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Lowered springs DIY 

 

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 Post subject: Lowered springs DIY
Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 1:01 am 
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Is there a step by step write up on how to lower your car here i cant seem to find one here at all.. Will be for my NA Fairlane.

Thanks.

 

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Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 8:09 am 
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A Gregories Manual will do the trick :) Worked for me

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 19, 2007 11:17 pm 
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get ya self a 4 inch grinder, jack it up cut 1& 1/2 coils of the front and 1 off the back, dont worriy about taking them out the springs just be carefull no to cut anything else oh and you might wanna ware some personal protective gear just incase the grinder blade expolodes
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Posted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 11:48 am 
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It's worth spending the $200-$250 to buy springs MADE to be shorter than stock.

 

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Posted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 12:06 pm 
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fastleno wrote:
get ya self a 4 inch grinder, jack it up cut 1& 1/2 coils of the front and 1 off the back, dont worriy about taking them out the springs just be carefull no to cut anything else oh and you might wanna ware some personal protective gear just incase the grinder blade expolodes


no.. It's a Fairlane not a $200 vb commodore.

 

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Posted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 12:19 pm 
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Try and organise an event day. That's how I got my car lowered. We did it at Frank's place.. king springs superlows.. nothing like drinking some beers and eating bbq while doing some car work. Gives everyone a chance to install all their random s**t with a huge assortment of tools and knowledge available.
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Posted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 1:35 pm 
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ok heres the way i do it, if everything goes to plan it should only take the best part of 1&1/2 hours.
i have done this a heap of times the best ways i have found is firstly loosen both side front wheel nuts get both front wheels of the ground making sure you have the car safe to work on, having the whole front of the ground will save you fighting against the swaybars and stuff.
after removing the wheels undo the large bolt holding the bottom of the strut then the three at the top under the bonnet holding the top of the strut, then remove the nut off the top ball joint and separate the stub axle from the top arm, after this is done the stub axle and rotor will flop and hang to one side enabling you to get at the strut, the strut will still be inplace and you will more than likely need to leaver the bottom arm downwards, you will need to get the bottom of the strut up and of the bottom arm first in order to get it out, the hardest part is getting the strut up and off the bottom arm at the same time, once you have got the strut up and off the bottom arm the strut will fall out. (also it sometimes helps if you also remove the tierod end from the stub)
once the strut is out of the car you will need to use spring compresses to compress the spring.
(if you dont use the compressors and undo the top bolt on the strut the spring and top cap assembly with shoot off, not only dangerous but you might strip the thread of loose bits)
once the springs are compressed undo the bolt at the top of the strut holding the top cap in place, after removing bolt and the top cap the spring will fall off. put the compressors on the lowered spring making sure its located on the stops at the bottom of the strut then place and locate the top cap which also locates on the coil, do the top cap bolt up remove the compressors and the spring is right to put back in.
putting the top of the strut in first is the only way to go, then you willl need to leaver the bottom of the strut back on to the lower arm, after you get that done it just a matter of putting everythink back and bolting it all up and repeat for the otherside. (doing it this way it took me 30 minutes to do both sides, i have air tools though)
now the rear, get both rear wheels off the ground making sure the car is safe to work on, take the wheels off then get a trolly jack and take the weight of the diff just so as the diff isnt hanging on the shockers, remove the watts link from both sides and the centre blot on the diff housing after that remove the bottom shocker bolts, now lower the trolly jack slowly making sure there is no tention on the brake hose of the breath hose, the shockers should be out of the bottom holders enough to get the springs out without removing the top shocker bolts if not you might have to compress the shocker by hand in order to remove the spring, the spring should be easy to remove now if not use the spring compressors, now you can put the new springs in , afer the springs are in place and on the stoppers jack the trolly jack up making sure that the shockers are lining up as you jack, once everthing looks in posistion put the shocker bolts in remove the trolly jack and put the watts link back wheels on and put the car back on the ground, you done.
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Posted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 2:13 pm 
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you should format that and submit as a doco, maybe get some pics next time you do it.

p.s. did you know that only has 5 full stops, technicly you could kill someone by making them read that out loud :)

 

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Posted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 9:55 pm 
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lol i never worried about the grammer to much as you noticed. anythink i forgot? i might type it up properly if i get time.
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Posted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 10:00 pm 
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NAfairlane... wrote:
fastleno wrote:
get ya self a 4 inch grinder, jack it up cut 1& 1/2 coils of the front and 1 off the back, dont worriy about taking them out the springs just be carefull no to cut anything else oh and you might wanna ware some personal protective gear just incase the grinder blade expolodes


no.. It's a Fairlane not a $200 vb commodore.


What you would pay $200 for a vb commodore????

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 7:56 pm 
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good post, fastleno
i will need this for when i lower my car, ive already bought the springs.

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 8:08 pm 
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nice work fastleno

Thats how I do it, but ive heard of other people undoing the lower inner and swaybar, and swinging the arm down which would make it easier to get the strut out - and you don't have to disconnect any balljoints. I havent tried this so cant really comment on it - but in theory seems good.

Also, just for bit of a rant - at work when we are replacing the whole strut and spring we will hold the strut on the floor, put our foot on the spring, and then get the rattle gun and undo the top nut. Should see the strut go flying one way and the top plate flying the other way!!! I've done this for a while now, and i know what i'm doing and i let other people know - so dont give me any ohs bs.
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Posted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 2:42 am 
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xf_xr6 wrote:
nice work fastleno

Thats how I do it, but ive heard of other people undoing the lower inner and swaybar, and swinging the arm down which would make it easier to get the strut out - and you don't have to disconnect any balljoints. I havent tried this so cant really comment on it - but in theory seems good.

Also, just for bit of a rant - at work when we are replacing the whole strut and spring we will hold the strut on the floor, put our foot on the spring, and then get the rattle gun and undo the top nut. Should see the strut go flying one way and the top plate flying the other way!!! I've done this for a while now, and i know what i'm doing and i let other people know - so dont give me any ohs bs.
i have never tried it that way but i recon that the torsion bar would have be removed aswell as the swaybars undone in order for the bottom arm to swing out. i have had that bolt in the bottom arm rust in real tight, rattle gun, mash hammer, soaked overnight with crc nothing worked ended up cutting it out with the oxy. if i can get that bolt out i will give it ago next time i lower a E-series, see which way is quicker. just thought id add my pb on a EL front pad change for one complete side is 7minutes 43 seconds using no air tools.
i also rattle the top nut, i just didnt think it was a good idea to tell someone to do it incase thay had the strut upright or somethin and got shot in the head or nuts by loaded spring, i am sure it would end up in a trip to the hossie lol.
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Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2007 8:25 pm 
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what is a strut, is that the shock thing?
im finding it really hard to get the shock of the wishbone thingy
i have popped of the whole hub disc setup from the wishbone thing and cant get my shock out
i have spring compressors on but just cant seem to get the shock o0ut
from what i understand i cant undo
the top thing under my bonnet other wise the shock will fly out yeah??


p.s. im halfway through doing my car now im stuck, its sitting in tyhe back yard now up in blocks, please help
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Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2007 9:53 pm 
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the strut is the part the spring sits in, the whole unit spring and all needs to be removed in order to replace the spring
you have to undo the three bolts holding the strut in under the bonnet but if you undo the large nut in the centre it will make the strut harder to get out, it is sometimes difficult to get the bottom of the strut off the bottom arm, you might need someone to give you a hand to lever the arm down while you lift the strut off the arm, once you get the bottom of the strut off the arm you are laughing.
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