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| gogetta |
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my mates car is making a bad clunking sound coming from the front left..
- it does it most consistently when you reverse and turn to the right when applying the brakes... - does it more when its cold than hot, ie mornings - will also do it when hitting brakes hard and turning upper and lower ball joints seem good, had the stub axels out completely and they feel good to the hand.. tie rod end and rack end seem ok replaced LH wheel bearing - no real difference upper control arm bushes seem ok anyone had this and fixed this
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| cjh |
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Check the front & rear strut bar bushes????.....you sure it's not the lower B/J????
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| gogetta |
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there was a tiny tiny bit of movement in the bottom BJ (i think) but was hard to tell really..
how do u check the lower BJ properly?
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| 89.SVO |
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Age: 34 Posts: 3379 Joined: 11th Mar 2008 Ride: EA SVO, AU2, Toyota Crown Location: Bendigo |
i'm not liking the "this seems good, that seems good". it either is or it isn't. if you don't know how to do check go get on of those Pedders $28 100 point safety checks
_________________ Daily driver: 2010 Toyota Crown hybrid 3.5L V6 hybrid. 254kw. |
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| sd1800 |
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WILDEB wrote: i'm not liking the "this seems good, that seems good". it either is or it isn't. if you don't know how to do check go get on of those Pedders $28 100 point safety checks Problem is Pedders will come back to you telling you need a new overpriced steering rack@$600 along with numerous other repairs which probably aren't required.
_________________ Formerly LV XR5 Turbo, AU Fairmont Ghia V8 & EBII Fairmont I6. |
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| nalane |
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They will but you dont have to get it all done. Take it home and do the related bits yourself or tell them what you want fixed.
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| Shortshift |
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gogetta wrote: how do u check the lower BJ properly? 1. Jack up the front of the vehicle. 2. Place a stand under the side your checking for safety. 3. Grab a length of 50mm pipe, or strong timber, and place it under the wheel (use as a lever) 4. Try raising and lowering the wheel a few inches (several times to mimic wheel travel) 5. If you can feel movement, before the spring creates resistance, you've got a worn ball joint. You'll probably hear the clunking noise as well. At the same time, you can try moving the wheel (3 o'clock to 9 o'clock) to see if there's any movement in the tie rod joint.
_________________ AU2 XR8 with Raptor VL, ported Yella Terra GT40P heads, Scorpion 1.6 RRs, XE264HR-14 Comp Cam, ceramic coated Hurricane Headers, 60lb injectors, Walbro 255, 200cfi cats, 3" exhaust & Snow Performance water methanol injection |
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| cjh |
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Put the Jack ( decent trolley jack ) as close as possible to the wheel under the lower control arm. Jack up the vehicle at that point, till the wheel is off the ground by about 3" or 4". Use a crow bar under the wheel, move the crowbar up & down, as well as sideways.
You may need another person with a torch to see whats going on while you are moving the crowbar. If ANY movement is detected at the ball joint, it is defective. The lower B/J is the one with all the load on it, the top B/J just holds the wheel upright. The most accurate way of checking any suspension component is to check it at ride height...thats where most of the wear is. If you check it at full hang.....your not checking it at it's wear point.
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| gogetta |
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Shortshift wrote: gogetta wrote: how do u check the lower BJ properly? 1. Jack up the front of the vehicle. 2. Place a stand under the side your checking for safety. 3. Grab a length of 50mm pipe, or strong timber, and place it under the wheel (use as a lever) 4. Try raising and lowering the wheel a few inches (several times to mimic wheel travel) 5. If you can feel movement, before the spring creates resistance, you've got a worn ball joint. You'll probably hear the clunking noise as well. At the same time, you can try moving the wheel (3 o'clock to 9 o'clock) to see if there's any movement in the tie rod joint. cjh wrote: Put the Jack ( decent trolley jack ) as close as possible to the wheel under the lower control arm. Jack up the vehicle at that point, till the wheel is off the ground by about 3" or 4". Use a crow bar under the wheel, move the crowbar up & down, as well as sideways. You may need another person with a torch to see whats going on while you are moving the crowbar. If ANY movement is detected at the ball joint, it is defective. The lower B/J is the one with all the load on it, the top B/J just holds the wheel upright. The most accurate way of checking any suspension component is to check it at ride height...thats where most of the wear is. If you check it at full hang.....your not checking it at it's wear point. thanks guys that is great info....much more helpful than sending it to pedders...
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| 89.SVO |
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Age: 34 Posts: 3379 Joined: 11th Mar 2008 Ride: EA SVO, AU2, Toyota Crown Location: Bendigo |
gogetta wrote: Shortshift wrote: gogetta wrote: how do u check the lower BJ properly? 1. Jack up the front of the vehicle. 2. Place a stand under the side your checking for safety. 3. Grab a length of 50mm pipe, or strong timber, and place it under the wheel (use as a lever) 4. Try raising and lowering the wheel a few inches (several times to mimic wheel travel) 5. If you can feel movement, before the spring creates resistance, you've got a worn ball joint. You'll probably hear the clunking noise as well. At the same time, you can try moving the wheel (3 o'clock to 9 o'clock) to see if there's any movement in the tie rod joint. cjh wrote: Put the Jack ( decent trolley jack ) as close as possible to the wheel under the lower control arm. Jack up the vehicle at that point, till the wheel is off the ground by about 3" or 4". Use a crow bar under the wheel, move the crowbar up & down, as well as sideways. You may need another person with a torch to see whats going on while you are moving the crowbar. If ANY movement is detected at the ball joint, it is defective. The lower B/J is the one with all the load on it, the top B/J just holds the wheel upright. The most accurate way of checking any suspension component is to check it at ride height...thats where most of the wear is. If you check it at full hang.....your not checking it at it's wear point. thanks guys that is great info....much more helpful than sending it to pedders... well boohoo. you sounded like you didn't know what the f**k you were doin
_________________ Daily driver: 2010 Toyota Crown hybrid 3.5L V6 hybrid. 254kw. |
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| JOSE |
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WILDEB wrote: well boohoo. you sounded like you didn't know what the f**k you were doin Need to go get in your hug box huh? i was having the same problem except it would clunk when hot (and really bad after a few hundred K drive) changed upper and lower ball joints and tie rod ends (boots were gone) as well as sway bar bushes and re attached my front bar properly (clip had gone walkies again) and now its all good - althoug when i had the wheel alignment done they recon the th front left needed 8mm more shims than the right side, and that heavy towing and spirited driving can make the front of the chassis go a bit wonky
_________________ Because i can. |
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| 89.SVO |
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Age: 34 Posts: 3379 Joined: 11th Mar 2008 Ride: EA SVO, AU2, Toyota Crown Location: Bendigo |
the actual strut towers bow in
_________________ Daily driver: 2010 Toyota Crown hybrid 3.5L V6 hybrid. 254kw. |
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| falconhell80 |
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[quote="WILDEB"]the actual strut towers bow in
serous? i thought that was with 70's an 80's cars more so. |
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| falconhell80 |
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cause mine's wondering like a b**ch on heat!
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| 89.SVO |
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Age: 34 Posts: 3379 Joined: 11th Mar 2008 Ride: EA SVO, AU2, Toyota Crown Location: Bendigo |
falconhell80 wrote: WILDEB wrote: the actual strut towers bow in serous? i thought that was with 70's an 80's cars more so. my dads partners EB Ghia is stock height and has 0.5degree of negative camber even after it's been shimmed to the s**t house
_________________ Daily driver: 2010 Toyota Crown hybrid 3.5L V6 hybrid. 254kw. |
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