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EB Car not Starting After Manual Conversion 

 

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Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 10:10 pm 
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yeah i can get a new thow out bearing non gen for 75 dollars and i think i may get this before i do the conversion as sounds like a goer and yeah as soon as i get the hook thingy from ford and a new bearing i will chucking her in and yeah i will take a alot of pics and make me own conversion guide to fellow modders i reakon i will know how to do once i do it and yeah

 

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Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 10:17 pm 
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throw out bearing shouldnt be that much
they're normally like $15. you dont need genuine. see a clutch shop or repco

 

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Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 10:28 pm 
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well i got priced a the rear main seal... 25 dollars
spigot 23 and throw out 75,
so if about 15 dollars i may ring the local bearing centre and repco autobarn etc etc to get a price i am like so busting my a** to do this hey.

 

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Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 10:58 pm 
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yeh repco would be a good one to try. i remember getting a quote for a new clutch kit for my eb from ford and it was like $600. i could get the same exedy kit from a clutch place for $250 including throwout bearing and spigot bush.

as a general rule dont buy anything from ford unless its the only place you can get it from

 

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Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 11:11 pm 
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Froudey wrote:
well i got priced a the rear main seal... 25 dollars
spigot 23 and throw out 75,
so if about 15 dollars i may ring the local bearing centre and repco autobarn etc etc to get a price i am like so busting my a** to do this hey.


nah these prices were from regional Auto Supplies in Dubbo they do alot of after market s**t but i will make a few phone calls tomorrow to vasiours places like aubussons bearing center and repco etc etc

 

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Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 11:17 pm 
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Ride: EB2 Ghia,Mighty Boy,Eb1 Xr8 5spd

Location: ** In the Shed! **
VIC, Australia

I have found when i did my manual conversion on the EB, that the plates on the body with the threads for the trans Xmember bolts needed to be turned around to bolt the Xmember upto the body. When your under there you will get what i mean. From comparing the Auto Xmember & manual Xmember, i can't see any difference. I do believe that if you sit the auto & manual gearboxes side by side, the Xmember when bolted to the manual is a couple cm closer to the bell housing.

I used my original Auto tailshaft, just because it was recently rebalanced. Works fine.

Currently i'm in the middle of a manual to auto conversion on an ED GLI, which was the donor car for my T5. It's also rather straight forward. I'll probably be sharing the ED with my g/f for a bit while i rebuild my lsd in the EB & the engine in my mighty boy that she drives. Then it will be sold more than likely.

The only part anyone should find hard going from auto to manual, is the wiring trickery if you don't get a manual ecu & manual gearbox wiring loom, which i posted the ford part number to a thread somewhere on this forum, maybe the manual conversion thread by Voxace iirc.

Incase anyone cares, i'm a network engineer for AllTasks IT. I own 4 car's i plan on keeping. I build, repair & play with networks, servers & pc's for a living :D

Cheers

ToranaGuy

 

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I am the ToranaGuy!|74 Lh Torana Turbo|78 Hz PanelVan|86 Mighty Boy Ute|93 EB2 Ghia,GT Mockup,5spd,LPGI,Full Leather|2 x EB Xr8 5spd's|FS [VIC]: Wrecking - Eb XR8 - Parts available |Build Thread|Ebay Items - Ford Parts|

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Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 11:42 pm 
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yeah i took my little mate (son) out to his nans for a few nights and had a closer look at the box out there and found that it has either a small crossmember or the rubbers etc etc hopefully i will drive my car out geurie depends how the eye is.

http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopi ... highlight=

So i will grab a few new bearings the bushes from ford i ordered and start it i figured i got a week to do it as i have that week off because of my eye..

http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopi ... highlight=

i will poke a long and get help from dad when he finishes work. i am sure i can do the pedal box undo tailshaft and drop the auto out (maybe lol)

Or i will make a phone call to see how much it would cost for a tranny place to do it i want to do it myself though for the experiance

 

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Posted: Fri Jul 27, 2007 10:23 am 
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Dont pay anybody to do it man, I guarantee you can do a better job than sombody you pay (im a Customer Service Rep, mechanical knowlege before I started ripping cars/lawnmowers apart = zero)

Give it a go, WORST case scenario, you get stuck, you come on here, query gets answerd (thinking about this job in your head, yes, its huge....try not to think about it toomuch, just do it, and you will see what people mean about where stuff goes, then I guarantee you will say to yourself "dude, what was I so worried about before?".)

Either way, you will learn heaps, you asked a question afew posts ago, about a gasket inbetween the bellhousing/motor, theres 2 sandwitch plates, I believe you can re-use the auto ones??

