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| misk_one |
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its not that simple.
you would need to make a micro controller to read the TPS value then output another value - ie. input is 2v, output=3v, tps input at 4v may need an output of 3.5v. even if by some chance you could rig it up without a micro controller, the voltage would need to match to a certain degree as the changes to make the shift more firm are so small.
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| 89.SVO |
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Age: 34 Posts: 3379 Joined: 11th Mar 2008 Ride: EA SVO, AU2, Toyota Crown Location: Bendigo |
misk_one wrote: its not that simple. you would need to make a micro controller to read the TPS value then output another value - ie. input is 2v, output=3v, tps input at 4v may need an output of 3.5v. even if by some chance you could rig it up without a micro controller, the voltage would need to match to a certain degree as the changes to make the shift more firm are so small. someone with figure it out 
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| 89.SVO |
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Age: 34 Posts: 3379 Joined: 11th Mar 2008 Ride: EA SVO, AU2, Toyota Crown Location: Bendigo |
dazza027 wrote: Dunno, I dont have an AU anymore, I have an EB ah lol. moved for the better
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| dazza027 |
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WILDEB wrote: dazza027 wrote: Dunno, I dont have an AU anymore, I have an EB ah lol. moved for the better Hell yeah, AU's look s**t unless theyre slammed and kitted. EBs look tough straight off the line. Ford got the shape right, right from the begining. Might have my old AU motor coming back to me soonish though... that should spice the eeeeb up a bit. |
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| 89.SVO |
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Age: 34 Posts: 3379 Joined: 11th Mar 2008 Ride: EA SVO, AU2, Toyota Crown Location: Bendigo |
this is true
_________________ Daily driver: 2010 Toyota Crown hybrid 3.5L V6 hybrid. 254kw. |
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| dazza027 |
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Bit off topic but not really... I have the shift kit with the adjutable pot in it fitted to my car, at the moment its turned right down. The trans has just had a service ie fluid and filter. The shifts have become a bit smoother except for 3rd to 4th which really bangs in hard and then slips a bit in 4th gear. Its the older dip stick style trans with band adjusters on the sides... Is this one of the bands slipping causing this issue? 1-2, 2-3 are both fine.
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| misk_one |
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does it do it both in power and econ mode and under all throttle position and load points?
do you have an EL ECU and/or a J3 chip?
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| dazza027 |
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In both modes. EL ECU is fitted. I have an EL trans here but I dont know if its shagged or not as the car it came from didnt run when I got it. No J3 chip. And yeah, all throttle positions and load points, makes no difference if I lift right off when it shifts it still slams in hard then slips a bit.
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| misk_one |
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its the EL ECU combined with the shift kit i'm pretty sure.
mine does it with the J3 chip i know 100%, but only in econ mode. cant recall if it happens in mine with just the EL ecu as i dont have the shift kit in atm
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| Greenmachine |
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I had a 2 setting electronic kit in my ED before I converted to manual and I'd imagine it would be counterproductive / dangerous to have a setup that shifts quicker / harder at higher loads? - if anything it needs to be the other way round.
I had to be careful on the "hard" setting with mine especially in the wet as it was fine on light / gentle / careful throttle but could be a menace when there was a fair bit of torque being laid down. It was really frustrating because the very quick shifts with "hard" setting made normal driving really nice and made the old beast feel really slick and effortless but as I say caused problems if it got to the point where a fair bit of torque started to be put thru - at which point the softer setting gave it very lively and handy shifting but without being freaking dangerous - but it meant reading what was happening and flicking the switch at the right time - which was very difficult - so in the end I had to either leave it on soft all the time or definitely be careful - ie. stay off the power - on hard. One idea I played with was to have it switch between hard and soft setting via a MAP switch - ie. switch from hard to soft above a certain manifold pressure (ie. a rough way of reading engine load rather than just rpm). I got as far as locating and buying an adjustable MAP switch.
_________________ Sold the Greenmachine - now driving 2015 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk. |
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| dazza027 |
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I had the adjustable pot fitted in the EB untill the weekend, I only pulled it out cos I was getting sick of the bash into top that it kept wanting to do. The box shifts absolutely perfectly without the kit fitted. I dont see why you would want a firm shift at low throttle percentage when you are trying to avoid wheel spin and loss of control in the wet or on corners. Its the opposite that I am after, ie more throttle = firmer shift but variable so that just daily driving (ie less than 50% throttle application) is a firmish shift, firmer than stock anyways, and a gradual increase through the rev range. Im not looking for another TPS and f**k around with micro switchs and s**t like that, I want a potentiometer (adjustable pot for you numbskulls out there) on the other end of the butterfly shaft if possible that works depending on the throttle position. If it is completely off at say 1/4 throttle then fine as long as it is at its maximum at WOT.
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| FordFairmont |
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Posts: 6113 Joined: 8th May 2007 |
i agree with what & why your trying to achieve with this
my car has an adjustable pot setup so it shifts great for everyday driving, however when cruising at low speeds it thumps into gear as there is no speed to absorb it hopefully you find a way around it |
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| Vic |
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FordFairmont wrote: my car has an adjustable pot setup so it shifts great for everyday driving, however when cruising at low speeds it thumps into gear as there is no speed to absorb it Why not just measure the Ω when you set the line pressure low for softer shifting / higher for hard shifting, then install a 2 position switch with two resistors set to those values so that you can just switch between low & high line pressure at will. Should make city driving normal and drag racing a lot of fun.
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| Greenmachine |
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dazza027 wrote: I had the adjustable pot fitted in the EB untill the weekend, I only pulled it out cos I was getting sick of the bash into top that it kept wanting to do. The box shifts absolutely perfectly without the kit fitted. I dont see why you would want a firm shift at low throttle percentage when you are trying to avoid wheel spin and loss of control in the wet or on corners. Its the opposite that I am after, ie more throttle = firmer shift but variable so that just daily driving (ie less than 50% throttle application) is a firmish shift, firmer than stock anyways, and a gradual increase through the rev range. Im not looking for another TPS and f**k around with micro switchs and s**t like that, I want a potentiometer (adjustable pot for you numbskulls out there) on the other end of the butterfly shaft if possible that works depending on the throttle position. If it is completely off at say 1/4 throttle then fine as long as it is at its maximum at WOT. Sorry but what you're saying IMO is actually contradictory. In my experience, without any load on it my kit shifted QUICKLY but not firmly - firmness comes into it with load - and very quick and firm shifting under load was a menace. Under load it was much more manageble with sower shifting and under no load or light load, quick shifting made it feel very smooth and effortless. Are you sure your kit is/was wired in quite right?
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