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EL Auto to Manual Conversion Wiring ? 

 

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Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2007 10:28 am 
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so in summery whats going on with the trick?

i have done it, and stuff is weird, put the clutch in and revs flare up (~2500 but only if upshifting, weird), and cant start in gear (like 1st with clutch in). and seems to be using HEAPS of fuel (im babying it now even on highway trips, ie Seymour to Essendon, used 1/4 tank trip of around 110kph at 95%highway rest at 70kph)

i did exactly as the guide said to do. is their a way to fix? ill get a manual ecu if i have to, but idd like to keep the auto one as im hunting a tikygas one.

 

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Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2007 10:37 am 
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Alright fella's have been doing a bit of reading bout this T5 business. Im about to install mine next weekend hopefully. Now iv bought the resistors mentioned in Voxace's pdf document, the 7k resistor and the 1.2k. am i right in saying that these are the only 2 resistors i need when converting my EF to manual?
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Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2007 11:20 am 
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just adding to my watched list for future use thanks guys..

 

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Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2007 2:49 pm 
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yeah i just used TWO resistors, in the conversion.

im still not sure its running right, i just drove (between these two posts) from essendon to seymour and used a lil under a 1/4 tannk again (smelt petrol the whole way) whats going on?

 

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Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2007 5:51 pm 
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hey does it matter if the resistor is 6.8K and 1.5K ohm...cause that's all i got :S

phong =P~

EDIT: one more thing...i don't have 2 red/black wires in the 4 wire plug...only one red/black and one pink/black...which ones goes to where or is positive or negative not required in connecting to the reverse switch?

and the round plug, i have black/white, and a green/yellow and yellow...i connect the black/white to the yellow right? with the 1.2k (or 1.5K in my case) in between the wires?

phong =P~

 

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Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2007 6:30 pm 
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6.8k is ok as thats all ull be able to get. not sure on the 1.5k tho... Iv got a couple of 6.8k and a couple 1.2k ones here for mine, incase one is faulty.
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Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2007 6:47 pm 
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fairmont599 wrote:
6.8k is ok as thats all ull be able to get. not sure on the 1.5k tho... Iv got a couple of 6.8k and a couple 1.2k ones here for mine, incase one is faulty.


alright cool..now just to make sure 1.5k is good...or else i'd have to find one somewhere...or make one out of what resistors i got.

phong =P~

 

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Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2007 7:00 pm 
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phongus wrote:
fairmont599 wrote:
6.8k is ok as thats all ull be able to get. not sure on the 1.5k tho... Iv got a couple of 6.8k and a couple 1.2k ones here for mine, incase one is faulty.


alright cool..now just to make sure 1.5k is good...or else i'd have to find one somewhere...or make one out of what resistors i got.

phong =P~


hi
that resistor is to trick the ecu into what temp the trans is
you can use anything from 1.2 to 2.2k ohm resistor the higher the ohms the cooler the ecu thinks the temp is..
so a 1.5k ohm will be ok...
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Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2007 9:10 pm 
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TROYMAN wrote:
phongus wrote:
fairmont599 wrote:
6.8k is ok as thats all ull be able to get. not sure on the 1.5k tho... Iv got a couple of 6.8k and a couple 1.2k ones here for mine, incase one is faulty.


alright cool..now just to make sure 1.5k is good...or else i'd have to find one somewhere...or make one out of what resistors i got.

phong =P~


hi
that resistor is to trick the ecu into what temp the trans is
you can use anything from 1.2 to 2.2k ohm resistor the higher the ohms the cooler the ecu thinks the temp is..
so a 1.5k ohm will be ok...


thanks for that troyman, just another thing though. With the 4 wire plugs that have 2 of the 4 wires going to the reverse switch, I don't have 2 red/black wires, only one red/black wire and the other is pink/black. I'll take a stab that it doesn't really matter what colour the wire is so long as the other 2 wires in the plug go to the reverse switch? and if so, does it matter about polarity to the reverse switch, or can it just be plugged one way or the other?

cheers

phong =P~

 

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Max Power = 144.6 rwkw (03/05/2008)

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Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2007 12:26 am 
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polarity wont matter. its just a switch

 

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Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2007 9:09 pm 
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old_mate wrote:
polarity wont matter. its just a switch


thanks =D...

sorted it all out last night and started it for the first time today...at first it didn't start, kind of freaked me out but the battery wire was loose...and she started the second time and drives like a charm =D love the kick you get.

phong =P~

 

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phongus = Post whore 2006
EL XR6 motor, EL ECU + J3 chip, WADE 1673 Camshaft, 3" S/S intake, Pacy 4480, 2.5" Hi flow cat, 2.5" Lukey exhaust.
Max Power = 144.6 rwkw (03/05/2008)

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Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2007 9:17 pm 
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I hope you oiled the box b4 you got excited!

 

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Posted: Mon Mar 19, 2007 12:05 pm 
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Krytox wrote:
I hope you oiled the box b4 you got excited!


yes i did, old oil out and new oil in

phong =P~

 

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EL XR6 motor, EL ECU + J3 chip, WADE 1673 Camshaft, 3" S/S intake, Pacy 4480, 2.5" Hi flow cat, 2.5" Lukey exhaust.
Max Power = 144.6 rwkw (03/05/2008)

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Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2007 8:08 pm 
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Ok finally found the time to get stuck into the EL!

Funny thing about the XR6 T5 that I put in is that I had to change the starter motor bolts as the auto (starter motor) bolts were a different thread. Then I also found that the drain plug is imperial and not metric which meant a purchase of imperial hex keys which sort of annoyed me.

Did the wiring for the auto and decided change from dual fuel to straight gas removing the injectors and replacing the ECU with a Tickford LPG one. Changed the sender for the tank to a 2 - 176 ohm and wired into the fuel guage which now reads correctly.

One thing I found was that the hole for the return spring seemed to lift the pedal height a little to far so drilled another one lower but may end up getting another spring which is a little longer to suit.

So having done all this work I've run into a little problem.. ..

The motor cranks but no spark?

Now I know it all ran before the conversion so I'm stuck at the moment and need some help sorting this out!

I figure that with the motor cranking and the smartlock indicator working as it should that it's related to the straight gas changes... I rewired the gas system to come on at ignition and have removed the fuel pump wiring from the tank along with all the switching gear that existed.

I'd like to finish this car over the next week if I can find the time and sort this out then I can get around to registering it....

any help with this little problem I've encountered would be great.

 

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