Bah who needs mods. Drifting is fine in a Stock EA Wagon!!

mike im talking about real drifting here

frd_xr6.. yeah i been trying on 225/50/r16.. wihcih i think could be robbing my wheelspin.. i must try some 15's thanks for reminding me!

Well if your talking about real drifting then hear it from someone with an unhealthy drifting obsession (while not studying that is). If you want to last more that 5 passes in a day without blowing a gasket and pouring those precious fluids all over the track and thus ruining the fun for everyone while the crew cleans the track, get a 3 core aluminum radiator, lower the car and make the car as stiff a possible in the back 8-9 units and in the front 7-8. If possible find out how to modify and fit the 24 mode adjustable coilovers (that’s what the 86 guys do), get your self a few sets of small and thin tyres for the back at 185-205 max at a size of 14-15 inch, this is where stocks come in handy. Remember the larger the wheel the harder it is to spin, an you want to be able complete the turn spinning, instead you’ll run out of guts. A shot of nitro can come in very hand here and its very cheap $1000 for everything if you can install it. The main things that will kill a dirft car very quickly is the heat and the excessive steering. As said by others make sure all bushes are in perfect nic other wise replace them. Take a close look at your wheel alignment , wheel balance, steering rack ad these things needs to be perfect unless you want to deal with extra variables ie random vibrations or being pulled to one side thus spinning. Also keep all fluids as cool as you can this included if your serious a major transmission cooler, oil catch, and for the guy with too much money a diff cooler, yes thats right. Also since the car is so heavy make sure you take care of the basics ie. remove as much weight as possible. They took out 200-250 kilos out of the BA that’s now drifting. Remove all interior lining, sound insulation, spare tyre and the tar in the boot which is a lot of work but it will shave off a few kilos. A very important aspect in this months Drift Battle is an article on the rev limiter. The factory ECU will only cut the fuel where as the adjustable “Bee*Râ€￾ limiter cuts the ignition. Good for turbo spool but that wont affect you. (but you get the papapapaap sound and some flames )
We’ll that’s all I can think of right now, time to watch some drift…

He’s a pick of the old VN I saw down at Calder last year. Spoke to the mechanic for a while he said they we down from Qld. The only gauges in the car was a giant taco, and a light for temp and shiftin, not bad ay?

 

 

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come on man Pet_ED........dont have to write an essay =( i cbf reading.....hahaha. pictures tell a thousand words .

and dan.......good point =D now find a multi story one without cameras =D

First of all, drifting on low profile tyres is a lot easier than mis-matching low profiles on the front with stockies on the back. If you're obsessed with drifting, surely you've noticed that all the top D1 cars use similar/the same tyres front and rear. I've tried drifting with stockies on the rear and 17's on the front, it's not drifting, it's power oversteer. Much easier with 17's all round. The lower profile the tyre, the less sidewall flex there will be, so the less traction there will be. Noticed how no race series in the world runs bigger than 18" rims, and this is to clear brakes.

As for an E-Series being 's**t for drifting', this is a mis-conception. They run a double wishbone front suspension like a Skyline, live axle rear like an AE86, and an EA weighs a similar amount to an R33. Add some boost to a 4.0 in an EA and it will have more torque than an R33 as well. In IRS cars they set the camber to 0deg when drifting, live axle cars are already there. I know IRS will alter the camber with height changes and body roll, but they're so stiff in the rear these would make minimal difference to camber.

Suspension wise, if I were doing it, I would re-mount the upper wishbones back by about 15mm to get some extra castor, and fit a pair of Whiteline +1.5deg radius rods, then play around with the camber angles so the outside front wheel has a slight amount of -ve camber when at close to full lock (would be around -4.5deg static). A pair of Whiteline adjustable swaybars, a set of platform adjustable, bump/rebound adjustable coil-overs with 2 or 3 different sets of springs, to find the ideal setup for your car and driving style. Depending on how serious you are, getting custom rear control arms made up with the top arms re-mounted as far forward on the body as possible, and re-mounting the Watts Link V8 supercar style (centre of the link to the body, 2 ends on the diff) to get some roll centre adjustment. Some toe-out on the front will help as well.

There's always someone who will misinterpret.
I never encouraged mismatched tyres. Just giving the lad a few pointers for starting out so he doesnt waste all his money. Second hand tyres for the back are used by most budget concious people.
Your knowledge on suspension sounds decent.

Cheers Az.. your dead right in regards to the stockies on the back.. but it would defiantely help me keep the power on while trying to power over on some corners...

I am persoanlly not building a drift weapon, i just want a drift friendly product which will be used on the odd track and drift day for some fun.

But yeah thanks AZ those swaybar options were definatley what i was looking for in making htis thread.

I also have a problem there is two corners im trying to link and am trying to do them without the handbrake(its just to hard!) and im stumped. I come into the first corner LH at about 70kmh and do a scandinavian flick and then power around the 80 degree bend at about 50kmh, a very short straight then there is another LH corner the same as the first.. without the use of handbrake how would i drift this corner? As the straight isnt long enough to do a snakey/scandinavian flick or get any speed.. ? any ideas?

It would be quite hard to link the corners without having a decent amount of power to pull you out of the first corner and continue spinning into the next.

The speeds you're talking about don't really seem like drift speeds anyhow as an exit speed of 50km/h is really quite slow and doesn't give you any real amount of momentum to use to get the thing sideways before the next corner. It's hard to judge such a thing without seeing the corners but thats what it seems like.

It basically just comes down to entry speed into the second corner and lack of power to keep the wheels spinning throughout the corner, where an import would be on full boost.

Trust me, I love my falcon, but it's no drift car. They aren't overly well balanced, are heavy, and relatively underpowered in comparison. You could spend thousand and thousands upgrading suspension and power to be able to compete against STOCK S13's and FC's or you could buy one of these for the same price, then modify them.

yeah aj its only a short track which is why the speeds r so slow!

i compare mine to an r33 about the same weight and ive got some coilovers to be put in soon hopefully so it shouldnt be that much different i hope!

K-mac also do coil overs for the EA onwards Falcons. Read that yesterday.

im getting a drift car soon and it will most likely be some jap crap

if your only doing drifting for s**t n giggles your falcon will do fine with a fair few suspension mods, a bit more power and an LSD if you haven't already got one. However if you wish to become serious i would recommend using another car unless your going to gut your falcon n rebuild it.

like i said a million times man... s**t n giggles.
otherwise i would buy a cefiro. but if i was serious enough to buy a cefiro i would try and compete and it would cost fukn s**t!!

Let me know how those coilovers go Carl...

will do mr vl