Fordmods Logo

ABS EL brake bleeding problems 

 

Page 1 of 1 [ 13 posts ] 

 
 Post subject: ABS EL brake bleeding problems
Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2007 5:49 pm 
Parts Gopher
Offline

Age: 40

Posts: 51

Joined: 10th Mar 2005

Gallery: 1 images

Ride: Falcon Futura EL

Location: Sydney
NSW, Australia

Hi Guys,

Decided to replace the fluid in the Falcon today, looks like dirty water! So I followed the typical procedure, removed fluid from resoviour and replace with new fluid. Then started at the rear left, open nipple, pedal down, close nipple, pedal up. Problem is everytime I open the nipple the fluid in the pipe returns to the caliper. Got my girlfriend to start pressing before I opened... no help. So I thought my girlfriend was doing something wrong :) and I got one of the one man bleeding kits... still no luck. Sometimes it is hard to press the pedal down and other times it will just drop to the floor (with the nipple wide open). I tried with the ignition on as well. I must be missing something as I've never had a problem bleeding brakes before :?

Now the (!) light on the dash is on (pressure differential failure?) and the pedal is very spongy... what a way to waste an arvo, please help!

Jez
Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2007 5:58 pm 
Oompa Loompa
Offline

Age: 36

Posts: 48

Joined: 19th May 2006

Ride: BF GT-P

Location: Wodonga
VIC, Australia

Before you open the nipple you need to pump the pedal a few times, hold pressure on it, open nipple, let the pedal sink (but not all the way to the floor as you may damage the seals in the master cylinder if it is worn), close the nipple, pump the pedal up again and repeat until clean fluid comes through. The light has come on because you have sucked air into the system and the spongy pedal feel is the air compressing.

 

_________________

THERE'S NOTHING SO GREAT AS A THUMPING V8

Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2007 7:59 pm 
Technical Contributor
Offline
User avatar

Age: 53

Posts: 5589

Joined: 14th Jan 2005

Gallery: 10 images

Ride: 96 XH/97 EL

Location: South Coast
NSW, Australia

You don't mention if you've tried bleeding from another bleeder, e.g. rear RHS. If not see if there is a difference.
If you haven't bled the system for a long time, there may be crap buildup in the bleeder nipple holes.
So you'll need to remove them and put a drill piece through them (by hand).
Grab some hose pinchers from Supercrap Auto or where ever, to limit your fluid loss.

 

_________________

96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl
97 EL Futura S/W: LPG, Alarm, LED int Lts, Trip Comp, F/Lane Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl, T5 Conversion

Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 10:19 am 
Parts Gopher
Offline

Age: 40

Posts: 51

Joined: 10th Mar 2005

Gallery: 1 images

Ride: Falcon Futura EL

Location: Sydney
NSW, Australia

xbcoupe351 wrote:
Before you open the nipple you need to pump the pedal a few times, hold pressure on it, open nipple, let the pedal sink


Ok that makes sense, thanks I'll give that a try today.

xbcoupe351 wrote:
The light has come on because you have sucked air into the system


Out of interest how does the light work?
Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 10:21 am 
Parts Gopher
Offline

Age: 40

Posts: 51

Joined: 10th Mar 2005

Gallery: 1 images

Ride: Falcon Futura EL

Location: Sydney
NSW, Australia

snap0964 wrote:
You don't mention if you've tried bleeding from another bleeder, e.g. rear RHS. If not see if there is a difference.


Yeah I pulled the bleed nipple of first thing to check it out, all good.
Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 1:43 pm 
Parts Gopher
Offline

Age: 40

Posts: 51

Joined: 10th Mar 2005

Gallery: 1 images

Ride: Falcon Futura EL

Location: Sydney
NSW, Australia

xbcoupe351 wrote:
Before you open the nipple you need to pump the pedal a few times, hold pressure on it, open nipple, let the pedal sink


Tried it, no luck. I think the master cylinder may be damaged. A week ago I got in the car and the pedal sunk to the floor, I pumped it a few times and it seemed to be ok... I thought it needed a bleed but maybe it is worse than that.

J
Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 11:10 pm 
Stock as a Rock
Offline

Age: 63

Posts: 168

Joined: 31st Oct 2006

Ride: 4.0 EL/dads taxi

Location: Kingaroy
QLD, Australia

After closing nipple SLOWLY bring pedal back up as just letting it come straight up can allow air to bypass calliper/master cylinder seals.
Pump pedal and hold down, release nipple, close nipple, slowly allow pedal to come up, pump again,.....next wheel....next ...next...then go round again.

