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EL falcon manual gearbox removal 

 

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 Post subject: EL falcon manual gearbox removal
Posted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 5:40 pm 
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Ride: 92 EB- 2001 AU

Location: newcastle
NSW, Australia

hey guys i have to pull my gearbox out to put a new clutch in it and i was wondering if their was a guide on how to do it?

 

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Posted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 6:10 pm 
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Ride: 2.0 Turbo VW

Power: 142 rwkw

Location: Seaford State:
VIC, Australia

Its very easy, I replaced my gearbox on Monday, took 2 hours to remove and refit.

Preventative measure... bearings/seals.


Gearbox Removal:

Firstly drive up on ramps or stand the car up on stands.
Lift the gear boot up and remove the underlay.
Undo the gear lever (2x10mm)
Disconnect the negative battery terminal. (1x10mm)
Drain Oil (gearbox) (3/8th hex)
Undo and remove the tail shaft. (4x15mm + 18mm)
Undo the exhaust bracket/cross member rod (2x13mm)
Put a scissor jack under the bell housing to stop the engine falling on the firewall.
Undo the gearbox from the bell housing. (4x15mm)
Undo the rear engine mount (gearbox engine mount) (2x13mm)
Be prepared to hold the 30kg box. and slide it out (towards the rear)

Clean up, relax and then start unbolting the bell housing.

Bell housing Removal:

Undo the starter motor. (3x13mm)
Remove the Inspection plate and clutch cable guide bracket. (3x13mm)
Remove Clutch cable dust cover.
Remove Clutch cable.
Undo the lower bolts on the bell housing (2x13mm)
Relocate the scissor jack under the sump (with an old shoe or something to protect the sump)
Undo the bell housing bolts (6x19mm) you'll need a few extensions and a knuckle uni.

Remove Bell housing.

Clutch Removal:

Loosen all 6 bolts (13mm) equally around 1 revolution at a time.
Yes i know its old and you can just undo them all and who cares?! but its better to get in the habit automatically.

Its best to remove the flywheel and get it machined whilst your replacing the clutch, so that's a few more bolts and time, but im sure 90% of people just wipe them clean or even a but of sandpaper and slap the new one in.

Its also a good idea to replace the thrust bearing and spigot bearing to (try use a genuine item) around $30 for spigot and $50 for thrust.

To remove the pilot/spigot bearing, pack it full of grease as much as you can! find a dowel the same size of the hole and hit the dowel with a hammer quickly, the grease will soon push the bearing out.

I hope this helps.

 

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Posted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 9:03 pm 
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Age: 67

Posts: 190

Joined: 15th Oct 2008

Location: Bumsville
QLD, Australia

Krytox wrote:
Its very easy, I replaced my gearbox on Monday, took 2 hours to remove and refit.

Preventative measure... bearings/seals.


Gearbox Removal:

Firstly drive up on ramps or stand the car up on stands.
Lift the gear boot up and remove the underlay.
Undo the gear lever (2x10mm)
Disconnect the negative battery terminal. (1x10mm)
Drain Oil (gearbox) (3/8th hex)
Undo and remove the tail shaft. (4x15mm + 18mm)
Undo the exhaust bracket/cross member rod (2x13mm)
Put a scissor jack under the bell housing to stop the engine falling on the firewall.
Undo the gearbox from the bell housing. (4x15mm)
Undo the rear engine mount (gearbox engine mount) (2x13mm)
Be prepared to hold the 30kg box. and slide it out (towards the rear)

Clean up, relax and then start unbolting the bell housing.

Bell housing Removal:

Undo the starter motor. (3x13mm)
Remove the Inspection plate and clutch cable guide bracket. (3x13mm)
Remove Clutch cable dust cover.
Remove Clutch cable.
Undo the lower bolts on the bell housing (2x13mm)
Relocate the scissor jack under the sump (with an old shoe or something to protect the sump)
Undo the bell housing bolts (6x19mm) you'll need a few extensions and a knuckle uni.

Remove Bell housing.

Clutch Removal:

Loosen all 6 bolts (13mm) equally around 1 revolution at a time.
Yes i know its old and you can just undo them all and who cares?! but its better to get in the habit automatically.

Its best to remove the flywheel and get it machined whilst your replacing the clutch, so that's a few more bolts and time, but im sure 90% of people just wipe them clean or even a but of sandpaper and slap the new one in.

Its also a good idea to replace the thrust bearing and spigot bearing to (try use a genuine item) around $30 for spigot and $50 for thrust.

To remove the pilot/spigot bearing, pack it full of grease as much as you can! find a dowel the same size of the hole and hit the dowel with a hammer quickly, the grease will soon push the bearing out.

I hope this helps.


Although there is an Auto to Manual Conversion guide (http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopi ... light=auto manual) this is a much simplier version for just the mechanical side. Top stuff mate! I no I'll be saving a copy... if you dont mind that is *cough* C O P Y I N G... PLEASE WAIT *ding*

:D

Cheers mate
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Posted: Thu Nov 06, 2008 9:11 pm 
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Age: 28

Posts: 107

Joined: 24th Jul 2008

Gallery: 5 images

Ride: 92 EB- 2001 AU

Location: newcastle
NSW, Australia

thanx man much appreciated i was actually very suprised that their wasnt already a sticky'd thread onhow to do this anywayz

cheers man will make the job easier

 

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