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suspention choice 

 

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 Post subject: suspention choice
Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2005 7:37 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 30

Posts: 740

Joined: 20th Nov 2004

Ride: BA Falcon

Location: Melbourne
VIC, Australia

now the time has come for me to f**k the stock springs off and select some new ones :)

im lookin to drop by 2.5"

suggestions?, what's good, what's bad, what's cheap --> peoples experiences with different brands etc

im lookin to spend around 1000 if not less?

thanks all
ryan
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Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2005 8:52 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 36

Posts: 7287

Joined: 5th Nov 2004

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Ride: 1994 ED XR8 Sprint

Location: Somewhere in
QLD, Australia

kings superlows if ya wanna go cheap, otherwise, get some eibach coils

 

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Posted: Sun Apr 17, 2005 1:55 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: BF XR6, BF XT Wagon

Power: 197 rwkw

Location: Perth
WA, Australia

A few people have had varying heights between their front and rear springs with Kings springs me included. I had a height difference of 10mm which was noticable to me. I wont get them again.
I would try lovells or eibach like Interceptor said.

 

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Timmeh banned himself from being a moderator.

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Posted: Sun Apr 17, 2005 4:16 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Location: FNQ
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With my King "Low" springs I chucked a SuperPro 10mm spacer in each side at the rear and it's all good - in fact, altho when I first fitted the springs and spacers the car sat level with full tank and driver - now it actually sits noticeably a*** high with full tank and driver - only a small amount but noticeable - I suspect that if I now took those spacers out she'd sit level again - so evidently King allow for the front springs to settle a bit over time.

I've used Lovells and Kings (std XR6 height in both cases - ie. "Lowered" from std) - and I found the Lovells to be too soft for my liking - I had to compensate by stiffening up the sway bar but even so the balance of the car just never felt right. With the Kings the rear feels much better - and I run the sway bar at second from softest setting with a real nice balance to handling.

 

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96 EF Auto GLi - Bilstein Shocks - Adjustable Front sway bar - JMM Cam - TI Perf J3 - TCI 2500/3000 stall converter. 2015 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk.

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Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2005 3:28 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 35

Posts: 516

Joined: 20th Dec 2004

Gallery: 4 images

Ride: EL Manual

Location: S.E. Melbourne
VIC, Australia

I really enjoy my whiteline kit. But you wont get it for under $1000.
I find the rear quite hard compared to the front. It tracks the bumps alot better although the rear can still skip sideways in high speed bumpy corners. Though generally the system is excellent. Understeer/Oversteer is now my choise through throttle application and corner entry rather than a bump induced suprise!

Greenmachine: What settings do you run your shocks at. I have both front and rear set to +25% on my koni's I was thinking of softening the rear to get some more compliance on those corners. Any suggestions?

 

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Mods: Crow Stg3, Chiptorque Dynotune. Lukey Exhaust. DBA slotted rotors, EBC Pads. Whiteline Low Susp. EL GT Swaybars, ROH Envy 17 x235 wheels. Vehicle Datalogger Display V2.0,

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Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2005 3:52 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Location: FNQ
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I'm running Bilstein shocks so adjustment isn't an option in that respect - BUT, I've always found that running relatively soft rear swaybar setting is the ticket for settling that a*** tailiness. My rear bar is at the softest setting which I think actually equates to a bit softer than standard factory bar. How well the tyres stay physically on the road thru choppiness is down to the shockies - and Bilstein and Gabriel are the best in that regard IMO.

Interestingly enough, a local workshop runs Falcon sprint cars and on those they actually remove the rear bars altogether in order to "keep both rear wheels on the ground". Years ago I was reading an article in one of the muscle car mags about a Brock Commodore with bombed up engine etc. that was competing in some sort of group racing series and on that car they also had removed the rear swaybar altogether.

In your case I'd suggest trying the rear bar in it's softest setting (end hole) and then if the rear of the car feels too "mushy" thru corners, try offsetting it with firmer shock settings.

 

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96 EF Auto GLi - Bilstein Shocks - Adjustable Front sway bar - JMM Cam - TI Perf J3 - TCI 2500/3000 stall converter. 2015 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk.

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Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2005 4:10 pm 
Stock as a Rock
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Age: 34

Posts: 118

Joined: 5th Nov 2004

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Ride: BA XR6 Turbo

Location: Sydney
NSW, Australia

I got pedders...Sports ryder in the front and gas in the rear. Is a hard ride but I lowered around 1.5-2 inch so thats expected.

