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| Bassfreak55 |
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Yet another couple of questions regarding my 98 EL Falcon:
Q1. What are the symptoms of a torque converted that is on it's way out? Q2. Can worn wheel bearings cause rotor warpage? |
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| scotty2611 |
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Worn wheel bearings can cause a shudder, not really warp the rotors, unless its been doing it from some time,
If you jack up the front of the car, and place jack stands under it ( Saftey ) grab hold of the top and bottom of the wheel and wobble the wheel, A tiny bit of movement is ok, but anything in excess it not good,
_________________ EB 2,Turbo EL Motor, Momo Wheel, Cam, Fuel preasure reg, LSD, Color coded boot garnish 17" wheels, Lowered, Shift kit, Slotted & cross Drilled Brakes, AU fuel injectors, & more to come |
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| Bassfreak55 |
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scotty2611 wrote: Worn wheel bearings can cause a shudder, not really warp the rotors, unless its been doing it from some time I've actually replaced all four rotors and pads due to severe shudder, although about 2 weeks after fitting these, the violent shudder has returned... So possibly wheel bearings in this instance? |
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| scotty2611 |
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Is it happening all the time or is it only at certain times,
Check your Tie Rods, and rack ends, but do check the adjustment of the bearings, what where they like when you did the brakes, Did you replace the seals, as they are hard to get out of the old rotors
_________________ EB 2,Turbo EL Motor, Momo Wheel, Cam, Fuel preasure reg, LSD, Color coded boot garnish 17" wheels, Lowered, Shift kit, Slotted & cross Drilled Brakes, AU fuel injectors, & more to come |
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| Bassfreak55 |
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scotty2611 wrote: Is it happening all the time or is it only at certain times, Check your Tie Rods, and rack ends, but do check the adjustment of the bearings, what where they like when you did the brakes, Did you replace the seals, as they are hard to get out of the old rotors It happens all the time - the faster the speed I brake at, the more vigorous the shuddering is. I checked the bearings when I replaced the rotors and they appeared fine. The new rotors spun freely on the old bearings without any noise or play. Seals? I just removed the old rotors and replaced them with the new ones?! |
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| scotty2611 |
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If you check the old rotors you may of forgotten the seals mate, as they press into the rotors bearing hub its self,
_________________ EB 2,Turbo EL Motor, Momo Wheel, Cam, Fuel preasure reg, LSD, Color coded boot garnish 17" wheels, Lowered, Shift kit, Slotted & cross Drilled Brakes, AU fuel injectors, & more to come |
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| Bassfreak55 |
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scotty2611 wrote: If you check the old rotors you may of forgotten the seals mate, as they press into the rotors bearing hub its self, Hmmm, that's not good! Would that cause any damage? Or would it be as simple as fitting new seals and putting it all back together? |
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| scotty2611 |
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It all depends,
What kind of driving conditions have you been driving in, did you repack the bearings with grease Just as a case of being safer than sorry, I would just fit new wheel bearing kits, You are wanting 2 x WBK1166 These are complete wheel bearing kits, and RRP is $25.99 from you local Repco Auto Parts Store, Go and get some new grease as well, I use and recommed using Wynns Ultra Supreame Grease, its the nuts guts when it comes to grease as it also have a friction proofing in it as well, I did my wheel bearings about 6 Years ago, and when I checked them a few weeks ago they are still like new Scotty
_________________ EB 2,Turbo EL Motor, Momo Wheel, Cam, Fuel preasure reg, LSD, Color coded boot garnish 17" wheels, Lowered, Shift kit, Slotted & cross Drilled Brakes, AU fuel injectors, & more to come |
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| Bassfreak55 |
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scotty2611 wrote: It all depends, What kind of driving conditions have you been driving in, did you repack the bearings with greasethe nuts guts when it comes to grease as it also have a friction proofing in it as well I don't at all thrash the car around, nor do I brake late/hard. So the car is driven pretty easily. I checked the bearings and they appeared to be in good condition and well-greased, so I didn't bother repacking them. Also, should I replace the rear wheel bearings also? If so, what part numbers would you recommend? I assume this would be an axle-out job - would this be expensive? :-/ There is a violent shudder from the rear under braking also - I isolated the rear brakes by attempting to brake lightly with the handbrake, which resulted in a violent shudder. |
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| scotty2611 |
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If the rears are ok I would not change them, Are they making any noise,
for the case of the from its not being driven hard or anything, Its the dirt and grim from where you drive thats the issue, I would recommend just replacing the front bearings, as the price is a cheap insurance, When you buy new rotors the outer bearing shells come with the new rotors, and putting new outer shells with old inners, it can cause issues, If you want the part number for the rears let me know,
_________________ EB 2,Turbo EL Motor, Momo Wheel, Cam, Fuel preasure reg, LSD, Color coded boot garnish 17" wheels, Lowered, Shift kit, Slotted & cross Drilled Brakes, AU fuel injectors, & more to come |
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| Bassfreak55 |
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There is a faint high-pitched noise coming from the rear, although wasn't too sure whether it was the bearings or diff?
I'm in Canberra, so the roads are relatively clean etc I've just bough myself a pair of the front wheel bearings you suggested above from Repco, and will have them changed tomorrow when the brakes are being checked by the mob thy supplied the rotors amd pads (ADB in Marrickville, Sydney). |
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| cjh |
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Have you changed your brake fluid lately???
Did you check your brake caliper slides and plates??? Did you have the correct preload on the front wheel bearings???
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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