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| mitchell g |
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hey guys, justy baught a set of rda slotted rotors for my el, just crious as what i need when i replace the rotors?
Cheers Mitch |
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| Pakrat |
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New wheel bearings, the rotors will have the cups in them already, htb grease, new quality pads so you don't rape you're rotors, new HUb seals, 2 split pins, some brake cleaner to clean down the rotors some clean rags, a brake caliper separating tool or a g clamp or big multigrips whatever you got, some brake fluid invade you need o bleed it
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| mitchell g |
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no worries thanks man, i have new pads getting picked up today from the post office
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| phongus |
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If your bearings are fine, no need to replace them. Give them a good clean to remove all the old grease and re-pack them good with HTB grease, but as they say, if it's out, might as well change it for a peace of mind.
If you do end up replacing the bearings, buy a bearing kit from your local auto shop. I think Burson sell them for $25. The kit comes with bearings, cups and hub seal...you obviously will need one for each side making a total of $50ish. Regarding the cup of the bearings...I suggest you remove the existing cup from the new rotors (assuming they come with cups) and use the matching cups from the bearing kit. Not sure if it makes any difference, but I much prefer to have the same cup/bearing combination from the same company. Never know what cup brand they use...quality should be similar though...you hope. While you're at it, do a brake fluid change too. Probably hasn't been done before...so drain the old fluid out, while it's out you can push the brake pistons in easier. The downside with changing the whole lot at the same time is that you won't know what improved your braking...so next time you won't know what to change to improve it when it starts to wear out, but that's more of a knowledge thing. After you did the whole thing, make sure you bed them in for best results  .
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| mitchell g |
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we don't have bursons in mackay will have to go to repco or one of the local businesses, bearings will be done, but will leazve the fluid for now,
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| Pakrat |
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The cups are fine to use. Make sure you properly preload you're new bearings and remember to take you're brake fluid resvior cap off and take a little fluid out, saves a mess and I have seen mastercylinders leak after pushing back pistons and not removing the cap.
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| mitchell g |
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Pakrat wrote: The cups are fine to use. Make sure you properly preload you're new bearings and remember to take you're brake fluid resvior cap off and take a little fluid out, saves a mess and I have seen mastercylinders leak after pushing back pistons and not removing the cap. yeah i did front brake pads at christmas time excpet rotors have wraped since then |
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| Pakrat |
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New pads either way. And make sure you're caliper slides are nice an free moving
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| mitchell g |
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yeah i checked my rears and i'm pretty sure they are almost gone
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| cjh |
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Make sure your caliper slides are free. no busted slide boots, brake fliud is changed while doing the job, check to see if the bleeder nipples aren't blocked, or been overtightened and squashed the bleeder holes in the nipples.
Check condition and placement of the shims that the pads slide over.....stick them down with a bit of Grey Maxx silicone. Replace wheel bearings, and repack with anything other than Castrol HTB....it is crap, I wouldn't use it if it was given to me. Use a Lithium Complex Base grease for good results.....HTB is NOT water resistant in any way. The original grease Ford used was a Moly looking grease, and they hardly put any in.....bearings were shot by 50,000km. The grease seals go in till they stop.....if you leave them flush, they will burn, and the water will get in.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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| mitchell g |
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cjh wrote: The grease seals go in till they stop.....if you leave them flush, they will burn, and the water will get in. huh? thats just confused me |
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| phongus |
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mitchell g wrote: cjh wrote: The grease seals go in till they stop.....if you leave them flush, they will burn, and the water will get in. huh? thats just confused me As in tap the grease seal all the way in until it stops. The surface of the seal should not be sitting flush with the rotor...
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| mitchell g |
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oh ok, i get ya now
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| Troy |
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make something pretty simple, sound complicated lol...you also need a torque wrench
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| mitchell g |
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yeah got one of them and a work shop manual
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