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Shift kit Advantages 

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2006 6:55 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: BF XR6, BF XT Wagon

Power: 197 rwkw

Location: Perth
WA, Australia

Yeah got to love manuals. How cars were made to be driven until the lazy driver arrived on the scene.

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2006 8:00 pm 
Tyre Shredder
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Age: 29

Posts: 389

Joined: 12th Sep 2005

Ride: R32 Rb25

Location: Melbourne
VIC, Australia

lol ^^

when my cuz's came to australia from turkey, they were like wtf r u doin driving a car for disabled ppl?

i couldnt stop laughin!!!

like 99% of cars in europe are manual, autos are for disabled ppl
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Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2006 8:52 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 32

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Ride: XR6 Turbo

Location: Taree
NSW, Australia

Thanks ordered it and its on the way

 

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SS Inductions CAI, K&N Filters, M-spec FMC, Turbosmart BOV, 8psi capa tune, X-force cat.

Mods going on: Nizpro springs, bosch 040 pump + Walbro gss341, 600cc injectors, PWR transcooler, 20% Underdrives, 15psi Actuator, Kingspring SSL's, 15psi tune.....More coming

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Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2006 8:59 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 35

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Joined: 20th Dec 2004

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Ride: EL Manual

Location: S.E. Melbourne
VIC, Australia

tickford_6 wrote:
Spork wrote:
Shiftkits do nothing for accelleration. Absolutely zero. If anything they make the car slower.

Auto's are never 'out of a gear' like manuals are. All your shift kit is doing is getting out into a higher. ie slower gear faster. So fast in fact that you are damaging the clutch plates, burning the fluid and wasting power with spinning wheels.

The only thing they are good for is when you have seriously modified your car and now the auto can't change gears properly. The shift kit will increase the pressure during shifts preventing excess clutch slip that would otherwise burn the clutch plates.



care to explain how having the clutches and bands slip for less time is going to cause damage.. also by having less slip there is less heat and infact helping to keep things cooler.

between gears in an auto is not a time of full accelleration. so the less time spent there the better..

it's been proven many times that a these kits do infact show a drop in 1/4mile times.


go do some real research befor making pointless un informed posts


With a clutch there is both localised heating and bulk heating. When you engage the clutch too hard and fast you create locaised hot spots which cause premature wear to the clutch material and burning of the oil. Over time the burnt clutch material can flake off causing other problems in the transmission and the burnt oil loses its lubrication and frictional properties. Too much pressure can also squeeze too much oil from between the plates before they have syncronised speeds causing squark and severe wear.

You can also get bulk heating from having shifts that are too long with similar effects to the above. These are usually caused by an insufficient pressure application rate (or an engine that is making much more torque).

Like most things shifts that are too hard are bad, shifts that are too soft are bad. The middle is just right.

The accelleration is lower during a gear change but only because the ECU performs torque limiting to assist with the speed of the gearchange. While tricking the trans into performing a shift faster will also reduce the torque limiting time slightly the other effects above are a bigger concern.

In general with a standard trans and standard car there is no reason to put on a shift kit. It can only worsen the wear and tear on the trans for negliable accelleration improvement. However if you have modified the engine then your trans is now not calibrated properly for the torque your new engine is making. This is much more of a problem with aftermarket ECU's that can't perform torque limiting during a shift. In this case firming up the shifts will help prevent clutch wear by shortening shifts that are too long.

Anything else you would like to know?

 

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Mods: Crow Stg3, Chiptorque Dynotune. Lukey Exhaust. DBA slotted rotors, EBC Pads. Whiteline Low Susp. EL GT Swaybars, ROH Envy 17 x235 wheels. Vehicle Datalogger Display V2.0,

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Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2006 9:01 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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well if it breaks theres my excuse to put a manual in, so its win win.

 

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SS Inductions CAI, K&N Filters, M-spec FMC, Turbosmart BOV, 8psi capa tune, X-force cat.

Mods going on: Nizpro springs, bosch 040 pump + Walbro gss341, 600cc injectors, PWR transcooler, 20% Underdrives, 15psi Actuator, Kingspring SSL's, 15psi tune.....More coming

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Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2006 9:04 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: EL Manual

Location: S.E. Melbourne
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That's the spirit! :-) Manuals are the best for modified cars.

 

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Manual EL Gli.
Mods: Crow Stg3, Chiptorque Dynotune. Lukey Exhaust. DBA slotted rotors, EBC Pads. Whiteline Low Susp. EL GT Swaybars, ROH Envy 17 x235 wheels. Vehicle Datalogger Display V2.0,

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Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2006 9:06 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 32

Posts: 3687

Joined: 4th Mar 2005

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Ride: XR6 Turbo

Location: Taree
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lol yeah there all types of fun, im miss my old XF ute she was manual good times, the EF is way faster but not as much fun to bash around with the auto box

 

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SS Inductions CAI, K&N Filters, M-spec FMC, Turbosmart BOV, 8psi capa tune, X-force cat.

Mods going on: Nizpro springs, bosch 040 pump + Walbro gss341, 600cc injectors, PWR transcooler, 20% Underdrives, 15psi Actuator, Kingspring SSL's, 15psi tune.....More coming

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Posted: Thu Jan 05, 2006 12:18 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Posts: 2098

Joined: 5th Nov 2004

Ride: egas bf xt

Location: Gosford
NSW, Australia

Yeah, point & squirt is only good for when you're eating maccas + driving :D

*dreams of the day i have the money for the conversion

 

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