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slotted and cross drilled 

 

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Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 8:46 pm 
Smokin em up
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Mine is daily driver.....no dramas, thats why you should use soft pads, re the torque settings, 105Nm for wheel nuts, but they must also be tightened in the correct sequence, ie tighten one then go to the opposit then the opposite again till all are done then repeat the sequence and ensure the wheel nuts are all the same tightness..

Hope this helps.
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Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 11:42 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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AWESOME!!! Thanks heaps! That 105Nm thing is great news --- I watched the wheel alignment guys put my wheel nuts on with a rattle gun and then just twist half a turn more with a bloody great wheel brace. Ah well, I havn't put my new brakes on yet, so that's fine with me!....!
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 Post subject: brakes
Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 12:01 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Im going to put my slotted DBA rotors front and rear with Bendix Ultimate pads fron and rear on my EL tomorrow, ill let you know how they go.

 

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Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 2:06 am 
Getting Side Ways
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xb-coupe-351 wrote:
I have drilled and slotted all round on my ELXR8, never had a drama, good breaking especially with the ABS, they warp no more than standard ones, if anything less, thats why they make em, they are better..


why are they better?

On most street cars that run stock brake setups (ie caliper, pad/disc size) how often are the brakes actually heated to the point where there is noticable brake fade? If anything it would make sense for the street that slotted would be a better choice because the decrease in cooling efficiency (which i believe if you are finding being tested you should consider upgrading the whole system anyway) is offset by slotted rotors having generally greater contact area with the pad as well as a greater mass (greater storage capacity of thermal engergy).

This is totally aside from the fact that you are more likely to warp a cross drilled rotor, particularly in a falcon where there is only a small area of contact between pad and rotor, and the area of this contact is likelyy to heat up quicker than it would with a solid/slotted rotor (due to less mass). Plus DBA slotted and/or cross drilled rotors have manufacturers flaws as they have the slots cut and the holes drilled after being cast...


still each to their own, my opinion is that I wouldn't be wasting my money on something that isn't proven to out perform cheaper options

 

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Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 10:56 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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I have gotten 150,000 klm from a set of DBA standard discs doing lots of heavy load towing. The ultimate pads dust alot, Advance pads are pretty good and almost no dust. All ford discs warp. Even my dads AU3 suffered from it. The biggest issue I can see is the stupid caliper slide design. I turned up some teflon ones for the rubber side and they pad wear has been much better. I believe the main reason for warping is the calipers seizing and causing brakes to push on one side of the disc twice as hard as the other. This is why I am adapting 4 spot calipers instead.
Fiend you have correct info with the torque settings. I have had the bearings loosen up and need re-torquing after a 10000klm with new discs and bearings. I always check for side lash after hub works.
Once again I need to machine my discs (slotted)due to shudder.

 

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Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 3:07 am 
Oompa Loompa
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ive used rattle guns on wheel nuts for the past 10 years with no fault

its the bloke that uses it with no feel and a heavy trigger finger thats the problem

if in doubt use a socket that disengages at 80lbs/ft of tourqe which is the normal setting for most wheel nuts

also work in opposites when doing wheel nuts going round in a clockwise fashion is what warps the disks

im always on the apprentice for that
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Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 4:44 pm 
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crossed drill ones will flake badly unless you heat them up properly. if you just start it up, drive around the corner and have to slam on the brakes for some reason they flake badly. and crack

 

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