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Longer control arms, or shorter 

 

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 Post subject: Longer control arms, or shorter
Posted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 9:46 pm 
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Hi all, my diff angle is screwed, the diff pinion is pointing down, where as the driveshaft is level, this is why im gettin a shockin vibration.

I KNOW THIS FOR A FACT, SO DON'T SAYS TYRES OR NEED NEW DIFF.

But what Im searching for is longer upper control arms, or shorter lower control arms, this will bring the diff pinion up.

Has ultra lows.

 

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Posted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 10:09 pm 
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EF diffs don't give you the option to install the longer EL XR arms,

The EL has 3 provisons to install 3 different arms, you can drill and install the longer arms if you like,
This way.. you could retain you uppers and relocate them to optimise your angle. but you'd want to be pretty 'spot on'

 

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Posted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 11:28 pm 
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Heres a bit of trivia for ya.
ED XR control arms are the same length as EL arms.
ED XR arms mount a bit lower at the diff however, as far as I can tell (haven't had diffs next to each other
See if you can get someone with an EL diff to make a template of there mounting holes so you can redrill yours to match (IF required, I've never seen an EF diffs mounting points), then grab some EL control arms (nolathane do replacement items with nolathane bushes pre-pressed in, for a decent price).
Hopefully that fixes your pinion angle.

 

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Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 8:40 am 
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So in other words it would be easier to get an EL fairmont diff?


I dont like the idea of redrilling holes.

 

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Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 8:59 am 
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is this due to the superlow springs?

or have u f**k the diff hosing?

 

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Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 10:42 am 
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From memory the XR upper trailing arms are 350mm the same as the EL. The EF are 320mm. It would be easier to fit the EL fairmont ghia diff which is also LSD.
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Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 1:43 pm 
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redrilling the holes would make it the same as the tickford diff, no reason that would cause problems.

best way would be to undo the upper arms and work out where they would need to be to make the diff sit properly, then mark and drill those holes.
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Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 3:02 pm 
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hellbent_ef wrote:
So in other words it would be easier to get an EL fairmont diff?


I dont like the idea of redrilling holes.

What diff is in it now? Is it an LSD?
If you are after one, PM arm79, I'm pretty sure he will have a EL Ghia 3.45 LSD diff for sale soon, and I know he has some EL upper arms lying around.

 

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Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 6:36 pm 
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Disco Frank wrote:
is this due to the superlow springs?

or have u f**k the diff hosing?


Nah the diff is fine, its due to havin the ultra lows in the rear, the a*** sits lower than the front, so the uni's are always on an angle due to the diff pinion angle, and its givin me a constant vibration that just drives you crazy.

When you put power down theres nuthin, but when you just cruisin, its bloody shockin.

Had the car up on the 4 post hoist and seen that there is a massive angle there so, came to my own conclusion that longer upper arms will push the angle up.

So if the EL arms a longer by 30mm, I might look at gettin them just to start with, if I cant make them fit, ill look into the EL diff as well.

Oh the diff is also a single spinner, not sure I want a LSD yet, as im still tryin to figure out how ill got about everything if (touchwood) I smash it. Insurance wise I mean.

Its done 330k kms and insured for $6500 agreed, don't wanna f**k that up just yet lol.

 

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 Post subject: whiteline parts
Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 10:08 pm 
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hey there,i have had the same problem but in the reverse matter,tomuch pinion anlge,and it get really bad axle tramp.not happy.because me housing is shortened and modified.12mths no skid/not happy.but i am goin to weld up the old holes and get it in the right position,then redrill holes,heard that 4 degrees is a ideal angle(can someone verify this),fair enuf if u dont want to do this but it wud be the cheapest way.or have u tried askin 'whiteline' this company does all that stuff,adjustable swaybars/etc, think they make stuff for most common cars. also,does anyone know the best way to measure the pinion angle,is there a special tool.hope this helps someone.also wudn't this be wreckin ur unis
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Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 10:17 pm 
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how much longer do u think ur controls arms need to be,i think in my situation all that i wud have to move is the bottom control(trailing arm whatever u like to call it) 12mm forward in the hole,this looks like it wud be enuf to fix my problem,by moving it very little alters it a fair bit,just wondering becuase u said u want 30mm longer arms,that sounds like a fair bit,cya
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Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 10:17 pm 
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If you want to keep your current diff, I think the only option you have is to get a 2 piece driveshaft. That, or raise the car.

The EF arms are longer than the EL ones by about an inch. Difference with the EL is that they have 3 different mounting points on the diff/axles. The EF arms can not be repositioned.

As it appears you have an EF, what I'd do is get a whole replacement EL diff somewhere with the arms, and you'll also need the EL park brake cable. Perhaps find a wrecker who'd do a swap or for a little $$. OR as I said earlier; get a 2 piece driveshaft or raise it.

 

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 Post subject: two piece tailshaft
Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 10:21 pm 
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hey, is this why cars run a centre bearing/in particular utes and four wheel drives,if not wud somone mind explaining what a centre bearing does/or why cars have one,thanks
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Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 11:59 pm 
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utes, cos they're longer generally,
4wd's for ground clearance

 

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Posted: Sun Oct 22, 2006 9:12 am 
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The standard BA/BF utes use a 1 piece alloy shaft (3 3/4 inch) only the XR6 turbo, XR8 and FPV utes run a 2 piece with a centre CVJ. The centre bearing mounts the centre join of the shaft to the floor and must be at the correct position so as the shaft does not wobble on start up and that the front shaft is straight to the trans. I would check to make sure that your trailing arms simply dont have worn bushes which allows the diff to tilt forward. About pinion angle, its measured with an "Angle master" the maximum angle is 4 deg and must be the same both ends but oposing eachother. So an angle of 2-3 deg is preffered but 0 deg isnt. If its over 4 deg the UJ's will wear prematurly and if the angles on both ends are not the same you will get vibration.
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