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Top bellhousing bolts. 

 

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 Post subject: Top bellhousing bolts.
Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 10:12 pm 
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Doing a manual conversion. Running a little behind schedule :roll:

The 2 top passenger side bellhousing bolts in removing the auto.

Anyone got an tricks?

Have tried to get a spanner on em like in voxace's guide with no luck - cant get a socket in from behind.

Could almost them from the top but the heater pipe at the rear of the motor is in a prick of a spot. Is that thing ever not in the way??

Show me your wisdom :D

 

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Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 10:14 pm 
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About 3 feet of extensions joined end to end with flex joints on some did mine. There is enough room for a socket with the rear mount disconnected so the motor drops at the rear. Otherwise an open ender/ring and then use another ring spanner on the open ender end to gain some leverage.

 

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Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 10:46 pm 
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as twason said take out the rear crossmember and about 3-4 long 1/2' extensions and a woble joint at the socket . O and not forgetin some Strength - gloves too .
just ask phongus :P

 

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Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 11:59 pm 
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Another vote for the above two posts.
This is one moment where you find that soundproof/flame proof stuff to be a PITA.

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 12:09 am 
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Yeh, already noted it is a pain in the a***.

Has it got any fibreglass content at all? Cause my hands are itchy as buggery after today.

Ill try find some more extension joints. hope i can get enough.


Is it safe to let the engine rock all the way back to the firewall? at what point will the engine mounts be pushed past their limits?

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 1:52 am 
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As twason said thats how we did mine. If your really having trouble get someone to pull down on the rear of the trans as you do it. Sounds dodge but it works....
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Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 10:07 am 
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You can let the motor rock back, generally the rocker cover / head will rest on the firewall, the mounts should be fine (as long as there in good condition)
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Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 11:32 am 
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MRE-50L wrote:
as twason said take out the rear crossmember and about 3-4 long 1/2' extensions and a woble joint at the socket . O and not forgetin some Strength - gloves too .
just ask phongus :P


Yeah...get some gloves to safe you from bruises and scratches as well as some elbow grease. Better to do it when you have close to 100% strength or when you get really angry and start cursing at the bolts.

As snap said as well...the fireproof stuff lining the firewall sucks balls. Make sure you have long sleeves on and gloves to save you from getting fibres on your epidermis.

Heaps of extensions are good. I have to borrow 2 extensions off my uncle and used 2 extensions of mine...and that worked wonders when the transmission mount was removed and motor slight angled.

phong =P~

 

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Last edited by phongus on Tue Apr 22, 2008 1:40 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 4:29 pm 
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66 coupe wrote:
You can let the motor rock back, generally the rocker cover / head will rest on the firewall, the mounts should be fine (as long as there in good condition)


i did as above and previous posts

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 9:47 pm 
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Lots of socket extensions and cursing.

Getting them back in is WORSE!

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 10:08 pm 
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i told u gaz!!!!

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 10:53 pm 
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Disco Frank wrote:
i told u gaz!!!!


LoL...and you didn't offer to help? you slacker :P

phong =P~

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 11:08 pm 
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I went to a Hong Kong imports shop and bought a 3 foot extension bar just for this type of job. Have had it 5yrs now and it has been like gold along with my 2, 4, 6 and 12 inch bars.

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 11:14 pm 
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data_mine wrote:
Lots of socket extensions and cursing.

Getting them back in is WORSE!


1 extension bar 3 foot long, 1 universal joint with electrical tape the centre (keeps the socket from flopping off to the side.).

 

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Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 12:53 am 
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Yeh got em out... Ill take a photo of my awesome tool tomorrow :lol:

Just a question in regards to their replacement.

I got em all back in bar the top drivers side with the heater pipe bracket. Long story short - It was the last bolt i did and didn't realise the bracket had got caught between the bellhousing and the block and one side got squished in there blocking half the hole. I really wasn't in the mood to remove all the bolts again so i just left it.

Im assuming this should be ok? I may get around to fixing it at some stage. But probably not. I've heard of people not using the bottom 2 bolts on an AU engine cause of alignment issues to i assume 1 bolt should be ok at the top? THe pipe still has some support so fingers crossed.



Not to self - Manual Conversion is not ideal for a 1 person job.

 

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