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Auto to 5spd Coversion cost 

 

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 Post subject: Auto to 5spd Coversion cost
Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 3:30 pm 
Tyre Shredder
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I want to convert my EF from auto to 5spd for the 5 gear on the freeway and was just wanting a rough price on getting all the parts i need (Transmission, electrics, console ect) and just any other facts about the whole job would also be great.

I was talking to a mate (a Holden mechanic :D ) and he said just just get an EA 5spd because that are the same. But i was just talking to a mechanic to get a rough price on getting all this stuff installed and he said that an EA 5spd will fit but i am better of getting an EF one because EFs have a little more grunt then an EA and could cause a problem with 5th gear.
Any one els got any other comments to add to give me a better idea on what to get?

And do people think $500 + any other parts i dont supply like cluch (Ball park Figure) is a fair price for doing the conversion


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Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 3:45 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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hey mate

average price u be looking at to get all the parts will be around the 1 thousand dollar mark

the ef box is computerised where as the ea box isnt " i think"so there would be a little difficulty there but being manula im not quite to sure but i no the auto ef is computerised whereas the e isnt that 1 im definate on

and yes mate getting the whole conversion done for $500 is a good price as most places charge u an average of that price just to change a clutch
so its good yes
but remember a clutch will cost u another hundred

good luck mate

Drifty

 

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Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 3:52 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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later model box (EB2>) has a longer first gear ratio, a 6 bolt clutch and is a slightly tougher gearbox. ea boxes arent necessarily that bad though, fordfreak EF has one i think and he runs low 14s with it.

5th gear on the manuals is pretty close ratio wise to the 4th gear in the auto. you wont see any huge difference in revs.

average price that drifty suggested is pretty close. i am spending that much on my manual conversion by the time i've bought all the little bits and pieces. although i have to freight a lot of parts all around aus.

with the puters, ef auto controller is in the eec, just need a few resistors to trick it into thinking the auto is working. plenty of info on this around the place

 

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Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 4:19 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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nicco wrote:
later model box (EB2>) has a longer first gear ratio, a 6 bolt clutch and is a slightly tougher gearbox. ea boxes arent necessarily that bad though, fordfreak EF has one i think and he runs low 14s with it.

5th gear on the manuals is pretty close ratio wise to the 4th gear in the auto. you wont see any huge difference in revs.

average price that drifty suggested is pretty close. i am spending that much on my manual conversion by the time i've bought all the little bits and pieces. although i have to freight a lot of parts all around aus.

with the puters, ef auto controller is in the eec, just need a few resistors to trick it into thinking the auto is working. plenty of info on this around the place



wll there u go mate
nicco's got it pretty much spot on
well done
:P

i just wasnt sure bout the manual computer
but did no about the autos

have u purchased the conversion yet?

cheers
Drifty

 

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Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 3:24 am 
Tyre Shredder
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No i have not got anything yet. my mater also suggested that i try find a cheap EA 5spd get all i need. but right now i am just looking at a price.
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Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 2:22 pm 
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ive got the EA 5spd in mine, it revs alot higher than the auto did at 100. i got my ea manual for 270, they usually go for about 500 though.

 

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Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 3:00 pm 
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put aside at least $1000 aside for someone to do the conversion...better make that $1500 to be safe.

If you are sourcing the stuff yourself. You'll be looking at $300 - 500 for the box depending on model and condition. New clutch kit will set you back about $300 or more depending on what you get. You'll need a clutch cable which is about $80 from Ford. New spigot bearing will be about $20 - 30. A couple of resistors to trick the Auto ECU will be no more then $2. Pedal box depends if they are available...but I say maybe $50, if not get a MalWood pin which I am unsure of price but pricey. Need a clutch pedal if you can source one out. Bell housing which will probably come with the box (hopefully), if not then you're looking at maybe another $50 - 100 or more. If you want a Manual ECU, it'll be at the $300 mark...but you don't need to get the $2 worth of resistors. You can also get a wiring loom if you want...prices can vary. I think that's all that is needed.

A lot of work and labour involved for a mechanic so I would expect a $1200 - 1500 complete installment cost.

Would be much cheaper if you do it yourself.

phong =P~

 

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Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 6:03 pm 
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malwood pin as of early this year was $112 from memory delivered. my install with new heavy duty clutch kit and new spigot bearing was about 800 all up, including tricking the ecu. if you have got the time and tools do it urself.

 

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Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 6:36 pm 
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i had the conversion done recently heres what it cost. i had everything new or reco. i also saved alot doing the pedal box myself

xr6 manuel computer and gearbox and pedalbox$1000
heavy clutch - $250
clutch cable and spiggot bearing - $120 i think
flywheel - $90
I dropped my car off the the gearbox and diff shop and here is wat they did for $1350
new rear main seal.
clean and inspect gearbox, replace 1st 2nd syncro front rear bearings and all seals.
install fully reconditioned lsd centre.
machine flywheel, wire up reverse and neutral switchs
its alot cheaper to do the pedal box yourself, and its easy.
save the time and the money and have your gearbox looked at, ive seen too many ppl buy borken gearboxs from dodge wreckers
hope it helps. the cost for the lsd itself was 500 so minus that

 

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Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 1:37 am 
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the overdrive in the auto is actually longer mate, you will see more revs on the highway in the manual at 100ks with the same diffs. iirc the auto is somewhere around 0.68:1, and the manual is 0.73:1. but the manual is better for overtaking, having closer ratio's so that around 100 a drop to fourth, around 70-80 a drop to 3rd etc. having that extra cog and shorter first makes a falc feel 40kw stronger.

 

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