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Stop light switch 

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 10:20 am 
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Joined: 31st Jan 2006

Location: Brisbane
QLD, Australia

Thanks for the update. Didn't want to go without brake lights so I've just bought another S60 for $14 (I'm getting pretty quick at replacing these now). I've just ordered a BS60A (for around $25) because I'm pretty confidant the S60 isn't going to last. When the BS60A arrives I'll put it in and keep the S60 for a spare. Saw some post elsewhere where the S60 didn't have a good report, and that the genuine part (although a LOT more expensive) lasted a few years longer (though that's still not long).
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Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 10:29 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 79

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Joined: 7th Apr 2005

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Ride: GTHO PH 1 EF ex chaser

Location: Willow vale, GOLD COAST
QLD, Australia

I just wonder what this is about, my brake switch is original :D 11 years old 200,000 kms and never a problem :roll:maybe the police ones are stronger to put up with the big flatfoot of said officers :idea:

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 10:52 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 36

Posts: 3794

Joined: 9th Aug 2005

Ride: Hilux

Location: Mornington
VIC, Australia

my mum had an El from new for almost 6 years, never replaced one

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 11:38 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Joined: 4th Dec 2004

Ride: el faimont, dual fuel

Location: melbourne
VIC, Australia

weve noticed that they tend to go if you hit the brakes hard repeatedly, as hit the pedal hard first of instaed of applying it smoothly. thats an au2 cab

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 11:56 am 
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Age: 53

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Joined: 14th Jan 2005

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Ride: 96 XH/97 EL

Location: South Coast
NSW, Australia

I think it's pot luck as far as switch longetivity goes. I've had 2 failing on my ute and 3 failing on my wagon.
A while back I fitted warning circuits to both my cars - easy to do (4 diodes and a relay will do it, along with a press to test switch) - if the switch has failed a warning caption will come on when the brake pedal is pressed. The brake lights will still operate though via the cruise control brake master cylinder pressure switch.
My main concern was that sure the switches are easy to change, just you can't tell when they've failed, and they'll fail in the worst possible situation, e.g. traffic. You just replace the switch when you can.

I just like to have brake lights all the time :shock: .

 

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96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl
97 EL Futura S/W: LPG, Alarm, LED int Lts, Trip Comp, F/Lane Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl, T5 Conversion

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Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 12:52 pm 
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Joined: 31st Jan 2006

Location: Brisbane
QLD, Australia

I took my broken switch out, put a meter across it, and activiated it. About 400ohms. Haven't done the new switch yet. Maybe it's not about activiation at all, but a burnout problem? Anyone one know if this switch just drives a relay, or whether it takes all the current to the lights? If so, maybe the problem is current-related. I tow a trailer occasionally which means extra brake lights.
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Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 8:01 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: Ford FPV FG F6 310

Power: 149 rwkw

Location: Brisbane
QLD, Australia

mine went on my ef.
the first thing i noticed is my damn cruise wouldn't work cause they were stuck ON.
stupid switches.
btw the ford ones are better than the aftermarket ones.

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 8:19 pm 
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Joined: 5th Jan 2006

Ride: XY Fairmont

Location: Berri
SA, Australia

Anyone noticed the amount of melted grease in the switches that are stuffed? I had thought maybe it was coming from the pedal pivot and dropping onto the switch. Could this be stuffing them up??

 

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