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| teeroy |
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Hey, good way through my conversion and as it's a fair bit of a learn as you go process that was rushed upon me, I haven't quite managed to figure out a few things.
1. Can someone show me what the 'clip' that holds the clutch cable in the bellhouse, and possibly locate one for me. 2. How do I remove the loom so I can alter with resistors? I can't seem to work out where it travels to in the bay. 3. How many different 6 bolt flywheels are there, I got given a 3 bolt with the box, bought a 6 bolt to match my new clutch and still won't line up. 4. I have my auto tailshaft, which is pooped, and another which is an inch or so longer that was also given with the box, which is used for t5? Rather have correct one ready. Cheers, thanks and prepare for more.
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| cjh |
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teeroy wrote: Hey, good way through my conversion and as it's a fair bit of a learn as you go process that was rushed upon me, I haven't quite managed to figure out a few things. 1. Can someone show me what the 'clip' that holds the clutch cable in the bellhouse, and possibly locate one for me. 2. How do I remove the loom so I can alter with resistors? I can't seem to work out where it travels to in the bay. 3. How many different 6 bolt flywheels are there, I got given a 3 bolt with the box, bought a 6 bolt to match my new clutch and still won't line up. 4. I have my auto tailshaft, which is pooped, and another which is an inch or so longer that was also given with the box, which is used for t5? Rather have correct one ready. Cheers, thanks and prepare for more. The longer tailshaft would be for a wagon/ute/van/Fairlane.....any sedan tailshaft will work. The 3 bolt flywheel would be for an EA/EB1. I tried the resistor trick, and it didn't work, so I got a manual ECU...it works. There is no clip that holds the clutch cable in the bellhousing. I drilled a tapped 3 more holes in my EA flywheel while still using an EA clutch, so my EA clutch has 6 bolts holding it on. Think about it, a clutch cover "designed" to be held with 3 bolts to work, then you add 3 more....can only help it.
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| EFFUTURA4.05SP |
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cjh wrote: teeroy wrote: Hey, good way through my conversion and as it's a fair bit of a learn as you go process that was rushed upon me, I haven't quite managed to figure out a few things. 1. Can someone show me what the 'clip' that holds the clutch cable in the bellhouse, and possibly locate one for me. 2. How do I remove the loom so I can alter with resistors? I can't seem to work out where it travels to in the bay. 3. How many different 6 bolt flywheels are there, I got given a 3 bolt with the box, bought a 6 bolt to match my new clutch and still won't line up. 4. I have my auto tailshaft, which is pooped, and another which is an inch or so longer that was also given with the box, which is used for t5? Rather have correct one ready. Cheers, thanks and prepare for more. The longer tailshaft would be for a wagon/ute/van/Fairlane.....any sedan tailshaft will work. The 3 bolt flywheel would be for an EA/EB1. I tried the resistor trick, and it didn't work, so I got a manual ECU...it works. There is no clip that holds the clutch cable in the bellhousing. I drilled a tapped 3 more holes in my EA flywheel while still using an EA clutch, so my EA clutch has 6 bolts holding it on. Think about it, a clutch cover "designed" to be held with 3 bolts to work, then you add 3 more....can only help it. I think he means the steel "holder" that lines the cable up.
_________________ 1996 EF Futura factory manual |
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| teeroy |
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with the clutch cable, i mean whatever it latches onto, to pull the bellhouse fork/engage.
i contemplated drilling and tapping, out of frustration i also contemplated welding the bastard. lol. not being able to locate a ecu, especially at a reasonable price leaves me optioning for a resistor, but in the future i'll be heading towards j3, and won't be shying away from any ecu at decent price.
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| cjh |
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The cable has a 'T' end on it, and just hooks into the " Clutch Fork Insulator " claw.
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| teeroy |
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cjh wrote: The cable has a 'T' end on it, and just hooks into the " Clutch Fork Insulator " claw. that would be what i'm missing then, the clutch fork insulator claw. would ford still stock? i'll suss out wreckers tomorrow as well.
