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Manual Conversion Problems Plz help! 

 

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 Post subject: Manual Conversion Problems Plz help!
Posted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:00 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: 1989 300ZX Twin turbo Z32

Location: Bardon, Brisbane
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Hey guys,

I'm doing a T5 conversion into my EB and I'm having a few problems. I have fitted a brand new clutch kit, new cable, new oil, new everything. Now the problem I have is when I fully depress the clutch pedal, the clutch does not fully disengage. It becomes really hard to shift into gears and nearly impossible to put it in reverse. Even if I fully adjust the clutch cable at the flywall it still doesnt fully disengage. I also tried the old clutch and pressure plate with still no difference. Im using the mal wood clutch pin and my pedal box is not cracked and neither is the firewall.

I've checked everything i can think of and pulled the box out 4 times.

If anyone could help I would really appreciate it coz otherwise im going to scrap the idea, cut my losses and put my auto box back in tomorrow.

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:03 pm 
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Ride: 2.0 Turbo VW

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Checked to see if the throwout fork is bent? (common)

Has the dampener on the fork pulled through?

Were you supplied the correct throwout bearing?

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:10 pm 
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Yeh I bought a new dampener too. The fork isnt bent either. And the throwout bearing is the same as the old one.

Wish I knew why it doesnt work.

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:15 pm 
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i had the same problem but have factory manual n replaced from auto donor.
no reverse lockout makes all early t5's hard to get into reverse & i know all too well this makes it almost impossible.
once your moving it shouldn't be an issue. i've done nearly 20'000k's on the new clutch n no damage to anything. it's slowly getting better.
what oil are you using in the box ?

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:21 pm 
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Ride: 1989 300ZX Twin turbo Z32

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Im running Dexron 3 Castrol. I think its the right stuff to use. The car isnt really driveable how it is at the moment. Its really hard to get into any of the gears. I don't really want to take it down off the ramps coz i may not be able to get it back up again the way it is. I have the rear wheels on axle stands so I've been able to test the gearbox whilst in the air.

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:28 pm 
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testing the gearbox while its in the air is useless as is testing anything to do with your car in the air, not to mention dangerous.
when theres no load on the car it acts 4billion% differently than when it's loaded up. i'd drop it down n take it for a drive.
it's only a clutch issue you can get by without one if you know what your doin! i know from experience.
start it in gear with the clutch in n beware the clutch still might be engaged, once your moving it shouldn't have issues changing gear n if it does then the box itself might be shagged. dextron III is recomended but with an additive. i use a nulon additive.

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:35 pm 
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Have you checked the pedal height above the floor, it should be around 140mm or so. You mentioned in another thread about the clutch cable. I have an AU motor in my EF and I used the ef cable without problems. I would think you would be using the EB one. What bellhousing are you using E series or A series?All I can say is persist, you won't regret the manual change it brings the car alive.

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:58 pm 
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Yeh I ended up getting an ef cable which made no difference. I'm using the e series bellhousing. I would like to persist but i really need to have my car running so that i can get around. So i'll just have to go back to my auto and sell the conversion kit to someone who has better luck.

thanks for your help guys but the only option i've got to get it working is going back to auto

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 10:02 pm 
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Just a thought, have you got the clutch plate the right way around?

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 10:12 pm 
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twason wrote:
Just a thought, have you got the clutch plate the right way around?


Yep its the right way round. All bolts are torqued correctly too.

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 10:17 pm 
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my only thought on the issue & haven't acted upon it yet is shimming out the pressure plate. it seems with mine the pressure plate isn't coming back to '0' therefore the clutch is always to some degree engaged.
sometimes when i start my car in gear with the clutch in it lurches slightly forward or back depending on gear. now that sounds pretty bad but it's still driveable.
i've had the box out n back in that many times it takes me 45minutes each way. i've given up trying, although a mate with a maloo had the same problem, took the kit back to pbr n they replaced it because it was faulty n he never had the problem again.

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 11:42 pm 
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So have you had someone operate the clutch pedal while you check out the throwout fork area and clutch pedal area, looking for flexing, cable swages moving around, etc ??
Is the outer cable casing fitting properly into the front bellhousing ??
Is your old clutch and pressure plate soft or very hard to operate ??
Is the cable routed correctly - may have a too sharp bend causing the cable to bind ??
I don't want to be CAptain Obvious, but surely there's not much left to check, and as mentioned, perservere, it is definitely worth it - don't waste all that time and effort just to go back to slushbox city.

 

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Posted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 2:19 am 
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^ exactly what he said,

Start at the pedal box, get under the dash and watch the cluch pin carefully while pressing the clutch pedal with your hand (you should be strong enough :) ), also check to see if the firewall is flexing, and where the cable goes onto the pedal for any play.
The pedal usually sits just above the brake pedal in height, also make sure you havent got a thick mat laying under the pedal reducing its travel.

Then get someone in the car and press / release the clutch while your underneath watching it all closely, just because the fork isnt bent, doesnt mean its not cracked and flexing. This is common
Sometimes its worth getting rid of that rubber mount between cable and fork and make up a spacer to solid mount the cable.

Is the throwout bearing on the fork properly and you did install the spiggot bearing in the crank?

Theres not much else that can go wrong

It youve checked and double checked it, and it all looks like its working right, drive it to where you brought the clutch from and show them, in the case that it is a bad clutch, they have evidence.

You should be able to do all that in the same time it would take you to put the auto back in. :wink:
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Posted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 7:08 pm 
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Ride: EB II FALCON

Location: Bundaberg
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Hi guys am new to the forums.
whee am i going to see how to convert auto to manual???
I have an eb2 gli 4ltre
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Posted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 7:44 pm 
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