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| shadsky_1 |
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I have a 1/96 EF Futura that has travelled 155,00 klm, it hasn't been driven hard and is well cared for and driven gently. I have noticed that when going over speed humps or like obstacles that a "clunk or knock" seems to come from the right side front suspension. This only happens if the speed hump is driven over a little faster than crawling speed. The noise is not real loud however I notice it. I have heard it a few other times when going over potholes etc. Any ideas of where to start looking. One other thing the side the noise appears to come from is out of alignment as the tyre is wearing on the outer edge. Thank's in advance for any advice.
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| rushed |
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could be many things
the best way to check these things is to go to a suspension shop and get the free ??-point check. |
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| asterix |
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Ball joints are the main cause of a clunk at low speeds...check them and all bushes and once any replacements are done, perform a wheel alignment and balance.
Also check the Steering Box bolts...one loose one and things can go horribly wrong 
_________________ Stock Standard AU I Fairmont Ghia..
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| trickeymick |
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i own a EL mine had the same drama.......check your struts see if they are leaking oil then check your ball joints
Mick |
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| hellbent_ef |
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Asterix, realy dont wanna be a nag, but last time I checked, he said EF, meaning steering rack, not box
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| joolz |
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Had a knock in mine a little while back. Ball joints, bushes and wheel bearings were fine. It ended up being worn rack ends.
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| dsnow_01 |
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had that prob in my old LTD worn d rubbers on sway bar...check all bushes
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| asterix |
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hellbent_ef wrote: Asterix, realy dont wanna be a nag, but last time I checked, he said EF, meaning steering rack, not box
 Eye sight has gone with age 
I only mentioned steering as I had an interesting clunking noise from the front of my old ZL Fairlane..and then "crunch" steering box came adrift. Moral of the story...dont let those noises continue unchecked. 
_________________ Stock Standard AU I Fairmont Ghia..
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| moody |
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I had a similar problem, check you upper suspension arm rubbers, mine were worn so i replaced with nolathene and not another noise.... if you dont know what the USA is, its where the ball joint conects the brake arm thingy...its the highest mount in the wheel arch.
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| ELV8 |
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Joolz just our of interest how much did it cost to get new rack ends put on?
I think thats the problem with mine. |
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| joolz |
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Ford wanted $54 each trade, went to Burson and picked them up for $41 a pair. You can change then yourself but will need a wheel alignment after as the toe will need to be done. Remember to take a rough measurement from the tie rod to the end of the rack so as you know about where to adjust the new ones up too. After you have them in measure from the inside of the tyres front and rear, it should be approx 0-1mm wider on the rear of the tyre (toe in) this will be ok then to drive to have them aligned correcty. Forgot to add that the boot on the rack has to be peeled back to gain access to the rack end nut, there is a locking washer than needs to be bent back to loosen the locking nut, the washer is then re-used.
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| 4.9 EF Futura |
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I had a nasty clunk every time i changed directions. Ended up being a socket extension sitting on the cross member
_________________ I promise..... I will never die. |
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| rushed |
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4.9 EF Futura wrote: I had a nasty clunk every time i changed directions. Ended up being a socket extension sitting on the cross member
lol fair effort. have you checked it yet, i fixed a friends car yesterday with loose rack bolts good as newish now. |
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| hellbent_ef |
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joolz wrote: Ford wanted $54 each trade, went to Burson and picked them up for $41 a pair. You can change then yourself but will need a wheel alignment after as the toe will need to be done. Remember to take a rough measurement from the tie rod to the end of the rack so as you know about where to adjust the new ones up too. After you have them in measure from the inside of the tyres front and rear, it should be approx 0-1mm wider on the rear of the tyre (toe in) this will be ok then to drive to have them aligned correcty. Forgot to add that the boot on the rack has to be peeled back to gain access to the rack end nut, there is a locking washer than needs to be bent back to loosen the locking nut, the washer is then re-used.
As a builder of power steering racks and pumps, I would strongly suggest not to re-se these washers that lock the rack ends on!!! Stilsons wrench is the best to use to take rack ends off. Once they are taken off, they can(not always) become very weak and will not hold!! When puttin a new washer on, you hammer the washer into place..you will see what and how when you take boots off......but DO NOT hit the steel shaft of the rack.....I will guarantee you leeks if that shaft is dented( even if it is hard to see.. Also, dont measure by the end of tie-rod end to rack. When taking the tie-rod end off rack end, count how many full revolutions you do....then you know how many to do when you put them back on. Also, If anyone wants, I can get the racks ends for $35 posted to you do via express post. With boots and straps add $10.
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| ef_gas |
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good one keep U mind
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