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Is there a common problem for Hard Clutch Pedal? 

 

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Posted: Tue Aug 29, 2006 12:30 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Location: melbourne
VIC, Australia

i drive my old mans truck sometimes and i have found the pedal on that to be on par with a couple of mates manual EF/EL's, there a bloody heavy clutch in the fords but you get used to it
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Posted: Tue Aug 29, 2006 10:34 am 
Smokin em up
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Age: 37

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Location: sydney
NSW, Australia

My old lady has an EF and had an EB, both manuals, both snapped the clutch pedal.
Id 2nd everything said on this thread, after replacing the cable on the EF, it helped a great deal.
Could not believe my mum could put up with the heavy clutch for so long! lol, it was heavier than the centreforce clutch in my XC!
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Posted: Tue Aug 29, 2006 1:04 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Location: Sydney
NSW, Australia

FAST-XR wrote:
i persisted with a heacy clutch until it broke through the fire wall!
i fixed that up put a new cable and it was all good, until about a week ago my clutch pedal squeeks every time i press it in, is this my peddal box going? what else would cause it to be squeeky?


when my clutch pedal broke my pedal box it was squeaking. the squeking was caused by the clutch pedal travelling instead of straight it was angled towads my front front right tyre and was eating away at the pedal box so get under there and see if it has broken something aswell
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Posted: Wed Sep 13, 2006 10:20 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Location: FNQ
QLD, Australia

I modified my clutch pedal arm: I moved the pin that the cable attaches to so that it's distance from the pedal pivot is slightly less - ie. I ground off the weld that holds that pin in it's hole in the pedal arm and knocked the pin out, then got a welder mate to fill the hole, then I drilled another hole immediately next to that original one (so we're not talking a big distance here - maybe 12mm) - in line with the axis of the pedal pivot - and had my mate reweld the pin into that new hole same as it was in the original one.

The improvement is huge - my clutch is an Extreme Clutches one (purple) and was not only very hard but worked a bit like an oil can - boink, boink ie. the engagement zone was very small - the leverage change has made the "throw" somewhat longer to operate the clutch and it all feels very standard and is lovely to drive.

Beware that as this improves your mechanical advantage and softens the pedal, it will actually INCREASE the stress on the pedal pivot pin - I'm using a Mal Wood pin in the original Auto trans pedal box and now it's gradually bending/cracking the box around the base flange of the pin - so I need to do the old pedal box beef up trick asap.

 

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96 EF Auto GLi - Bilstein Shocks - Adjustable Front sway bar - JMM Cam - TI Perf J3 - TCI 2500/3000 stall converter. 2015 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk.

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Posted: Thu Sep 14, 2006 6:56 pm 
Oompa Loompa
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Location: adelaide
SA, Australia

i put in an xtreme heavy duty clutch. works better and has a lighter pedal.

JIM
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Posted: Thu Sep 14, 2006 7:12 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Location: FNQ
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Yeah, the other (best) option is to fit a clutch that has larger plate than std - that way it's not only much stronger than even a heavy duty std sized clutch but also apparently much gentler pedal force (Mal Wood was telling me about this).

 

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96 EF Auto GLi - Bilstein Shocks - Adjustable Front sway bar - JMM Cam - TI Perf J3 - TCI 2500/3000 stall converter. 2015 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk.

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