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use of lowering blocks 

 

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 Post subject: use of lowering blocks
Posted: Sun Jan 30, 2005 10:48 pm 
Oompa Loompa
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Need to get the front suspension done in the car but as there are other things wrong can't afford the $1500 at the moment. As the back end sits up i was thinking of putting lowering blocks in the rear end to lower it 2". Would like to know if this will take the pressure off the front until i can get the suspension done.

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 30, 2005 11:34 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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i'm assuming you either have a wagon or a ute.....

what do you mean "take the pressure off the front"?

anything you d to the rear suspension will have little or no effect on the front suspension, and if the front suspension is faulty, nothing short of replacing the faulty part will cure the problem

whats wrong with the front suspension?

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2005 11:26 am 
Oompa Loompa
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Thanks for your advice Interceptor. When the car went to Midas to get a quote to have it lowered they did an inspection and they informed me that both bottom ball joints need replacing as well as the front struts and rear shocks.

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2005 11:56 am 
Getting Side Ways
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I got a camber kit and new shocks and struts and superlow springs all round for ~$1000.

Maybe their prices are a little high. Try a suspension specialist in your area.

 

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Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 7:55 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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missEF wrote:
Thanks for your advice Interceptor. When the car went to Midas to get a quote to have it lowered they did an inspection and they informed me that both bottom ball joints need replacing as well as the front struts and rear shocks.


Yeah, the bottom ball joints always need replacing ... quite a common thing on the falcons, If you can find someone to press them for you, or someone that has a press, its not that bad. .

$1000 seems a little pricey for it all ..
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Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 9:29 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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i had my lower balljoints replaced, i went to press them out, they wouldn't budge, even made 2 tools up in the lathe to help, but they would not come out.
i ended up taking both arms over to fulcrum with the new balljoints i purchased, they charged me $70 to press them out and fit my new ones. (paid $50 for the 2).
i needed it asap, so cost wasn't even an issue for me.

 

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Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 9:39 pm 
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smoke_rubber wrote:
i had my lower balljoints replaced, i went to press them out, they wouldn't budge, even made 2 tools up in the lathe to help, but they would not come out.
i ended up taking both arms over to fulcrum with the new balljoints i purchased, they charged me $70 to press them out and fit my new ones. (paid $50 for the 2).
i needed it asap, so cost wasn't even an issue for me.


Had to hammer out quite a few ... lol .. but yeah, sometimes they don't even press in nice ....
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Posted: Sat Feb 05, 2005 2:04 pm 
Parts Gopher
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nothing unusuall about tight ball joints. We have to use the press at the local council dept to get them out sometimes as our press just wont hack it. Personally i have never had one that wont come out, If u are persistent enough most times they will come out

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 9:08 pm 
Oompa Loompa
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Fulcrum have quoted me $295 to do both top and bottom ball joints so i am getting it done on Monday and it seems there is nothing wrong with the shocks and struts. Midas are rip off merchants.

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 9:10 pm 
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that price is about right, i find fulcrum aren't rip-off priced, they do good wheel alignments too

 

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Posted: Tue Feb 08, 2005 11:20 am 
Oompa Loompa
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thanks smoke_rubber for your help and everybody else. I am also going to see what Fulcrum charge to lower the rear to match the front so it is level alround. Was going to lower both the front and back but thought it might scrub when the 17" mags go on. Any advice.

 

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Posted: Tue Feb 08, 2005 8:56 pm 
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my kings superlows don't scrape the guards, but you have to go slow over speed humps, or ya might land on your exhaust system.

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 09, 2005 9:24 pm 
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scraping - in my EA sedan, athe shocks and springs were taken out, and the swaybar, it was sitting on trailing arms, and a watts link.. still didn't scrub on teh wheel guard. (with 15" rims).

As for lowering blocks... they aren't always the preferred method of lowering a wagon/ute but it works. I am getting my wagon leaf srpings reset soon, and I have 2" or 2.5" or something rather lowering blocks in mine. if you are interested send me a PM, and you can buy them off me. As for the price you were quoted, thats utter s**t.

I got quoated $140 to reset my springs with 2 extra leaf for each side for stiffening.. this was mates rates, but Im sure it's not that much more normally.

The front is an everyday heard story... go through all the lowering threads, and see how much people pay. Its not alot.


Cheers

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 09, 2005 10:01 pm 
Oompa Loompa
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thanks smoke_rubber. I know all about going slow over speed humps as our EB is lowered and i have to watch it when driving because it has a habit of bottoming out. It is bad enough when i get out of the bloody thing i nearly end up sitting on my a***.

 

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