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how low can my xh go 

 

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 Post subject: how low can my xh go
Posted: Tue May 20, 2008 10:06 pm 
Stock as a Rock
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i recently got 20's put on my car and its sitting a bit higher than it did before. the front is ok, the top of the tyre is just above the the wheel arch but the back is kinda high. the front has lowered king springs and im pretty sure the back is stock well for an s pack. what blocks are available or can the springs get reset as they are failly flat as they are or i was thiking about geting the bracket for the shakle relocated up higher and get the rear eyelet shortened to raise the leafs closer to the chasis
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Posted: Wed May 21, 2008 7:55 pm 
Tyre Shredder
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Just reset your rear springs to height your after, reset better then blocks and would only cost $200 or so i think
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Posted: Thu May 22, 2008 9:02 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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or a few bags of cement in the back!

 

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Posted: Fri May 23, 2008 12:14 am 
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If you don't carry heavy loads regularly the best solution might be to remove a leaf, or two if one isn't enough. The more performance Ford want from their utes the lower they make the payload, i.e. softer springs, and fit swaybars or stiffer ones.

Lowering blocks can be a more accurate, easier and cheaper way to lower the rear than reset springs, but they increase the chance of axle windup and hop.

 

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Posted: Fri May 23, 2008 2:57 pm 
Stock as a Rock
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i decided to go with the lowering blocks option. its cheap and effective. the rear sits 3 inches lower so now it has a more leveler stance but is a tad lower in the rear. still drives the same. axle tramp is not an issue as i dont have enough power and its stil an auto. i do plan to go lower as i have atleast 2 inches to go before ii will have cleance issuses. ill be upgrading to reset leafs to go lower. when i convert to manual i will probably need the anti tramp bars or something similar. i think i have heard or chains being used to prevent this. are they legal? if im still goin to use blocks ill invest in a rear sway bar to stop things from moving around to much in the rear when conering or sliding
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Posted: Sun May 25, 2008 8:03 pm 
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Posted: Fri May 30, 2008 11:56 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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xhon20s wrote:
the rear sits 3 inches lower so now it has a more leveler stance but is a tad lower in the rear. . . i do plan to go lower as i have atleast 2 inches to go before ii will have cleance issuses.

I can't say much to that as i don't know your situation or even exactly which model you are talking about.
However, regarding road legality, i wonder if even an RTV could be lowered 5" and still be 4" above the ground.

Quote:
ill be upgrading to reset leafs to go lower.

A full leaf pack gives greater protection against windup and lateral movement,
but a thinner pack gives more squat and flexes easier and hence gives more traction under most conditions.

Quote:
when i convert to manual i will probably need the anti tramp bars or something similar. i think i have heard or chains being used to prevent this. are they legal?

I have never heard of or seen this. I don't know about their legal status.
My initial thought is that since chains work under tension they would best
be fitted behind the axle and would therefore travel in an arc that conflicts
with that of the axle. The front part of the leaf spring is what controls the
arc of the axle. But maybe they work okay fitted in front. Making their
length adjustable would probably be a good thing, and maybe the pickup
point too.

Quote:
if im still goin to use blocks ill invest in a rear sway bar to stop things from moving around to much in the rear when conering or sliding

Properly fitting blocks shouldn't have any real effect on lateral movement
when cornering. It doesn't already have a swaybar? A rear swaybar may
reduce twitchiness, but generally won't affect lateral movement (a rear
swaybar will however increases rear roll stiffness and hence oversteer). A
watts linkage, or panhard rod, or trailing A-arm link, or a like setup, are
ways to reduce lateral axle movement.

 

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