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Got my new X-Drilled and slotted DBA's on 

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 9:59 pm 
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well i got my ABS X-drilled and slotted rotors yesty and fitted them today along with some new side mirrors.

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 10:02 pm 
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some more pics

 

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Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2006 3:31 pm 
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A quick tip to ALL would be mechanics working on brakes. After bleeding the brakes (in The correct order LR, RR, LF, RF, ) remove the switch on the master cylinder, (NOT the front cruise switch) pump the brakes to reset the compensation piston, and replace the switch. this will help with pedal height and firmness :D :D

 

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Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2006 3:55 pm 
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once again bob another helpful hint. cheers

But it didn't work for mine the pedal still has it's soft feel.

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 9:23 am 
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delete!

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 10:25 am 
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If you knew what you were doing you wouldn't be on her asking questions :)
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Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 10:26 am 
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her/her
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Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 10:27 am 
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Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 2:19 pm 
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GTBob wrote:
A quick tip to ALL would be mechanics working on brakes. After bleeding the brakes (in The correct order LR, RR, LF, RF, ) remove the switch on the master cylinder, (NOT the front cruise switch) pump the brakes to reset the compensation piston, and replace the switch. this will help with pedal height and firmness :D :D


car off or on ???

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 2:45 pm 
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If i flush my brake system, i use about 10 fills of the master cyl, or more in needed, cant do it with a few, never had a spongy pedal
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Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 4:24 pm 
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What technique are you using to bleen the brakes?

If you're doing it by yourself, then you'll need a pressure bleeding kit. You can't do it manually by yourself otherwise when you take your foot off the pedal to go and close the bleed screw, you get air in the lines!

You also need to watch the fluid coming out of the brakes by connecting a clear plastic hose to the bleed screw. Then you can see the air bubbles in the fluid.
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Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 12:35 pm 
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you can do it yourself pretty easyly, two ways i know that work,

clear tube clamped to nipple, other end has some gladwrap wrapped on it and a rubber band on it to hold it on tube, this is then submersed into new fluid.

get yourself oneman brake bleed hose, just check the valve on it as i have seen a dud.

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 2:48 pm 
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Due to the design of the bleed nipples you can one man bleed quite successfully on the ef/el etc. I have done it several times no probs. I have come in a bit late but it's my belief that the abs sensor ring could have been removed from the old rotors and fitted to the new ones CAREFULLY ... service kits from ford for the calipers include new mounting bolts and are only about $15 each.. Highly recommended as they tend to stick regularly. ALWAYS replace the oil seals whenever removing discs. very cheap and important. I am probably just repeating things others have written but after doing the brakes several times on both my falcons.. one with abs, one without. I have had contamination issues when I didn't change the seals. I know what it's like to be fixing car on sunday in a country area with no parts available local and have to get to jobs on monday. the motto is to be a boy scout and get everything you need first.... most rubbery bits are cheap and die quickly.
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 Post subject: Re: Got my new X-Drilled and slotted DBA's on
Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 4:24 pm 
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Davehimself wrote:
P.S i also put brand spanka new Ferodo racing anti fade pads on too.


That could be your pedal feel problem....

What pads did you have in it before you put in the Ferodo's...?
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Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2006 8:41 am 
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the pads i took off still had some meat on them but they looked like my Old EL's stocko's and they didn't have any names on them so i don't know.

Going to try re-bleeding the brakes today as when i'm at the lights i can push the pedal all the way to the floor (albeit pretty hard to do) but i can get the pedal to the floor which i'm pretty sure it's not sposed to do.

 

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