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How hard is your clutch? 

 

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Posted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 9:51 pm 
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Thanks for all the input guys. Yes I have already adjusted the clutch a million times.

Tomorrow I'm going to pull the box out again and have a real good look at the pressure plate etc and maybe put my old pressure plate in just to rule out possibilities.

 

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Posted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 10:33 pm 
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mine was pretty heavy too but im used to it. I rerouted my cable around my engine mount the other day, clutch is much much nicer. Not sure how they were run from factory, my extractors might kill the cable soon (am keeping an eye on it)

oh and i know of people rooting the auto pedalbox with the mal wood pin.

 

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Posted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 10:47 pm 
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My EF is pretty heavy, I've adjusted it & it doesn't feel too bad too me, but anyone else who drives it hates it..

My AU was really light, people thought it was hydraulic!

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 12:12 am 
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My XH runs the std 6 bolt pressure plate - very light.
My EL runs a heavy duty 3 bolt pressure plate, a lot more harder than std. Pedal should be 140+-3mm from pedal pad top to the carpet. The throwout bearing should lightly contact the pressure plate (this is what the spring on the clutch pedal does). It shouldn't be too tight, as the bearing can get hot and seize over time.

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 7:50 pm 
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my cars been a manual from the factory(89) but i replaced the motor from an auto donor n did the conversion with the ecu. clutch let go with mpfi conversion so new kit n cable n it's still hard as it was when i bought it. welded the firewall up (almost burnt my car down)

it actually got worse since the new clutch, more direct feel through pedal but it's like it's always engaged. it's not a problem when you know about it but not too many people can drive it.

curse henry for not using hydraulic clutches. the older ones had them why did they stop ?

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 3:35 am 
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good question why did ford stop the hydraulic clutches.....I love Manual driving, but endless Pedal box, Cable, clevis, bent pedal, firewall, bent clutch fork,burnt out thrust bearing to mention just a few funnily enough- really has put me off- I now prefer driving a nice smooth auto... F**k ford!!

 

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Posted: Sat Mar 08, 2008 12:12 am 
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the BAs are hydraulic...

mines to heavy compared to a few mates 5 speed falcons... just wondering how hard it is to change the clutch cable and is this the first place i should start...? also whats the price on a cable... (none on ebay so ford i guess)

 

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Posted: Sat Mar 08, 2008 8:20 pm 
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did you put some grease on the input shaft before you put the thrush bearing on? as it needs some lube to make it slide easier. this might be why it is so hard .the thrush bearing might not be slideing smoothly .
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Posted: Sun Mar 09, 2008 1:00 am 
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i just recently bought a new clutch cable, standard clutch and flywheel and it has reduced the strength by at least 50%
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Posted: Sun Mar 09, 2008 9:08 am 
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MARK.TANIA wrote:
did you put some grease on the input shaft before you put the thrush bearing on? as it needs some lube to make it slide easier. this might be why it is so hard .the thrush bearing might not be slideing smoothly .
will need more info... picks would be handy

 

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 Post subject: mal wood
Posted: Sun Mar 09, 2008 9:38 am 
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Hey guys, Dont mean to take over the thread but i was wondering if the pedal box still cracks if it is the auto box with the mal wood clutch pin?

Cos mine does tick when i push the clutch in but i had a look and eveything seemed to be alright. any help muchly appreciated!!!

Cheers

 

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 Post subject: Re: mal wood
Posted: Sun Mar 09, 2008 10:22 am 
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EF-MattyB wrote:

Cos mine does tick when i push the clutch in but i had a look and eveything seemed to be alright. any help muchly appreciated!!!


Mine does that and found its just the pedal spring so not a worry. Apparantely all the pedal boxes can crack regardless if your using the mal wood pin or not.
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 Post subject: Re: mal wood
Posted: Sun Mar 09, 2008 11:26 am 
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EF-MattyB wrote:
Hey guys, Dont mean to take over the thread but i was wondering if the pedal box still cracks if it is the auto box with the mal wood clutch pin?

Cos mine does tick when i push the clutch in but i had a look and eveything seemed to be alright. any help muchly appreciated!!!

Cheers


Depends on which variant you have. If you have the pin kit with the big bar that bolts to the pedal box, then I can't see it breaking. If not, I've heard they still bend boxes easy.

 

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Posted: Sun Mar 09, 2008 11:38 am 
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Yep, my friend Mark has destroyed his pedalbox twice. He's running an auto pedal box with a mal wood pin.

As for my car, I've currently got a cracked firewall :(

Gee I wish converting to hydraulic was an easier job

 

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Posted: Sun Mar 09, 2008 7:48 pm 
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A lot of the probs with cracking firewalls, breaking pedal boxes is the clutch cable isn't adjusted properly. Another prob is the cable getting cooked by the extractors when fitted.
The firewall and the pedal box in my factory fitted 5sp 88EA has never been repaired/replaced.
Also I have rerouted the cable to give a better feel and less friction through slighter curves.

 

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