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BTR 4sp manual shifting 

 

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 Post subject: BTR 4sp manual shifting
Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2008 10:36 pm 
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another gearbox question..

is it the shifter lever or trans position switch that actually controls holding the trans in 1, 2 or 3??

there is hardly any difference in the resistance of the trans switch terminals when in 1 2 3 D

specs :

1 = 1.0 - 1.4K ohms
2 = 1.8 - 2.2
3 = 3.0 - 3.4
D = 4.5 - 4.9
N = 6.8 - 7.2
R = 10.8 - 11.2
P = 18.6 - 19.0

for eg the highest 1st value is close to the lowest 2nd value, gets me wondering if the ecu could really rely on such close values and still be accurate and reliable??

so would it be posible to shift or hold gears just by altering the resistance on this switch or does the shifter lever need to be physically moved down to 1 2 to get it to shift??

not that i want to do it, but is this how people go about adapting the BA sequential shifter to the E series trans?

 

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Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2008 7:34 pm 
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does anyone get what im on about?

 

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Posted: Fri Apr 04, 2008 12:23 am 
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Hello,
The variable resistor via selector switch on the side of the transmission forms part of a resistor network.
The other part is a pullup resistor to +5v in the ECU (or trans controller if a V8).

This provides a voltage variation to the ECU with a different voltage representing each step in the PRND321 sequence.

The voltage difference, between each lever position, is quite sufficient for the ECU to clearly resolve the shifter position.

In the E series boxes D321 are selected via the voltages only.... i.e. the ECU reads the voltage and implements the relevant gear.
PRN positions are controlled mostly through the shifter operating valves in the trans but also the ECU using the shifter position via the voltages.

Yes, this is partly how it is done (I make the BA shifter adapter that the guys use to make the BA shifter work in the Eseries).

Hope that helps.
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Posted: Fri Apr 04, 2008 7:56 pm 
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the reason im asking is because my trans wont manually hold gears its the same whether its in D 3 2 or 1...

ive replaced the switch but no change....it was a 2nd hand switch that i had lying around so maybe its stuffed too..

else what could it be??

 

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Posted: Fri Apr 04, 2008 8:02 pm 
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gogetta wrote:
the reason im asking is because my trans wont manually hold gears its the same whether its in D 3 2 or 1...

ive replaced the switch but no change....it was a 2nd hand switch that i had lying around so maybe its stuffed too..

else what could it be??
Put the cluster into diagnostics mode and see if the cluster is seeing the selector switch change.

 

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Posted: Fri Apr 04, 2008 8:07 pm 
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twason wrote:
gogetta wrote:
the reason im asking is because my trans wont manually hold gears its the same whether its in D 3 2 or 1...

ive replaced the switch but no change....it was a 2nd hand switch that i had lying around so maybe its stuffed too..

else what could it be??
Put the cluster into diagnostics mode and see if the cluster is seeing the selector switch change.


great idea except in this case ive got an ED...
will have to keep that idea in the memory banks for when the EF stuffs up

 

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Posted: Fri Apr 04, 2008 8:19 pm 
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Hey I have two EF's and didn't even know they had a diagnostics mode, how do you do that?
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Posted: Fri Apr 04, 2008 8:37 pm 
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Gogetta, stick your multimeter across the wires you measured the resistances on. Meter in volts mode. Ignition should be on.
You should read P=4.0v R=3.5v N=3.0v D=2.5v 3=2.0v 2=1.5v and 1=1.0v.
May not be exactly those voltages but in the +/- 0.1v tolerance range.

Hope that helps....
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Posted: Sat Apr 05, 2008 12:25 pm 
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waghoon: http://www.fordmods.com/forums/doc_menu.php

locate EF "instrument diagnostics"..
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Posted: Sat Apr 05, 2008 9:39 pm 
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ive fixed the problem

turned out to be the plug going into the switch, the pins had been pushed back into the plug and werent contacting the terminals on the switch..now its much more fun

it would have been much harder to find the fault if it wasnt for the factory wiring diagram I was using to trace the wire...these things are so much better than any other ..

the only thing I dont like about the transmission now is its reluctance to kickback to first when your going above 60....I tried to do it manually and it will let you but I did it at about 65 and this very bad screeching noise happened so i quickly put it in 2 and havent tried it again

also the rear trans mount seems to move around a bit...i checked it and it didnt look broken so what could be causing this clunking

 

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Posted: Sat Apr 05, 2008 11:09 pm 
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Gogetta, glad to hear it is now fixed.
The box has built in safeguards (part of the valve body function) to prevent selection of a low gear when the speed or revs are too high.
If you got a noise then there may be an internal trans problem.
The rear mounts do soften up. If you do a replacement only buy original... all of the aftermarket ones I've seen are very poor.

And, yes, I agree that the only manuals worth having are the factory produced ones. I have XR to BA but am missing the AU (still saving up for that one).
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Posted: Sat Apr 05, 2008 11:41 pm 
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thanks for the assistance muzza....

the box probably has some issues id say....when i first got it it would go into limp mode regularly, but that now seems to be gone....oil is very dirty but seems to shift fairly well anyway...

previous owner wasnt big on preventative maintenance more into things like cut springs that bounce the car all over the road (found the front had cut superlows in it!!!!)

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 12:45 pm 
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good to see yours is fixed up. I've got a similiar problem to this at the moment.

My problem was slipping out of D and into 3rd on highway cruise, this normally bumped me up to 2100 revs.
I pulled the inhibitor switch off and tested all the resistance settings and they were within range (i didnt do the volts as mentioned above, will do that today).. after i reconnected the inhibitor switch, the problem just went away and i've had no slipping up until last night..

Was driving home from work and the beast slipped from D into 2nd this time at 100km and my revs jumped to 2600. Also, two of my dash lights lit up sparatically at the same time, so whatever the problem is, its affecting the electrical in the dash too..

anything else i can test. ive tested the position switch connector which has two wires, how can i test the inhibitor connector which has iirc 3 or 4?
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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 3:03 pm 
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rdiigen, could be a misaligned lever ? the lever is adjusted to close to 3rd and it just takes a bump ?
Otherwise if you could wire in the mutimeter so you could check out what happens when it drops down (when driving) that would be the best test.
If the voltage shows 3rd then it is probably the switch (or misaligned level position).
If it does into 3rd but the voltage says Drive then it is a problem in the box.
Can provide wire details for the connections (at the ECU) if needed.
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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 3:11 pm 
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could it be an electrical fault in the cluster? these problems always seem to happen at the same time as the blinking lights in the dash (low coolant light and Lights-on light) ie When the gears slip, the lights will come on simultaneously.

shouldve also mentioned im getting fault 452 speedo signal fault.
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