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brake shudder 

 

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 Post subject: brake shudder
Posted: Thu Sep 01, 2005 9:40 pm 
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i purchased new disks from hightek brakes and it hasnt even been 5 months and the disks already shudder. they are slotted with standard pads. i dont brake hard but am wondering why this is happening?
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Posted: Thu Sep 01, 2005 11:04 pm 
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bedded in wrong to begin with maybe

might be the pads

 

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Posted: Sat Sep 03, 2005 1:26 pm 
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does you stering wheel shake when this happens?
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Posted: Sat Sep 03, 2005 10:26 pm 
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i was once told if the wheel nuts are tightened in the incorrect pattern this can happen..
has anyone else heard of this?

 

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 Post subject: Re: brake shudder
Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2005 1:03 pm 
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ghia v8 wrote:
i purchased new disks from hightek brakes and it hasnt even been 5 months and the disks already shudder. they are slotted with standard pads. i dont brake hard but am wondering why this is happening?


I can tell you your not alone with this. I am just starting to get the same problem occassionally. I have been hearing from all the brake guru's that it is inherant with the design of the vehicle. The pads are too long for the 2 piston calipers, the disc assembly sits in the wrong place in to get adequate cooling and the original rotors are made from crap material that can't take the heat.

I am looking at replacing my rotors with slotted, and new pads also. All the feedback I get from the suppliers is as you have experianced. It will fix it for a while regardless of what rotors you fit and pads the brake shudder will return.

So I am at a loss as for what to do.

The cheaper option is DBA slotted rotors with bendix pads $400 plus fitting or a full PBR performance brake kit, front and rear slotted, performance pads and new callipers $1950 plus fitting.

I don't mind spending the money on XR6T as I intend to keep it for a while but as too which way to go who knows, I don't.
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Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2005 6:19 pm 
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who installed them?
were the bearings changed?
if yes,
were they readjusted after abt 500km?
what pads?
you say standard, motorcraft, bendix ct etc.

edit: 300 posts up, getting close to disco stu.

 

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Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2005 8:41 pm 
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well what car for 1?

could be a wheel balance problem...
or it could be bad pads or incorrect bedding in procedure or even a few hard stops can cause brake shudder

 

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Posted: Fri Sep 23, 2005 1:52 am 
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Mine are doing the same thing
DBA slotted rotors, installed at 221,000kms and fitted new bearings at the time. All done properly.
Was all fine for 20,000kms but now the shudder and steering wheel wobbles are extreme.

I didn't have the problem at first, but I used up the pads Cam from Hightek supplied in only 18,775 kms. Pretty short life.

I replaced them with $55 Bendix pads from Auto One - not sure what type of Bendix's.
Is it possible these pads are too hard and are giving this effect?
If I get softer pads will teh problem go away, or are the discs likely to be knackered by the harder pads?
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Posted: Fri Sep 23, 2005 3:15 am 
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could be wheel shimmy, have all the front end suspension components been checked along with steering rack ends?
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Posted: Fri Sep 23, 2005 10:40 am 
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Rik_Biel wrote:
M

I didn't have the problem at first, but I used up the pads Cam from Hightek supplied in only 18,775 kms. Pretty short life.
pfft 10,000kms killed a set of bendix ultimates :)
but damn did the car stop

 

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Posted: Fri Sep 23, 2005 5:06 pm 
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its not the design otherwise i'm guessing news of this would have reached ford and it would have been looked at. quite often new rotors will need a skim early on in there life. bedding in is pretty important and if not done or done right then could cause warpage. also always make sure the slides on the calipers for the outer brake pad are well lubed. qhite often they are not and so they don't pull in square to the disc and then you have uneven wear and eventually brake shudder.

could just be that the hub nut needs nipping up a fraction more too.

 

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Posted: Sat Sep 24, 2005 11:16 pm 
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Ahh yes... I have had this problem too. It p****d me off bad.
I have recently installed DBA slotted's with Bendix Ultimates.
Got the wheel wobble and brake shudder too.
Was worse around the 60K mark on a hard stop. It was really a bad sound.

I have changed to these new parts ( rotors, pads and bearings) and were installed at the same time.

Though, I also readjusted the wheel bearings after a couple of weeks. Make sure you undo the nut and re-tighten to 12nm (think that was the torque that DBA asked you to do).
That reduced the wobble and noise down a fair bit, but the noise was still there. Also check and adjust the nut locking cap. It seemed quite loose over the nut and allow the nut to loosen slightly, giving the bearings a lesser preload that before, thus creating potential for a wobble.

In the last few days/last week, I have noticed a less of a noise from the brakes. Maybe the bedding in is is finally complete?

 

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 Post subject: Rotors and PAds
Posted: Sat Sep 24, 2005 11:32 pm 
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In my looking for the holy grail of brakes, I found there isn't any.

I spoke to numerous major brake specialists and it is in the design of the rotors, location in the wheel for cooling and the length of the pad in relation to the position of the pistons.

So if you think you can match all that together for a quick fix your doing better than Ford.

With the standard DBA slotted rotors consensus from the experts was to use Bendix GCT pads not ultimates or even heavy duty. This is what they found through experiance but still shuddered eventually.

Personally I am going to install the PBA performance kit. It is all matched componants that way. Retail from Repco is $1950 + fitting. This is the identical kit that is std on the BA GT and Typhoon and optional for the XR's for $2950 when ordered on the production line. I would like to know how Ford can charge this sort of price when I can but it over the counter for $1000 less.
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Posted: Sun Sep 25, 2005 1:01 am 
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if its a design fault then why doesn't every ef/l have this prob. mine don't shudder and i have stock rotors and bendix pads. like i said before make sure u keep the slides lubed on the calipers so the pads wear evenly. to do the nut up properly you need a dial out guage as the disc is meant to have a slight wobble in it(not detectable without guage) to knock the pads off after braking. new rotors quite often warp very early on. get them machined and see how they go from then on. you will find they will be o.k.

 

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Posted: Sun Sep 25, 2005 4:31 pm 
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The brakes were changed for the AU, and then there were complaints about the front wheels looking crap after a week. So the fix was to put different pads in the BA and that didn't work. SO came the Ford fix of grind the rotors true when warped and fit aggressive pads to keep them true by a little bit of wear of the rotor evertime you break.

You don't honestly think Ford left the brakes the same from the ED do you. You should know the old saying if it works well change it or find out why.
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