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Clutch Adjusment 

 

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 Post subject: Clutch Adjusment
Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 5:07 pm 
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Since having the new clutch fitted, i cannot get used to it at all.

The clutch pedal is inline with the brake pedal, and the pickup point is about 70% of travel, so its near the floor.

The problem is you have to leave some revs when you push the clutch in to change gears or it 'clunks' due to deceleration then the abrupt release of the clutch

This is fine for me at low revs, but when giving it a bootful, i dont think its good for the clutch.

I will mention that the clutch cable is kinda loose in the engine bay where it sits against the firewall and it kinda 'droops' down, is that normal?

I dont wanna over-adjust the clutch and do damage to the bearings is what i think happened last time
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Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 8:00 pm 
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Ride: 93 ED sedan

Power: 161 rwkw

Location: Rockhampton
QLD, Australia

Is the clutch cable free to move, in its sheath????
Usually you can pull on the sheath of the cable just near the firewall, and pull it out about 8 to 10mm from the adjusting nut. That is a space of 8 to 10mm between the firewall and the nut.
What condition is the bushing/insulator on the clutch fork????
What condition is the pin at the top of the clutch pedal, where the cable attaches and the bushes there????

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 8:31 pm 
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new clutch fork was fitted with clutch.

condition of the pedal and movement between firewall, i will see tommorow.

The car has a rev hang problem ever since i did the resistor trick when i converted to manual with auto ecu. Since then ive fitted a manual ecu and unplugged the round plug with the resistors hanging off it but it still behaves like a dodgy resistor mod.

I think the rev hang between gears might be contributing to the problems....... i dunno?
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Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 8:41 pm 
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Ride: 93 ED sedan

Power: 161 rwkw

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FordFairmont wrote:
new clutch fork was fitted with clutch.

condition of the pedal and movement between firewall, i will see tommorow.

The car has a rev hang problem ever since i did the resistor trick when i converted to manual with auto ecu. Since then ive fitted a manual ecu and unplugged the round plug with the resistors hanging off it but it still behaves like a dodgy resistor mod.

I think the rev hang between gears might be contributing to the problems....... i dunno?


Have you installed a clutch switch???? They mount on the pedal box and you will find a grey 2 pin plug with nothing plugged into it, just near the brake pedal.
Have you installed the wiring correctly for the switches on the gearbox???
One is a reverse light switch and one is a switch for the ECU.

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 8:44 pm 
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i thought the clutch switch was only for cruise control? Anyway, dont have one of them.

And i followed the tech doc from voxace on the resistor mod, reverse lights work
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Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 8:51 pm 
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Location: Rockhampton
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FordFairmont wrote:
i thought the clutch switch was only for cruise control? Anyway, dont have one of them.

And i followed the tech doc from voxace on the resistor mod, reverse lights work


OK, the EA's have a clutch switch. Just thought it might help.

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 9:58 pm 
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nah cool mate, any advice is a big help
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Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 10:30 pm 
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hi
to get my clutch adjusted so it worked good my clutch pedal sits about 5mm higher than the brake pedal..
my clutch geometry is out because the flywheel has been machined a few times (about 4)making the clutch and pressure plate further away from the thrust bearing..its good in one way the flywheel is lighter.

as for you hanging idle
did you connect the neutral switch on the gear box??

if you havnt the ecu will think the car is in gear.(and yes it does the same thing as the auto ecu)except the manual ecu only has one voltage for when its in gear..i think .5v ..
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