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BA brake disc replament 

 

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 Post subject: BA brake disc replament
Posted: Mon Mar 27, 2006 10:52 pm 
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Hi guys

After her 75k service, I've been told that I need to replace the brake pads, with a quote of over $300 to do all wheels.

I was going to replace them myself using the Ferodo?? pads from s**t auto. $80 total cost.

The Q : Is there much difference replacing BA pads compaired to an EA? They don't make a service manual yet as far as I can tell.

After having a look at the suspension, it almost looks identical anyway.

Tips, Advice greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
Luke

 

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Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2006 12:21 pm 
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Without looking at one. Most brake pads are changed in the same manner.

Remove master cylinder cap.
Remove Caliper from steering knuckle.
Press piston/s back into caliper while watching level rise in master cylinder, DO NOT LET OVERFLOW.
Replace Pads.
Replace calipers.
Refit Master Cylinder cap.

 

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Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2006 1:51 pm 
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Yeah, I figured as much, hopefully the BAs are pretty standard to replace.

 

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Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2006 2:16 pm 
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are your brakes shuddering? Ford have been replacing discs and pads with an upgraded variety for some time now.
are you sure that price was $300 front and rear? as new Ford front pads are over $200 alone.

 

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Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2006 3:05 pm 
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You should be able to purchase a ba workshop manual no worries from your ford dealership, there always good to have

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 29, 2006 1:16 pm 
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unless you want to wreck your g clamp, i recomend using two on the front.
and you only need to undo one of the bolts, 13mm i think, on the front calipers as it will just swing up or down depending on which bolt you removed.

to remove disks you will need to undo the two inner 15mm, for au2&3, bolts on the back of the hub and lift off the entire caliper and base, then disk just falls off as the bearing is a sealed type.

 

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Posted: Thu Mar 30, 2006 3:34 pm 
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dvyvan wrote:
You should be able to purchase a ba workshop manual no worries from your ford dealership, there always good to have


I believe they are somewhere between $770 and $1000, depending on how nice you are to the dealer.

No more cheapies like the EF/EL books.
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Posted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 12:44 am 
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RRP is $900ish for BA workshop manual... be careful of cheap pads in early BA's.. may cause more brake shudder
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Posted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 8:24 am 
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Nah, Im not getting any shudder...

Idealy, Im supposed to get my car serviced where I bought it 2nd hand from a mitsubishi dealer. They quoted me just over $300 to replace the front and rear brake pads for the BA including labour.

I've been told they are getting low, and Id believe it, so Id rather just do it myself, and save a few $$$ as I used to do em on the EA I previously owned.

Last time I did it I took out both retaining bolts, pressed the inner shoe in to loosen, and took the caliper off... I figured its probably not much different.

ALSO... Msman what is this G clamp you talk of?

Cheers!

 

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Posted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 10:33 pm 
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If you are interested I can get you a copy of a BA manual for a fraction of the price. email jeff.g@three.com.au
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Posted: Sat Apr 01, 2006 2:04 pm 
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i prefer to use a g clamp to press the piston back in,
http://www.justtools.com.au/prod513.htm

because the ba has twin piston calipers you can either leave the the old pad in there and put the clamp on an angle in the centre, which will bend it or use two one for each piston.

if you have the proper tool then just use that, i don't like them personally can't find a strong one for a decent price.

 

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Posted: Sat Apr 01, 2006 3:24 pm 
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madmax wrote:
Without looking at one. Most brake pads are changed in the same manner.

Remove master cylinder cap.
Remove Caliper from steering knuckle.
Press piston/s back into caliper while watching level rise in master cylinder, DO NOT LET OVERFLOW.
Replace Pads.
Replace calipers.
Refit Master Cylinder cap.

AND don't forget to pump up the brakes before going on the road

 

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Posted: Sun Apr 02, 2006 9:12 pm 
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GTBob wrote:
madmax wrote:
Without looking at one. Most brake pads are changed in the same manner.

Remove master cylinder cap.
Remove Caliper from steering knuckle.
Press piston/s back into caliper while watching level rise in master cylinder, DO NOT LET OVERFLOW.
Replace Pads.
Replace calipers.
Refit Master Cylinder cap.

AND don't forget to pump up the brakes before going on the road



Fair call, I was only giving a brief outline though.

 

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Posted: Sat Apr 08, 2006 5:28 am 
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Just a quick one, what is the correct tool for pressing the pistons back???

I know my mate used a flat bladed screwdriver on a Proton once... but they were small pads.

What makes pushing the pistons in so hard? Is there a one way valve? And is the system different as its ABS?

Cheers!

 

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Posted: Sat Apr 08, 2006 9:25 am 
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Lukieman wrote:
Just a quick one, what is the correct tool for pressing the pistons back???

I know my mate used a flat bladed screwdriver on a Proton once... but they were small pads.

What makes pushing the pistons in so hard? Is there a one way valve? And is the system different as its ABS?

Cheers!


Thers no one-way valve. Its just trying to push all the fluid back up thin brake lines back to the master cylinder that makes it hard.
There is a proper piston compressor, but most people just use a 'G' clamp.

 

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