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Top bolts on bellhousing 

 

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 Post subject: Top bolts on bellhousing
Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 11:18 am 
Parts Gopher
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Age: 54

Posts: 54

Joined: 7th May 2009

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Ride: AU Falcon XRS Wagon

Location: Deception Bay
QLD, Australia

I would like someone to send me a picture of the little japanese or chinese man that is supposed to undo the top three bolts and the top starter motor bolt on the AU auto
Must be of asian origin for his hands to be so small...but his arms must be about 18" round cos the freaking things are impossible to rreach and even harder to undo. I guesss they use blue loctite on these bolts just as they do on the tailshaft. I am using 2 x 12" and a 6" 1/2" drive extension with a uni joint so I can reach them.
Was going to use the 3/8 bar but I think I would snap the bugger somewhere near te end of the shaft.
What happened to the days when you could do a gearbox or auto swap in an hour.
Man this is going to take me at least 3 days cos I keep getting p****d off and walking away from the car before I break things.
Am contempllating not putting the top 2 back in but ya never know.
I might take the motor out to put it back in...lol

 

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 Post subject: Re: Top bolts on bellhousing
Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 11:25 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: 93 ED sedan

Power: 161 rwkw

Location: Rockhampton
QLD, Australia

Undo the exhaust, it lets the engine hang down further, have a long 1/2" drive extension, uni-joint and 3/4" socket.

 

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 Post subject: Re: Top bolts on bellhousing
Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 1:46 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Location: Sydney
NSW, Australia

swap hands with me. :lol: Sometimes I do them up with a short spanner while sitting in the engine bay from the top.

 

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 Post subject: Re: Top bolts on bellhousing
Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 2:10 pm 
Fordmods Junkie
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Ride: EL Fairmont, VFR400 racer

Power: 144 rwkw

Location: Melbourne
VIC, Australia

I had about 5 x 1/2" drive extension bars and a uni joint which reached till the end of the gearbox. From there I had more leverage than from between the underside of the car and gearbox. Also I undid the top two bolts which worked out easier than undoing the bottom bolts first. The gearbox was held up by a trolley jack to reduce stress on the bolt which may cause it to be tighter than it should be.

Also top bolt of the starter motor is easier to remove first. I managed to get the bolt of with a socket and one extension bar (3/8th driver...can't remember length)...first guide the socket onto the bolt with the extension bar, then snap your ratchet onto the end. It's basically impossible to guide the socket on with the ratchet attached, too much s**t in the way.

I am a skinny lanky Asian with minimal strength. If I managed to get it off I am sure you can.

 

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 Post subject: Re: Top bolts on bellhousing
Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 2:15 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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as the other guys said. drop the rear trans mount support the gearbox so that full weight isnt placed on the firewall. get the longest 1/2" ext you can get (u might need a few) and undo them that way. easy as if youve got a rattle gun. well that how i do it anyway

 

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