 

_________________

The thunder of .05 will echoe around Bathurst for ever.

Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Wed May 02, 2007 10:20 pm 
Oompa Loompa
Offline

Age: 36

Posts: 48

Joined: 19th May 2006

Ride: BF GT-P

Location: Wodonga
VIC, Australia

rallyboy77 wrote:
xbcoupe351 wrote:
The light has come on because you have sucked air into the system


Out of interest how does the light work?


There are two pressure sensors (from memory there at the master cylinder) one for each side of the braking system if the pressure difference in each side is out of spec it will turn the light on.

 

_________________

THERE'S NOTHING SO GREAT AS A THUMPING V8

Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Wed May 02, 2007 10:24 pm 
Oompa Loompa
Offline

Age: 36

Posts: 48

Joined: 19th May 2006

Ride: BF GT-P

Location: Wodonga
VIC, Australia

rallyboy77 wrote:
I think the master cylinder may be damaged. A week ago I got in the car and the pedal sunk to the floor, I pumped it a few times and it seemed to be ok... I thought it needed a bleed but maybe it is worse than that.

J


Check if there is signs of brake fluid running down the brake booster (paint will be peeling off) This will indicate leaking master cylinder. Also check each wheel for leaking calipers.

 

_________________

THERE'S NOTHING SO GREAT AS A THUMPING V8

Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Wed May 02, 2007 10:28 pm 
Getting Side Ways
Offline
User avatar

Age: 40

Posts: 1667

Joined: 23rd Dec 2004

Gallery: 1 images

Ride: Boosted ED XR6, EBII Mont Wgn

Power: 252 rwkw

Location: Mildura
VIC, Australia

being an ABS system there is a special way to bleed it, it can be a real head f$#k... a ford service centre for advice would be the go...

 

_________________

Image
[SEXYR-6] ED XR6 T5 Turbo Build
[EBW-347] EB Wagon V8 Stroker Build
FordMods Member #1761

Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Wed May 02, 2007 10:42 pm 
Getting Side Ways
Offline
User avatar

Age: 44

Posts: 10126

Joined: 5th Nov 2004

Gallery: 4 images

Ride: EF Gli Ghia, XP Fairmont

Location: Perth
WA, Australia

the only thing with ABS is you need to do the longest wheel first and work back to the shortest ... drivers rear, passenger rear, drivers front, passengers front.

 

_________________

Owning 1 of 67612 EF GLi Sedans made
FACT: "Chuck Norris owns the greatest Poker Face of all-time. It helped him win the 1983 World Series of Poker despite him holding just a Joker, a Get out of Jail Free Monopoly card, a 2 of clubs, 7 of spades and a green #4 card from the game Uno."

Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Thu May 03, 2007 12:09 am 
Technical Contributor
Offline
User avatar

Age: 53

Posts: 5589

Joined: 14th Jan 2005

Gallery: 10 images

Ride: 96 XH/97 EL

Location: South Coast
NSW, Australia

AFAIK, there's no difference in bleeding ABS or Non ABS systems.
Front and rear systems are independent of each other, so it doesn't matter which one is done first, only that both sides of that system are done together, and Longest line to shortest i.e. FL & FR, or RL & RR.

 

_________________

96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl
97 EL Futura S/W: LPG, Alarm, LED int Lts, Trip Comp, F/Lane Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl, T5 Conversion

Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Thu May 03, 2007 9:29 am 
Parts Gopher
Offline

Age: 40

Posts: 51

Joined: 10th Mar 2005

Gallery: 1 images

Ride: Falcon Futura EL

Location: Sydney
NSW, Australia

xbcoupe351 wrote:
Check if there is signs of brake fluid running down the brake booster (paint will be peeling off)


There was a little trickle of fluid coming from the back of the master cylinder. Has now been replaced and all is good. My theory is the master cylinder was on its way out and attempting to bleed it caused one of the seals to fail completely.

Thanks for your help,
J
Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:
Sort by  
 Page 1 of 1  [ 13 posts ] 

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 12 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

 

 

It is currently Sat Dec 16, 2017 3:32 am All times are UTC + 11 hours

 

 

(c)2014 Total Web Solutions Australia - Australian Web Hosting and Domain Names