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Changing brake rotors 

 

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 Post subject: Changing brake rotors
Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 3:25 pm 
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I've just bought replacement rotors for my car, and I'm basically just wondering if there's anything fancy that needs to happen other than unbolting the old ones and popping the new ones in??

ie do I need new grease or bearings or anything??

 

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Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 3:32 pm 
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New Pads!
New bearings, new seals (around $35) for both.
I always replace the cups in the new rotors with 'mated bearings'
Or if you purchase new bearings and they're the same brand as the cups in the rotors leave them in.
New Grease (Timken $8.99)
1 x tube rubber grease to lube the sliders.
1ltr Brake fluid and a piece of pipe to bleed.
1 x Can Brake Cleaner (or metho to clean the anti rusting agent / remove grease)

 

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Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 3:56 pm 
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Krytox wrote:
New Pads!
New bearings, new seals (around $35) for both.
I always replace the cups in the new rotors with 'mated bearings'
Or if you purchase new bearings and they're the same brand as the cups in the rotors leave them in.
New Grease (Timken $8.99)
1 x tube rubber grease to lube the sliders.
1ltr Brake fluid and a piece of pipe to bleed.
1 x Can Brake Cleaner (or metho to clean the anti rusting agent / remove grease)
Ummmm, why do you need to bleed the brakes? The calipers just need to be moved out of the way, not disconnected.

CHeers
RD

 

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Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 4:59 pm 
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ok this may sound like a tarded question, but once I've taken the caliper off, can I just bash the old rotor off with a hammer??

as in is anything else holding the rotor on?

 

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Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 5:06 pm 
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pete.h wrote:
ok this may sound like a tarded question, but once I've taken the caliper off, can I just bash the old rotor off with a hammer??

as in is anything else holding the rotor on?
Big nut on the end of the stub axel, hold the bearings in. Take that off and a slight pull and it should drop off.

 

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Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 5:07 pm 
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racedirector wrote:
pete.h wrote:
ok this may sound like a tarded question, but once I've taken the caliper off, can I just bash the old rotor off with a hammer??

as in is anything else holding the rotor on?
Big nut on the end of the stub axel, hold the bearings in. Take that off and a slight pull and it should drop off.
Forgot to add... the nut is under the dust cap. Take that off first :) This the the fronts of course.

The rears are held on with a big phillips head screw. Take that out and it will fall off.

Cheers
RD

 

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Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 5:16 pm 
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Ok cool so that nuggety thing on the outermost part in the middle comes off to expose a nut.

Multigrip should take that off i guess.

 

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Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 5:28 pm 
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pete.h wrote:
Ok cool so that nuggety thing on the outermost part in the middle comes off to expose a nut.

Multigrip should take that off i guess.
Yup, thats right. Tap around the outside of the cap and it will come off. Inside you will find the nut with a split pin through the stub axel. Take that out, remove the locking ring and undo the nut.

Cheers
RD

 

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Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 6:03 pm 
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Ok.. theres got to be some trick to getting those dust covers off.. the ruddy thing won't budge.

Does it matter if the cover gets all dinged??

 

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Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 6:25 pm 
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pete.h wrote:
Ok.. theres got to be some trick to getting those dust covers off.. the ruddy thing won't budge.

Does it matter if the cover gets all dinged??
What you need to do it strike it with an outward hit basically glancing off it. Do that all the way round and it will eventally come off. You don't want to ding it too much.

 

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Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 7:43 pm 
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HEY - Before you tap and ding and ding and tap...

Try the FIEND patented technique.

GRAB A DECENT SIZE PAIR OF VICE GRIPS WITH SHARP TEETH
(a rare find, but you can do it...)

CLAMP THE VICE GRIPS ON AS HARD AS YOU CAN
(sideways, shouldn't bend and distort the cap much, if at all)

PULL THE CAP OFF BY TWISTING AND PULLING AND TWISTING AND PULLING.
This has worked for me on covers that wouldn't come off any other way
But, so saying that - it hasn't worked a couple of times, which did require the tap and dislodge and described above.
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Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 7:46 pm 
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woo. Got it all off and sorted by way of chiselling it off.. :P

although I've hit another obstacle that I need you guys's assistance with.. I canne get the caliper back over with the flashy new pads in.. The old ones were worn down so low that the new ones have about 1cm of extra pad...

Is there a fancy way to get the piston back so theres more room??

All i've achieved so far is haemoraged brake fluid all over the place...

 

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Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 7:52 pm 
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I use a builders style G clamp. Just put it over the calliper and push the piston back in. Check how much fluid is up in the can in front of the steering wheel and remember to hose everything off with water.

If you're loosing heaps of brake fluid then you've loosened something you didn't need to or cut something you really didn't need to.

You may now need to bleed the brakes and get more brake fluid.
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Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 8:21 pm 
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racedirector wrote:
Krytox wrote:
New Pads!
New bearings, new seals (around $35) for both.
I always replace the cups in the new rotors with 'mated bearings'
Or if you purchase new bearings and they're the same brand as the cups in the rotors leave them in.
New Grease (Timken $8.99)
1 x tube rubber grease to lube the sliders.
1ltr Brake fluid and a piece of pipe to bleed.
1 x Can Brake Cleaner (or metho to clean the anti rusting agent / remove grease)
Ummmm, why do you need to bleed the brakes? The calipers just need to be moved out of the way, not disconnected.

CHeers
RD



I strongly recommend bleeding the brakes.
They should be done every 2 years.
chances are they're the original rotors and had numerous sets of pads through them.

Brake fluid breaks down, turns to sludge and usually sits in the caliper.
When you 'g-clamp' it the s**t goes straight into the reservoir.

Do not over tighten the preload nut.
Best way is to nip it up with a spanner, rotate a few times then loosen, and tighten with the wrench 'horizontal.'
Always use a New split pin.

For such an important part of a car, you really should triple check everything, and take no short cuts, especially if this is the first time removing brakes.

I guess i cant say anymore.

 

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Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 11:13 pm 
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Please oh please, go out and buy any sort of workshop manual. You will save yourself a lot of heartache, and learn something in the process.

BenJ

 

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