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Clutch Pedal Stopper 

 

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 Post subject: Clutch Pedal Stopper
Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 8:54 pm 
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I am leading this on from my last topic about the pedal being too high, but think it deserved its own thread.

I have done my manual conversion now, and the clutch pedal sits about a day in front (2" to 2.5") of the other pedals. It also means i need my knees up around my ears to put my foot on the clutch.

the flywheel has been machined at least once, and looked well used before i put it on, unfortunately i didnt measure how much meat was on it before installing it (didn't know i would need to)

the clutch is brand new, and is fully engaged about one inch off the floor. The rest of the travel is just taking up slack in the pressure plate (i think that is the right terminology for what i want)

to combat the high pedal, i want to put a stopper in the pedal, making it sit back down a bit. it wont affect the clutch engagement doing this, it really is fully engaged well before this.

the question i want to know the answer to though is whether or not the throwout bearing will wear out really quickly with there being a bit of pressure against it all the time?

if anyone can shed any light on this it would be appreciated.


Cheers,
Nic

 

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Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 9:05 pm 
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Can i suggest getting mock up something like a rubber bush just duct taped on or somethin to "prototype" it until you figure out how much you need to add and to see if it affects the pedal and the gearshifting

 

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Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 9:15 pm 
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we are going to put a bolt with two nuts through the clutch switch mount (i have a manual pedal box) so it can be adjusted.

we got that covered!! ;) :lol:

 

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Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 9:16 pm 
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Can you adjust the pedal using the nut in the engine bay? Sounds like something is not right.

 

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Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 9:18 pm 
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yeah, to get the clutch to disengage properly we had to use the adjusting nuts in the engine bay. they wound out a fair way.

 

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Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 10:26 pm 
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dude i just looked in my repair manual and it says it should be 178 and 180something. so i dun think you have anything wrong with it....

 

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Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 10:58 pm 
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it actually doesnt look as bad in the picture as it feels or looks from the drivers seat

Image

 

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Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 10:59 pm 
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also, i thought it was meant to be around 140mm from the floor for max travel

 

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Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2008 10:27 am 
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my eb is factory manual, and thats exactly the way the clutch sits and is supposed to sit. quit ya whinging!!! :P

 

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Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2008 10:33 am 
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my clutch pedal sits about 10-15 mm higher than the brake pedal..
and the clutch starts to engage about 20mm of the floor.
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Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2008 1:07 pm 
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Did you get the spring that connects the pedal to the floor? That helps pull it back a little.

 

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Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2008 1:33 pm 
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The pedal height is determined by the cable adjustment - a bump stop won't alter this. Slight pressure on the TO bearing, so it contacts the PP is normal - the spring mentioned above helps this.
Normally the clutch pedal should sit level or slightly higher than the brake pedal.
The flywheel thickness/pressure plate will determine where the friction point is (assuming the other components are okay - fork, etc).
I had similar with my wagon using a 3 bolt flywheel/pressure plate - the clutch was so heavy it broke the cable eventually, so I ditched this and got a 6 bolt flywheel and HD pressure plate, clutch is nice and soft, and no probs - normal pedal height too.
All you can do at this time is have the friction point as close to the floor as you can, but still be able to engage/disengage normally - too high means the PP gets overtravelled, which isn't good long term. You won't meet factory dimensions, so no point trying.

 

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Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2008 6:04 pm 
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On mine, its quite the opposite. I can push the clutch in half way and changes gears. I rarely ever push it to the floor, just a little stab is all it needs to disengage?

I adjusted it 140mm from the floor.

 

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Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 12:36 am 
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punnisher: i want it right :lol:

troy: i did some measuring today, brake pedal sits around 110mm from the firewall, clutch pedal is around 170mm!! its a long way out.

drone: no, i didnt even know there was a spring meant to be there, although it makes sense now that you've mentioned it! it wont pull the pedal back as far as i want it back though.

ray: i'll draw a pic of what i mean with the bump stop. i had trouble explaining it with words. My acutal clutch isnt *that* heavy. I currently have it engaging about 20 or 30mm off the floor, nice and early. It seems fully engaged within another 30mm or so. leaving the pedal another 100mm of travel with nothing really happening. Its only even a light pressure on the pedal at that stage.

gaz: you smug bastard!! lol

 

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Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 12:46 am 
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This is a bit of a drawing of how the stopper will work (couldnt be bother to autocad it :lol: )

it will actually partially engage the clutch.

this is why i am worried about the throwout bearing not being able to take the extra force acting on it all the time.


we have both actually had another idea which involves slightly modifying the lever ratio of the pedal itself by moving the cable pick up point further away from the pivot. this will mean the pedal pad will move a shorter distance for the same amount of cable travel. Will be tuneable to allow for adjustment down the track too.

the only downsides we can see with this are that the pedal will feel slightly heavier, and that the pedal will be more sensitive around the pickup point.
upside is that we dont have to worry about the throwout bearing always having pressure acting on it.

thoughts?

 

 

Attachments:
Stopper.JPG
Stopper.JPG [ 18.16 KiB | Viewed 1959 times ]

 

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