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removing tail shaft from gearbox end 

 

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 Post subject: removing tail shaft from gearbox end
Posted: Sat May 05, 2007 3:53 pm 
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Hi guys I've been trying to remove my tail shaft from my EF gearbox but cant figure out how to.

I cant see how I can get a spanner into it (the other ends easy enough!). Can anyone help me out here.

Is it easier just to disconnect the back end of the tail shaft and drag it out with the old gearbox then remove it? It sounds like allot of stuffing around though..

Thanks for any help.

Cheers, Nathan
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Posted: Sat May 05, 2007 3:59 pm 
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dumb a***!

Just figured out that the tail shaft slides out of the box...
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Posted: Sat May 05, 2007 4:02 pm 
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yep you do suck!
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Posted: Sat May 05, 2007 6:09 pm 
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:lol: :lol: :lol: He he just done this today...hehe woulda posted something similar... :wink:

 

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Posted: Sat May 05, 2007 7:20 pm 
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hehe yeah its a bit deceiving.

Tailshaft slides out, just watch out for rogue tranny fluid!
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Posted: Sat May 05, 2007 11:59 pm 
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Fare out guys those bolts are hell tight! I cant manage to loosen them without the spanners slipping. I'm going to repco soon to pick up a single hex socket and give it a fair go then. There just to tight...

Cheers, Nathan
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Posted: Sun May 06, 2007 12:17 am 
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Nath_ wrote:
Fare out guys those bolts are hell tight! I cant manage to loosen them without the spanners slipping. I'm going to repco soon to pick up a single hex socket and give it a fair go then. There just to tight...

Cheers, Nathan


What bolts? Driveshaft slides out of the gearbox and has 4 bolts on the flange at the diff.. 2 decent ring spanners will make short work of that..
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Posted: Sun May 06, 2007 12:39 am 
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ha ha yep those diff flange bolts are a prick to get of but then again youd be worried if they wernt tight :S

 

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Posted: Sun May 06, 2007 8:51 am 
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nannas_ed wrote:
ha ha yep those diff flange bolts are a prick to get of but then again youd be worried if they wernt tight :S


...they have thread locker on them that's why. make sure you put some thread locker on when you put the tailshaft back in...well it is recommended.

phong =P~

 

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Posted: Mon May 07, 2007 3:24 pm 
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Pretty sure I took the easy way out and just got an auto service centre to do the dirty work for me.

I had no idea it would be so cheap. There in and out in less than a day...

Problem solved...

Cheers, Nathan
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Posted: Tue May 08, 2007 4:22 pm 
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glenneaux wrote:
Nath_ wrote:
Fare out guys those bolts are hell tight! I cant manage to loosen them without the spanners slipping. I'm going to repco soon to pick up a single hex socket and give it a fair go then. There just to tight...

Cheers, Nathan


What bolts? Driveshaft slides out of the gearbox and has 4 bolts on the flange at the diff.. 2 decent ring spanners will make short work of that..


yeah make sure you use RING spanners.. open enders always seem to round bolts and cause skin loss on knuckles haha
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Posted: Thu May 10, 2007 3:34 pm 
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From memory the diff flange bolts are 18 and 15mm. Make sure you mark the original position of the driveshaft so as the system balance is retained when shaft refitted.
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Posted: Thu May 10, 2007 8:14 pm 
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That sound like a good idea in theory but if the tailshaft is balanced it can be bolted in either way and if it isn't balanced it will vibrate no matter where you put it :roll:

 

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Posted: Fri May 11, 2007 5:17 pm 
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To further explain the yellow dots on the driveshaft and diff flange. The dots on the shafts represent the lighter side after balancing and the dot on the diff flange is the heavier side after balancing, the trans also has a dot on the output shaft but washes off. The reason why there is a lighter and heavier side after balancing is simply due to mass production which makes it impossible to get a zero imbalance. If it was possible you would never have to get new tyres balanced.
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Posted: Fri May 11, 2007 5:20 pm 
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Those bolts are definitely a pain in the a***. Breaker bar or another spanner on the end of it helps
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