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Expensive play in steering! 

 

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 Post subject: Expensive play in steering!
Posted: Sun May 15, 2005 1:47 pm 
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Hey All! I've had play in my steering since I bougtthe car last year, but now its worse in excess of 30mm! The tierods seem to be fine, but i thinh its the plays in the uni joint just before the rack at the end of the steering shaft...Ive been to all the spares places and they said I can only get it single peice with the shaft for $300! IS there any way to repair the joint? It seems to be to pin has flogged out...

thanks.

 

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 Post subject: Re: Expensive play in steering!
Posted: Sun May 15, 2005 2:00 pm 
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Smokey...Retired! wrote:
Hey All! I've had play in my steering since I bougtthe car last year, but now its worse in excess of 30mm! The tierods seem to be fine, but i thinh its the plays in the uni joint just before the rack at the end of the steering shaft...Ive been to all the spares places and they said I can only get it single peice with the shaft for $300! IS there any way to repair the joint? It seems to be to pin has flogged out...thanks.
Yeah, had the same with a friend's EF Futura - been through the same routine as you've had - got a 2nd hand steering intermediate assy from the wreckers - out of an EA by memory, fixed the excessive play issue. Be sure you compare units before fitting your replacement - I remember being shown a unit that was different - out of a Fairlane I think. Also give your replacement a good workout to check out the uni's, etc before buying . . . . .

 

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 Post subject: Re: Expensive play in steering!
Posted: Sun May 15, 2005 2:06 pm 
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Smokey...Retired! wrote:
Hey All! I've had play in my steering since I bougtthe car last year, but now its worse in excess of 30mm! The tierods seem to be fine, but i thinh its the plays in the uni joint just before the rack at the end of the steering shaft...Ive been to all the spares places and they said I can only get it single peice with the shaft for $300! IS there any way to repair the joint? It seems to be to pin has flogged out...

thanks.


Your best off getting parts from Macarthur Parts Plus in Narellan in Sydney. (02) 4646-1288.. ask for Tony and tel them your from Fordmods.

It could be in your rack as well, a second hand rack is about $80-90. Otherwise the intermediate shafts wear out pretty quickly as i have the same prob and have to change mine yet again (3rd time now)
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Posted: Sun May 15, 2005 10:09 pm 
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Check that the play is not in the rack itself. Underneath where the shaft goes into the rack is a big lock nut (32mm I think) and a 19mm Hex recess. Mine had lots of play too and this was the problem. I just put my big shifter onto the locknut and then GENTLE tightened up the locknut with a 19mm head bolt untill the play was gone. If you tighten the adjusting pad too much it will bind when you steer so its easiest done with 2 people.
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Posted: Mon May 16, 2005 12:36 am 
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once had play in mine it ended up being the shaft from the rack to firewall. Ford quoted $300, no one repairs them and no one sells after market. ended up getting one from the wreckers for $25

 

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Posted: Mon May 16, 2005 1:29 am 
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Sorry to maybe hijack your thread a little smokey, but seeing the replies so far know their stuff I thought I'd ask a Q about my car.

My steering is pretty sensitive, when you pull the wheel a little it seems to steer fine (in my opinion with limited knowledge), however the steering does feel pretty light, especially after a 1/2 or 3/4 turn on the wheel....am I just being pedantic or what? Car is lowered about 3"s and running 17" wheels.

 

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Posted: Tue May 17, 2005 12:21 am 
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Hey. Well I dont think I can use one out of a EA because the shafts are different size.....hahaha thats ok FTR-xr6! IS that ur real number plate? Umm wel my XR6 is lowered & I have 18 inch wheels & still feels pretty light aswel

 

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Blast from the past.....
1973 HQ 253 Premier sedan, 1991 EA 3.9lt 30 anniversary sedan
1978 XC 250 Falcon 500 sedan, 1988 EA 3.9lt Fairmont sedan
1994 EF 4lt Gli Wagon 1995 EF 4lt XR6 sedan (now gas~!)
1996 Ef Gli sedan, 1988 GPX 250r, 1999 ZX9R Ninja

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Posted: Tue May 17, 2005 12:59 am 
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Yup, it sure is my # plate.

I'm just gonna see how the steering is when I put the twin pot package on with an adj swaybar and some nolethane bushes.

 

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Posted: Tue May 17, 2005 2:00 pm 
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FTR-XR6 wrote:
Yup, it sure is my # plate.

I'm just gonna see how the steering is when I put the twin pot package on with an adj swaybar and some nolethane bushes.


Have you got a camber kit? How is your tyre wear. if it's light when straight then loads up in a hard turn you could have too much camber on the front. (pulling the outside edge of your wheels away from the road in a straight line). Larger wider wheels will make this worse. Also made more noticable by alot of castor but I'm not sure this would have been affercted with your lowering.

 

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Posted: Wed May 18, 2005 2:58 am 
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Spork wrote:
Have you got a camber kit? How is your tyre wear. if it's light when straight then loads up in a hard turn you could have too much camber on the front. (pulling the outside edge of your wheels away from the road in a straight line). Larger wider wheels will make this worse. Also made more noticable by alot of castor but I'm not sure this would have been affercted with your lowering.


Yup got a camber kit, tyre wear is fine now, but early on it did understeer a bit causing me to have to replace one of the front tyres. It's pretty much light all the time.

 

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Posted: Wed May 18, 2005 3:11 am 
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Adjust the rack?
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Posted: Wed May 18, 2005 10:37 pm 
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How?

 

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Posted: Thu May 19, 2005 12:27 am 
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Underneath the car, probably underneath your brake pedal area, is the rack, on there is a big 20mm?? around that size allen key, its recessed about 10mm, you need to get something in there, with no weight on the front end, as in jacked off ground, and tighten it up, while wriggling the steering wheel, to see when the slack is taken up, to far and it will bind, its easy to do, i just did it, had heaps of slack in mine, tightened it up a eighth of a turn.
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Posted: Mon May 23, 2005 10:37 am 
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My uni joint was f**k a month or two ago, had a massive dead spot in the middle.

You can only get a new uni joint genuine for $300, so i got a second hand one instead for 65 bucks, and ive had no issues.

 

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Posted: Mon May 23, 2005 10:37 am 
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My uni joint was f**k a month or two ago, had a massive dead spot in the middle.

You can only get a new uni joint genuine for $300, so i got a second hand one instead for 65 bucks, and ive had no issues.

 

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Who needs an XR6 when you've got a corolla wagon :sad:

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