 

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Posted: Thu Apr 21, 2005 9:21 am 
Stock as a Rock
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Age: 48

Posts: 159

Joined: 16th Mar 2005

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Ride: ED XR8 Sprint

Location: Melbourne
VIC, Australia

Mate,
What model are we talking about here?
I have just lifted my car as it was too low and too hard for my liking (purchased it already lowered). I have lifted it back up to std XR height (I have a ED sprint). It had extra low Pedders front struts and pedders heavy duty extra low rear springs in it. The front struts have a lower saddle so std springs just fit in.

If you live in Melbourne, I am looking to sell them if you are interested. Just PM me.

 

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Posted: Thu Apr 21, 2005 7:19 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 35

Posts: 516

Joined: 20th Dec 2004

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Ride: EL Manual

Location: S.E. Melbourne
VIC, Australia

Greenmachine wrote:
I'm running Bilstein shocks so adjustment isn't an option in that respect - BUT, I've always found that running relatively soft rear swaybar setting is the ticket for settling that a*** tailiness. My rear bar is at the softest setting which I think actually equates to a bit softer than standard factory bar. How well the tyres stay physically on the road thru choppiness is down to the shockies - and Bilstein and Gabriel are the best in that regard IMO.

Interestingly enough, a local workshop runs Falcon sprint cars and on those they actually remove the rear bars altogether in order to "keep both rear wheels on the ground". Years ago I was reading an article in one of the muscle car mags about a Brock Commodore with bombed up engine etc. that was competing in some sort of group racing series and on that car they also had removed the rear swaybar altogether.

In your case I'd suggest trying the rear bar in it's softest setting (end hole) and then if the rear of the car feels too "mushy" thru corners, try offsetting it with firmer shock settings.


Hmmm. Time to buy the adjustable swaybars then. I'm also thinking it could just be a limitation of the live axle overall. Becasue low speed corners are amazing. I only have the stock 15" wheels on and I can throw it around the worst bumpy broken tarmac from hell corner and it holds on like nothing else. Or if it does let go it is smooth and controllable, nothing like what it was like standard.

 

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Manual EL Gli.
Mods: Crow Stg3, Chiptorque Dynotune. Lukey Exhaust. DBA slotted rotors, EBC Pads. Whiteline Low Susp. EL GT Swaybars, ROH Envy 17 x235 wheels. Vehicle Datalogger Display V2.0,

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Posted: Thu Apr 21, 2005 9:12 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 50

Posts: 912

Joined: 22nd Mar 2005

Gallery: 1 images

Location: FNQ
QLD, Australia

Spork wrote:
Greenmachine wrote:
I'm running Bilstein shocks so adjustment isn't an option in that respect - BUT, I've always found that running relatively soft rear swaybar setting is the ticket for settling that a*** tailiness. My rear bar is at the softest setting which I think actually equates to a bit softer than standard factory bar. How well the tyres stay physically on the road thru choppiness is down to the shockies - and Bilstein and Gabriel are the best in that regard IMO.

Interestingly enough, a local workshop runs Falcon sprint cars and on those they actually remove the rear bars altogether in order to "keep both rear wheels on the ground". Years ago I was reading an article in one of the muscle car mags about a Brock Commodore with bombed up engine etc. that was competing in some sort of group racing series and on that car they also had removed the rear swaybar altogether.

In your case I'd suggest trying the rear bar in it's softest setting (end hole) and then if the rear of the car feels too "mushy" thru corners, try offsetting it with firmer shock settings.


Hmmm. Time to buy the adjustable swaybars then. I'm also thinking it could just be a limitation of the live axle overall. Becasue low speed corners are amazing. I only have the stock 15" wheels on and I can throw it around the worst bumpy broken tarmac from hell corner and it holds on like nothing else. Or if it does let go it is smooth and controllable, nothing like what it was like standard.


Having re - read your previous post and then the one above, I reckon you should probably have a go at softening the rear shock setting - in short I guess the options to try are a) firm shock setting with softer sway bar setting; and b) softer shock setting with firmer sway bar setting. Adjustable bars give you the flexability to try different combos like that.

 

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96 EF Auto GLi - Bilstein Shocks - Adjustable Front sway bar - JMM Cam - TI Perf J3 - TCI 2500/3000 stall converter. 2015 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk.

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