that guideline.

And yes, its more a cam profile and spring issue than the cam. Could happen with any cam.
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Waggin
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 11:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

balizticbobo wrote:

Please feel free to correct me if i'm wrong, but aren't most Dev5's out there complete engine rebuilds?


Nope, they're just reco head packages.
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markr154
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2008 12:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DEV 5 is..

"DEV "Street-Fighter" Headers (Extractors), Modified Cat, 2.5" Hi-Performance mandrel bent exhaust system, Hi-Flow Intake Kit, DEV5 Cam kit, valve train modifcations, Vernier adjustable Timing Gear. "Race-Series" Head, extensive porting and head performance alterations to race standard, compression increase and Special valve springs. All installed with new gaskets & seals. Top class Performance Street package also suits Street / Strip use with excellent fuel economy"
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galapogos01
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2008 9:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

arm79 wrote:

No I dont. They were just washers about 1mm thick. Cant remember if I put 2 or 3 in there. My understanding is the chain should have no more than 2mm deflection on the cam sprocket when its resting. So I followed that guideline.

And yes, its more a cam profile and spring issue than the cam. Could happen with any cam.


thanks mate.

where did you stick them? you put them between the removable tensioner part (for want of a better name) and the piston (the only place I can think to put them), right?

I suppose that wouldnt interfere with the spring lock mechanism as when you unlock the tensioner (which springs out where the washers would sit) you have the removable part out.

Might give this a try. My old tensioner was jammed (metal filings around the piston, had to hammer it out), and I used to get a clack only when cold and only from 1500 to 2000rpm. Now with a new tensioner it will do it when hot also - but its a lot less noticeable. 1mm of washer might be enough.
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arm79
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 4:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

galapogos01 wrote:
arm79 wrote:

No I dont. They were just washers about 1mm thick. Cant remember if I put 2 or 3 in there. My understanding is the chain should have no more than 2mm deflection on the cam sprocket when its resting. So I followed that guideline.

And yes, its more a cam profile and spring issue than the cam. Could happen with any cam.


thanks mate.

where did you stick them? you put them between the removable tensioner part (for want of a better name) and the piston (the only place I can think to put them), right?

I suppose that wouldnt interfere with the spring lock mechanism as when you unlock the tensioner (which springs out where the washers would sit) you have the removable part out.

Might give this a try. My old tensioner was jammed (metal filings around the piston, had to hammer it out), and I used to get a clack only when cold and only from 1500 to 2000rpm. Now with a new tensioner it will do it when hot also - but its a lot less noticeable. 1mm of washer might be enough.


I ended up putting them between the left end of the spring and that little removable metal thing (f**k if I know what its called) that the allen key goes into.

I didnt want to put them down the other end for fear of them getting crushed or damaged by the piston and outer retainer and actually causing the tensioner to lock. But then I didnt use perfectly sized washers. I couldnt find them.

But it seems to have done the trick for the past 6 months.
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galapogos01
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 10:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mark, did you get anywhere with this?

after leaving mine rattle for 1000km (with a new tensioner - markedly worse than when the tensioner was jammed open), its gone and broken the passenger side guide on me. so its back off with the timing cover to fit a new chain and guides this time.

hope like f**k it doesnt do it again after this - would appreciate any more advice on shims/springs in the chain tensioner or other tricks (i am thinking something attached to the guide where the piston runs?) otherwise will use the washers mentioned above...

Jason
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gogetta
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

check the filter in the tensioner
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galapogos01
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

filter is clean.

new guide kit, shimmed up new tensioner (3x1mm washers), brand new chain -- still got the noise. The new chain was about 1cm shorter than the old, and the old guides were pretty worn. i thought it was going to be perfect, but alas...

i am running jmm springs, i think i will try crow doubles perhaps. running out of options. hope it hasnt snapped the passenger side guide already, f**k if i have to go through that for a 4th time.
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gogetta
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 9:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1cm stretch...wow thats a lot!!!
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galapogos01
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 10:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

car had 270,000km on it. no other problems (until i fitted the jmm springs).
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edfairmont4.0
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

JMM is f**k rubbish. I THINK they have a high lift short duration cam that causes harsh backlash.... f**k it off get and get a real cam...

http://www.camtechcams.com.au/cat/forde6.html

Ive ordered the CT830.
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galapogos01
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 11:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think its spring related. Im not using a JMM cam - I have a Wade 1521a - but im using JMM springs. The cam has 0.524' lift at the valve.

The specs of the springs I know of are:

CROW 7739 - 90lb
CROW 7738 - 110lb
CROW 7333 - 125lb (doubles)

Does anyone know how many pound the JMM springs are and what a minimum would be for a cam with that much lift? What are others with cams of similar lift running?
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 11:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

edfairmont4.0 wrote:
JMM is f**k rubbish. I THINK they have a high lift short duration cam that causes harsh backlash.... f**k it off get and get a real cam...

http://www.camtechcams.com.au/cat/forde6.html

Ive ordered the CT830.


carefull.... with a lower revving, relatively low comp engine you dont want too much duration. Mal and they boys @ Camtech are great, and dont get me wrong, they do have good grinds, but for a std rev range <10:1 comp 6cylinder, I wouldnt go much over 225* @ 0.050, & make up the rest of your AUC window with lift.

Just my 2c
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edfairmont4.0
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 30, 2008 2:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jaysen wrote:
edfairmont4.0 wrote:
JMM is f**k rubbish. I THINK they have a high lift short duration cam that causes harsh backlash.... f**k it off get and get a real cam...

http://www.camtechcams.com.au/cat/forde6.html

Ive ordered the CT830.


carefull.... with a lower revving, relatively low comp engine you dont want too much duration. Mal and they boys @ Camtech are great, and dont get me wrong, they do have good grinds, but for a std rev range <10:1 comp 6cylinder, I wouldnt go much over 225* @ 0.050, & make up the rest of your AUC window with lift.

Just my 2c


My motor is fully rebuilt with 10:1 compression, and a 360HP flowing head.... The engine shop convinced me that was the cam of choice for my setup and engine. I will revving my engine to 6200.
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