But yea dude, moral of my story, give it a go, you will be fine :)

 

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Posted: Fri Jul 27, 2007 4:50 pm 
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Nah i meant is there a gasket between the bellhousing and the gearbox it self?

here is my list so far;

Pedal Box
Bellhousing
Flywheel
Clutch
Pressure Plate
Gearbox
Clutch Fork
Throw out Bearing
Clutch Cable
Damper Hook ($45 Dollars from Ford)
Clutch Pedal Bushes (EA2471)
Clevis clip and bushes (XF7B605A)

And yeah it is coming along hopefully me and dad will start tomorrow

 

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Last edited by Froudey on Fri Jul 27, 2007 5:44 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Posted: Fri Jul 27, 2007 5:22 pm 
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Ride: NCII Fairlane

Location: Bathurst
NSW, Australia

Oh hows this for prices on throw out bearings
Aubusson Bearing Centre Dubbo $54.20
Repco $209
Ford $138
Autobarn "roughly" $70
Regional Auto Supplies $80

so hmmmm you work it out Repco is dearer then Ford lol

Oh i forgot to ask or mention the whole ECU related issue. This is me just with assumptions this car is an 3.9 EB with out smartlock etc etc seeing that the Auto is run by the TCM under were the clutch sould sit with this do i just remove it and remove the loom or just hide the loom and do the rewireing trick for the gearbox natural safty switch etc etc

I have read people that have done this used the old Auto ecu and let it reset it self if you will and only occasionally it revs abit??? surely this wouldn't hurt nothing what it would just reve to like 2 ish or less and drop back to 700 ish??

 

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Last edited by Froudey on Fri Jul 27, 2007 5:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Fri Jul 27, 2007 5:33 pm 
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Yea, I got quoted $190 from repco, $120 from ford, and $60 from CBC bearings!

As for gasket between bellhousing and gearbox, Ive never seen one/my T5 didnt have one, so safe to say no, but if there is meant to be one......... not using it has no real dramas.

Get into that conversion :D , Im still up in the air about the dash removal, wait 3 weeks for a mates son to do it for $50 (has done about 3 of these, and every dash has come back looking perfect) or have another go at doing it myself.

(I pulled the pedal box from my parts ford, and yea, ended up getting it snagged, got the s**t, being a parts car I didnt care, I ripped the dash off.........)

 

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Posted: Fri Jul 27, 2007 6:05 pm 
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I just checked my emails and i scored an after market gearboot surround of ebay from like close to 7 dollars

ya reakon she's a goer

 

 

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Posted: Sat Jul 28, 2007 12:09 am 
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Ride: 1989 300ZX Twin turbo Z32

Location: Bardon, Brisbane
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hey mate,
just get a new clutch kit. the best place to get them from is somewhere that only sells clutch kits. you can get a new clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing and spigot bush for about $250 brand new. dont bother using the old clutch unless your willing to rip it all out when you find your clutch is slipping. also try on ebay. the sunbury brake and clutch seller is really good and has good prices for clutch kits.

personally i'd just invest in the mal wood clutch pin rather than change the pedal box. about $90 odd i believe. much easier than ripping your dash and pedal box out. works a treat in mine.

there is no gasket between engine and gearbox. there is no need for one either as there is no oil or anything in between them. there is a funny metal spacer plate thingy but that will already be on ur engine

 

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Posted: Sat Jul 28, 2007 5:02 pm 
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Ride: NCII Fairlane

Location: Bathurst
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bluecube wrote:
hey mate,
just get a new clutch kit. the best place to get them from is somewhere that only sells clutch kits. you can get a new clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing and spigot bush for about $250 brand new. dont bother using the old clutch unless your willing to rip it all out when you find your clutch is slipping. also try on ebay. the sunbury brake and clutch seller is really good and has good prices for clutch kits.

personally i'd just invest in the mal wood clutch pin rather than change the pedal box. about $90 odd i believe. much easier than ripping your dash and pedal box out. works a treat in mine.

there is no gasket between engine and gearbox. there is no need for one either as there is no oil or anything in between them. there is a funny metal spacer plate thingy but that will already be on ur engine



Nah the part sellers in dubbo don't sell these kits with the bearing s only the clutch / pressure plate etc etc no bearings

 

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Posted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 12:00 am 
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Age: 33

Posts: 6746

Joined: 13th Mar 2006

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Ride: NCII Fairlane

Location: Bathurst
NSW, Australia

Got some more little bits for the Manual Conversion....
Bush Clutch Clevis (XF7B605A) 2x
Rod Clutch Release (XC7664A)
Insltr Asy-Clutch Lvr (XFL7L588A)

So Yeah getting there

 

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