_________________ be good or be good at it. |
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| cjh |
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teeroy wrote: cjh wrote: The cable has a 'T' end on it, and just hooks into the " Clutch Fork Insulator " claw. that would be what i'm missing then, the clutch fork insulator claw. would ford still stock? i'll suss out wreckers tomorrow as well. I think so......not 100% sure.....but, that Insulator will need to be " Spiked " when it is fitted into the clutch fork....so it doesn't fall out or rattle.
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| teeroy |
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cjh wrote: teeroy wrote: cjh wrote: The cable has a 'T' end on it, and just hooks into the " Clutch Fork Insulator " claw. that would be what i'm missing then, the clutch fork insulator claw. would ford still stock? i'll suss out wreckers tomorrow as well. I think so......not 100% sure.....but, that Insulator will need to be " Spiked " when it is fitted into the clutch fork....so it doesn't fall out or rattle. cheers, also, should my clutch fork be able to be slid out from under the allen key when tightened? i can't remember if it did prior to me undo'ing it to clean and replace bearing.
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| ranga83 |
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http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/300694886957 ... 1497.l2649 thats where i got mine from. as for your tailshaft, i have one here if your chasing one, im in point cook.
_________________ ef futura, pacemakers, 2.5inch catback, k&n panel filter and 3.45 lsd. extractors/cat, ticky head, custom cam grind, t5. now onto cosmetics. |
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| cjh |
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Oh, I forgot...a little trick.....there is a plastic cup looking thing at the end of the cable outer, it goes in the bellhousing and has a rubber in it....get a wide band hose clamp, and put that around the plastic part where the rubber goes in......it will give you antwhere from 2mm to 4mm extra travel at the fork......it is worth it.....I have done it......it stops the rubber squashing so much when the pedal is depressed, and thus loosing some travel.
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| cjh |
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teeroy wrote: cjh wrote: teeroy wrote: cjh wrote: The cable has a 'T' end on it, and just hooks into the " Clutch Fork Insulator " claw. that would be what i'm missing then, the clutch fork insulator claw. would ford still stock? i'll suss out wreckers tomorrow as well. I think so......not 100% sure.....but, that Insulator will need to be " Spiked " when it is fitted into the clutch fork....so it doesn't fall out or rattle. cheers, also, should my clutch fork be able to be slid out from under the allen key when tightened? i can't remember if it did prior to me undo'ing it to clean and replace bearing. No, it shouldn't be able to be removed. It is called a 'Shoulder Bolt'....and under it, it should have a little wear plate. You will need to apply lube ( high temp grease or Anti-sieze compound ) to the wear surfaces, ie; pivot points on the fork ( shoulder bolt, wear plate, throw-out bearing pivot point, and the claw), and the sleeve where the throw-out bearing slides on, and the lightest of smears on the spline of the g'box, and have you fitted a spigot bearing into the crankshaft?????.....almost forgot that one.... 
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| cjh |
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Note this part number, XFL-7L588-A, for the insulator.....it was for the XF onwards with a T5 gearbox.
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| teeroy |
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cheers, do i need both wear plates pictured or just the one, cos i got one (worn like the one on the left) and it's still sliding out from the shoulder bolt.
yeah spigot bearing is in, as well as new rear main seal, just to be on the safe side, plus i brought a tube of castrol htb grease Ranga83, i'll probably be hitting you up as i'm in lavo and my auto one has wear on the spline end. PM me your number and price. cjh, what do you mean spiked? do i do it myself?
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| ranga83 |
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pm sent. and by spiked he means the outer case at the back of the insulator needs to be bent up to prevent it from falling out. i can show you when u pick up the tailshaft if you want
_________________ ef futura, pacemakers, 2.5inch catback, k&n panel filter and 3.45 lsd. extractors/cat, ticky head, custom cam grind, t5. now onto cosmetics. |
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| teeroy |
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cheers, last thing to sort out is loom and that small shoulder bolt plate, still unsire if needing one or two. and if one, should it have wear marks? if not i'll just cut and punch a bit of steel at work, lol.
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