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Changing brake rotors 

 

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Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 11:50 pm 
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Someone should do a tech doc on pads + rotor change. I would as I'm doing mine hopefully this weekend, but I cbf taking pics and writing so much s**t lol.

 

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Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2008 9:41 am 
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Yeah a tech doco on changing rotors and pads would be awesome. It is a fairly scarce subject on the rest of the internet as well..

Btw thanks everyone who posted help here, very much appreciated ;).

 

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Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2008 11:40 am 
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i think i will do my rotors and pads front and back in a couple of weeks. (dont hold me on it as it involves money and the apprentice dont do to well) will write up and take photos of a doco for everyone :D

 

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Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2008 5:53 pm 
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Please make sure you remove the cap off the fluid res before you start to push the piston's back into the calipers, otherwise you could damage the res! Be careful not to push the piston's back into the calipers & make the res overflow either!

Further to the " G clamp " method to press the piston's back in, use the old pad sitting in as it would just before you fit the caliper back over the rotor. That way you press the piston in as square as possible. DON'T use a new pad to do this, you will damage the pad!

Cheers & Good Luck.

ToranaGuy

 

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Posted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 7:22 am 
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BenJBro wrote:
Please oh please, go out and buy any sort of workshop manual. You will save yourself a lot of heartache, and learn something in the process.BenJ

Ahhahaahhaahaha.. If we all did that we'd never end up getting anywhere. Does a workshop manual tell you to use a builders G-Clamp to push pistons back up? Hell. I thought I was clever working that out all by myself like.

Although - Yeah. If you can't find the dust covers over the wheel bearings and remove the rotor without getting on the internet then maybe a manual would have been a good idea. ;)

Then again, manuals sometimes make things sound worse than they are.
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Posted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 11:52 am 
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fiend wrote:
BenJBro wrote:
Please oh please, go out and buy any sort of workshop manual. You will save yourself a lot of heartache, and learn something in the process.BenJ

Ahhahaahhaahaha.. If we all did that we'd never end up getting anywhere. Does a workshop manual tell you to use a builders G-Clamp to push pistons back up? Hell. I thought I was clever working that out all by myself like.

Although - Yeah. If you can't find the dust covers over the wheel bearings and remove the rotor without getting on the internet then maybe a manual would have been a good idea. ;)

Then again, manuals sometimes make things sound worse than they are.


Very true Fiend!

BUT in the manual, you will see the " correct " tool for pushing the piston's back in & look at it & think, " ah, a G or even F clamp will do the job " :lol: Sometimes the manual makes things look worse, like the front subframe to Z bar bushes, it says you need a special tool. Yeah right you do, tools i used, once bumper removed, is a rather large cheap blade screw driver, a 3lb mallet & anger. The bush come out fairly easy! :twisted:

As for the rear calipers, you really do need a proper tool to reseat the piston's in the calipers, as they need to be twisted in. The tool, a small extension bar & a 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar are the tools required. For the EA-ED fords and i imagine the newer fords as well, you can buy the tool from Repco & Bursons, i think it's about $30, well worth it, makes the job so much quicker!

Cheers

ToranaGuy

 

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Posted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 12:08 pm 
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Interesting. When I put the new rotors on the back of my EF I didn't twist anything. I have had all the calipers and rotors totally striped and re-assembled and have only ever used a G (or F) clamp myself... Hmmmm. Wouldn't have thought the EF to ED woulda been that much different... They use the same rotors on the front but the calipers are different on the back now you mention it.... The EF ones are simpler - a lot more like the front - where as the ED ones appear to have extra bits externally at the rear of caliper.

I would have knicked an LSD (brake to brake) from an earlier wagon the other week, but took one look at the brake set up and figured I'd keep my non lsd.
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Posted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 1:12 pm 
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The newer fords, >EF must use a drum brake type handbrake like a commonwhore! Which is a better way of doing things, less chance of the rotor warping. I've got a VH SLE disc brake diff i'm pilfering parts from to upgrade my Hz pano to rear disc's. Only issue is i really need to wait until i can afford to upgrade the front brakes to commy as well, to get same offset all around. :shock:

Cheers

ToranaGuy

 

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Posted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 8:15 pm 
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XB thru ED have the park brake in the caliper. EF on has it inside the rear disc on a mini drum similar to c/dore and volvo.

 

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Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 12:25 am 
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Got mine done today:

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DBA rotors with TRW pads.

Haven't had a chance to notice any difference yet, looking forward to going for a proper drive in the wet.
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Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 1:40 pm 
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IIRC the manual actually says you can use a G clamp.

 

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Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 6:33 pm 
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HAHAHAH --- G Clamps rock. Why do I feel like I am constantly re-inventing the wheel over here in NZ?! Arrrg!


Those DBA's don't have a nice spiral pattern on there slots like the ZONELLI's... Do you reckon the slots actually push any air through? Wouldn't it be better at 45 degree's to the hub?
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Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 6:43 pm 
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ive heard that slotted and cross drilled rotors are usually more show than go, unless you are spending the big bucks

BUT <-------- (please note the "but")

i have slotted on my car havent felt any bad

BUT < ------- (once again)

i havent noticed any improvement on the standards
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Posted: Sat Dec 06, 2008 7:13 pm 
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DBA ROTORS.... HHHMPPPHHH>....

BUY ZONELLI....

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Zonelli have the slots going like a spiral heaps more than this almost virtical DBA rubbish --- and look at those cracks!

For the price of a x-drilled and slotted DBA you could have slotted and dimpled.... And no cracks.
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