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EL, s**t brakes, how to improve? 

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 10, 2006 11:47 am 
Getting Side Ways
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You could trying making a brace for the master cylinder, they do flex quite a bit in heavy breaking.

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 10, 2006 11:59 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Sturmovik wrote:
You could trying making a brace for the master cylinder, they do flex quite a bit in heavy breaking.


The only thing that worries me about a brace is in the event of an offset frontal accident - if braced to the strut, I'm worried it could push the brake pedal violently upward into the cabin. Is there other methods of bracing elsewhere from the strut tower?
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Posted: Sun Dec 10, 2006 12:44 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Bozz wrote:
samftr wrote:
oh sheet, if its bottoming out now, whats the seals like in each brake caliper? does it bottom out after a few pumps of the pedal?


Its only bottoming out on some freshly bitumened very grippy surfaces. There is no brake fluid loss and the master cylinder isn't leaking, the pedal doesn't sink if you push heavily on it for a few minutes. The ABS works on most surfaces and will lock/unlock the wheels so on most surfaces the brakes are adequate, its just that I want them better.
master cyl. should not bottom out,may be worn seals or scored bores in master cylinder------braking ratios are about 65-35----front rear and i suspect a pressure loss in master,you only move a few ccs of fluid to lock brakes.

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 10, 2006 12:45 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 66

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Ride: EF-XR8chaser

Location: wollongong
NSW, Australia

Bozz wrote:
samftr wrote:
oh sheet, if its bottoming out now, whats the seals like in each brake caliper? does it bottom out after a few pumps of the pedal?


Its only bottoming out on some freshly bitumened very grippy surfaces. There is no brake fluid loss and the master cylinder isn't leaking, the pedal doesn't sink if you push heavily on it for a few minutes. The ABS works on most surfaces and will lock/unlock the wheels so on most surfaces the brakes are adequate, its just that I want them better.
master cyl. should not bottom out,may be worn seals or scored bores in master cylinder------braking ratios are about 65-35----front rear and i suspect a pressure loss in master,you only move a few ccs of fluid to lock brakes.

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 10, 2006 12:50 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: R32 GTR

Location: Brackistan
VIC, Australia

hans hartman wrote:
Bozz wrote:
samftr wrote:
oh sheet, if its bottoming out now, whats the seals like in each brake caliper? does it bottom out after a few pumps of the pedal?


Its only bottoming out on some freshly bitumened very grippy surfaces. There is no brake fluid loss and the master cylinder isn't leaking, the pedal doesn't sink if you push heavily on it for a few minutes. The ABS works on most surfaces and will lock/unlock the wheels so on most surfaces the brakes are adequate, its just that I want them better.
master cyl. should not bottom out,may be worn seals or scored bores in master cylinder------braking ratios are about 65-35----front rear and i suspect a pressure loss in master,you only move a few ccs of fluid to lock brakes.


So you think it may also be worth pulling apart the MC to check?

I've seen MC's that leak, the paint is lifted underneath on the booster and firewall, this one is fine and isn't externally leaking but you saying they can leak between chambers?
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Posted: Mon Dec 11, 2006 6:28 am 
Tyre Shredder
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I have the exact same problem with my EL, only just passes rego every year because of bad brakes. I have replaced pads, booster (broken diaphram), rotors, flexible brake lines and also rebuilt calipers (2 fronts were seized). The only thing left it could be is the master cylinder is leaking between chambers...

 

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Posted: Mon Dec 11, 2006 8:09 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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I think thats the problem with mine - master cylinder on its way out. but my EA had better brakes than my EF? WTF? 4 tonne of trailer and garbage and some silly moll pulles in front of me and it still pulled up alright.

 

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