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 Post subject: | Installing a diff | Swap Diff | Fitting 3.45s | PicsUpSoon
Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 6:48 pm 
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Ok before I start this thread- is there already a doco or something on swapping a diff?

My complete 3.45 LSD Diff arrived this morning and am pretty eager to get it in, although I wont be doing anything today cause the day is already over and the night is about to begin :D

So first thing's first, I assume (it's not nessesary) the wheels have to come off and there are a few bolts on both the left and right hand sides of the upper part of the diff holding it to the car.

I guessing that a diff change is pretty straightforward mechanical, might have a few awquad parts like lowering and raising but part from that it's easy?

This is a quick rundown a pulled from the net, guessing you would do that and then again in reverse?

-Jack up the Car
-Drain the differential fluid
-Once drained, place the transmission in gear and make sure e-brake is engaged. Unbolt driveshaft from differential. 4 bolts 12 or 14mm.
-Remove sway bar and lower your exhaust by removing it off the hanger. (Makes your life easier.)
-There are 2 17mm bolts holding the differential to the underside of the car. Loosen those two bolts, do not fully remove.
-Remove (4) 17mm bolts from back of differential.
-Before lowering the differential try to move the axles out of the way.
-Now when you're ready take off the two 17mm bolts you had loosened and carefully lower the differential with the jack.

It looks like that description is if you are only removing the centre? but i'm not sure...

Any input will go along way as this will be my first diff swap and hopefully this thread can help other at least 1 other newb :)

Thanks Guys!

Last edited by InspectorRectum on Fri Nov 14, 2008 9:26 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 8:38 pm 
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This deserves a sticky

 

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Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 9:25 pm 
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Alright that's it for tonight, havnt done much but it's a start. I moved the diff down to the back shed which was a bit of a mission but rolling it along the grass makes it easy.

I then had a look over the diff just to check that it was in good enough condition to be fitted to my car. This is the time if you want a nice shiny diff to clean it up and make it so.

The diff came with the discs still attached so they had to come off. There's 1 screw (mine was a Philps head) on either disc holding it in place. One of the bolts was threaded and one was just sitting loosly in the screw hole. So I took the loose one out and attempted to remove the threaded one with an impact screw driver, but with no luck. If anything it just damaged the screw even more. I thought I'd have to get my mech around here to drill it out or something but after finding a flathead screwdriver that would fit it came out surprisingly easily. I did spray some WD40 prior to trying to remove it though.

After that the discs were ready to come off, after 200,000clicks they kinda get a bit stuck on there even without the screw so tapping the disc evenly with a hammer is probably the only ways to get it off. Again one came off no worries and the other needed a fair bit of force applied to it through the hammer. A bit more WD40 down in behind the disc helps too.

Next was to check that the brakes were still working and without obstruction, cause my diff came with brake lines attached, as well as the 2 sway bars. They seem fine.

Well, now that the diff has been preped the fun begins :roll: ...tomorrow

If anyone's got any advice for me before I jump head first into this tomorrow morning I would love it hear it now if ya know what I mean :P
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Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 9:33 pm 
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Ride: 2.0 Turbo VW

Power: 142 rwkw

Location: Seaford State:
VIC, Australia

Diff Removal:

Sedan.

Jack car up.
Support car on Stands.
Release Handbrake.
Remove Rear Wheels.
Undo and remove the tail shaft. (4x15mm + 18mm)
Undo Diff Breather Pipe.
Remove Hand brake Cable.(chassis to Diff lever)
Remove Rear Brake Calipers. (Zip Tie them to Lower Control Arm)
Remove Rotors.
Remove Rotor dust plates because you need to replace the ones on the diff you dragged in the garage and bent to the s**t out of)
Remove Watts link arms. (easier to remove than just undoing the diff hat end only)
Place Small trolley jack under diff center.
Undo Lower Shocker Bolts.
Loosen Upper and lower control arm bolts.
Remove Lower control arm Bolts first (diff end).
Remove Upper Control arm bolts last so your hands are above when if it drops.
Lower Diff and remove each spring from shockers.

Installation is reverse.
However Always install bolts 90% then when the cars on its own weight Tighten the bolts up. This will prevent bushes from chewing out.

Use a thread locker on the tail shaft bolts.
Check or replace fluids on lever surface.

 

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Last edited by Krytox on Fri Nov 14, 2008 9:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 9:40 pm 
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Use a mash and hit the rotor hub.
If you havent the correct size Phillips head screwdriver, use a Large flat to prevent the screw from rounding.

Its also better to actually remove the shockers. this requires a few more minutes as the interior covers need to be removed.

Makes it easier to remove springs, and there's no risk of scratching the ram surfaces and if the shocks are gassed there's less maneuvering to drop the diff past them.

that's all I can think off at this stage.

Have fun!

 

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Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 9:51 pm 
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haha thanks mate, doesnt seem like it's gonna be that hard. just, what are the rotor dust plates? cause i dont think i bent anything dragging/rolling it over...
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Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 1:56 am 
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Ok now everything is almost done but THE TAILSHAFT IS TOO SHORT... ?? what? could anyone explain what I need to do??

EDIT: lol figured it out soon after typing the post, the tailshaft slides in and out.
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Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 5:37 am 
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All done. :D

She's goes like she always should have. She's a tough b!tch this one, she's actually got some balls now ;)
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Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 5:54 am 
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I used standard Castrol EPX 80w/90 diff oil and got it into the diff using a funnel and garden hose.

It's not really a big job but because the bolts are so tight and some in arkward positions it makes undoing and redoing them a time consuming task. A second set of hands is almost a must.

You'll need a range of tools from size 8mm-27mm sockets and/or spanners (rackets make life easier) as well as a shift or two and an extension bar for the sockets. At least 1 trolley jack and 2 stands, and a plank of wood to put on the trolley jack when your lowering or rasing the diffm makes it alot more stable. It's almost impossible to rasie the diff by yourself.

If your rotor bolts are seized just drill them out and wack the rotors off and the bolt head out (if it didnt fall out) with a hammer, you can either get bolts from somewhere else or say f#^* it.

That's pretty much all the extra stuff I can think of at the moment.

No pics... couldnt be focked.
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Posted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 6:42 pm 
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good thread this \
info is really helpful as im about to change the diff in my fairmont

Drifty

 

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Posted: Tue Dec 23, 2008 3:21 am 
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Location: Central Coast
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There must be a reason why LSD oil is recommended for use in LSDs by manufacturers and oil companies alike.
I use the LSD specific oil in my diffs, not the standard 80w/90, you may not have an LSD for long.
Cheers,
Mac

 

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Posted: Tue Dec 23, 2008 9:07 am 
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yea im running the good stuff in mine now

an goin better then ever

Drifty

 

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