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Posted: Tue May 17, 2005 6:43 pm 
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joolz wrote:
Electroboy i should know what im talking about as im a supervisor/quality officer at the factory that makes the driveshafts for ford.......
The vent hole stops the aluminuim weld frow blowing out as the shafts builds up pressure during welding.
Yes i have driven in water but i dont use my car as a boat!!


Ahh is that why we have so many problems with our cars, and people like you run and hide when s**t hits the fan, can see why ford has a large recall rate now!!!!!!

 

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Posted: Tue May 17, 2005 6:53 pm 
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I'm going with joolz's explanation about tailshaft holes - seeing as it's his job to know! Electroboy, don't bother arguing this one!

 

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Posted: Tue May 17, 2005 6:57 pm 
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Vic wrote:
I'm going with joolz's explanation about tailshaft holes - seeing as it's his job to know! Electroboy, don't bother arguing this one!


i don't need to considering the screwup rate at the factory

 

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Posted: Tue May 17, 2005 8:55 pm 
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i doubt you have even been any of the ford plants or spoken to any of the QA people there, so please make sure you know what your talking about before giving people advise.
The poor guy could have removed the shaft to try and drain water and to no gain what so ever.
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Posted: Tue May 17, 2005 10:52 pm 
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joolz wrote:
i doubt you have even been any of the ford plants or spoken to any of the QA people there, so please make sure you know what your talking about before giving people advise.
.


I don't need to know about the ford QA process, i own enough company cars to know how these vehicles fail with many faults some of which you have never heard of, do i need to open a new thread to list them for you.

and if he was to pull out his taleshaft he would check the whole thing not just water

 

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Posted: Wed May 18, 2005 12:32 am 
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if you own so many and have so many problems why keep buying them...
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Posted: Wed May 18, 2005 12:58 am 
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Sorry Smokey to get off the track a bit. Anyway is it worse at just over 80km/h if you decelerate? If it is just replace the rear universal joint, the front can be replaced also but the rear is more prone to wear due to tilting of the diff when accelerating/decelerating.
To remove the shaft you will need an 18mm ring spanner and a 15mm socket.
Dont forget to copy the yellow dots from both ends of the shaft onto the diff flange and the trans output shaft (not the trans casing)
When removing the flange yoke (rear part) mark it and the shaft so it is placed back on in the same position, do the same on the slip flange if replacing the front UJ. After replacing the UJ's wrap the UJ bearings by giving the outside of all bearings a medium hit with a nylon mallet. Do this until there is no binding in the joints.
Also make sure to grease all bearings with Mobil blue grease or similar.
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