Hi, have an AU XR8, its a 99 model, basically was driving a few people home last night and the rear drivers side window wound down completely using the front power window button but then would not go back up. Both passenger and drivers side rear windows now will not operate. I checked the fuses and they all seem fine. Theres no clicking noises or grinding or anything like that when the buttons are pressed on the door itself or using the drivers door window controls. Its as if all power is just gone to the rear.

Ive tried swearing at them but that was mostly ineffective..

If i cant fix it today i need to at least get that one window back up as i use my car for work and where i park someone will steal my s**t, guaranteed.

If my electric window motors are shagged are they the same as an EF/EL?

Swapped the switch over with another, tried the switch it did nothing, tried the drivers side switch and it wound up. Wtf?

Now to the wreckers for new switches..

The windows switching passes through the drivers switch then to the door switch.
They are connected in series. So the problem can the the drivers switch or the door switch (or both).
Window controls in almost all cars are wired this way.

I have an AU and it is a regular problem.
I pull all four switch assemblies out, take them to my bench and disassemble the switches and clean the contacts.
I use MicroScrub to clean the contacts (Go to http://www.radioparts.com.au and search on item 50321003).

Re-assemble and reinstall.
It needs to be done every 12 months or so.

In older cars (X series), the switches cannot be dis-assembled and cleaned so I made "servo" relays for those.
The switch operates relays and the relays operate the windows..never a problem after that.

I've done this for my cars - the relays divert the majority of the current flow from the switches, so they will operate without problems for indefinitely. You only really need to have this setup on the up lines, as this is where most of the current draw is.

If installing "servo" relays one has the NC contact on both relays available.
Is better to wire ground to these and have the return current passing through a heavy duty relay contact rather than the switch.
I connect the wire to the NC contact to a seperate ground to chassis (connected to the door metal) so that the ground does not pass through the switch contacts.
That way the switches are bypassed completely for high current.

Wiring diagram attached

 

 

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