Slight continuation from my last post here..

ford-4l-and-6-cylinder-f1/serious-running-issues-ideas-anyone-t120673.html

So I try to do a diagnostic,

KOEO: hook up jumper and light, turn key to on, after a second or so the relays click a second time, but no flashes from the light..

I am using a T10 bulb and holder with extended wires.. Will this work ok, or do I need to use a LED or multimeter to detect the voltage more accurately?

I get no flashes at all, have left it on for 5 mins total.

With the KOER, the idles steps up twice to around 2500 Rpm..

But then I think my problem with the ISC kicks in and the revs won't drop for the ECU normally. It just hangs at 2500, So I get no flashes from that either.

The starting of the engine is a touchy subject, sometimes it will fire up ok, other times it will take quite unwind over and a rough pick up to start and idle.

From idle any touch on the accelerator will make the revs self rise to 2500 as described in the other thread..
Unplugging the ISC immediately drops the revs to normal idle, then plugging it back in will rise the idle very slightly by maybe 1-300 rpm... Still just under 1000 rpm though.

When trying to rev the engine (ISC connected or not) it will sputter and not rev high, also, when giving the engine quick light stabs (to half throttle max) the BBM diaphragm will flick slightly,

I have unplugged the suction line off the BBM solenoid and it has a good suction at idle but I can feel it slack off slightly as I rev the engine quickly..

I have checked the black/blue one way valve, it's ok, can't seem to find any holes/vacuum leaks..

Now for the final brain rape... The battery I have has started the car twice this morning (multiple times yesterday, disconnected it overnight last night) then I have left it connected till about 5, done the second KOEO test, started the car once to warm it up, then a second time for the KOER, but after turning the engine back off and trying to start a minute later the battery has drained and turns over very slowly.

What can drain a battery while the car is running???

Dodgy sensor? Something shorting out while the engine is running? Or maybe ECU faulty..

I've been thinking about making a video.. If anyone thinks it would help let me know..

Please help of you can, have a think and ask any questions..

You need a 560ohm resister soldered to an LED to get the codes to spit out, or a multimeter (analogue specifally I think) but I have only used the LED method as it's better to interpret the codes with anyway.

Regarding that ISC a good sign to tell if they're stuffed/stuck is if the revs hang high for a few seconds after revving. Probably have a few vacuum leaks too, check the map sensor hose (from under the car manifold side as it will most likely be split and only visible from underneath), cracked brake booster, if it actually has a manifold gasket installed lol, 2500rpm is a joke. Could be the tps.

I'd say the TFI module is stuffed or the timing is out regarding the other problems but it could be other things (map sensor, timing, put a timing light on it and see if the flashes are consistent. The hard start as well as these issues could be a stuffed head gasket, coolant leaking into the cylinder which is what happened to mine. I had no white smoke, no exhaust gases in coolant, no oil mixed in whatsoever. The ONLY way I could tell it had blown was I was losing coolant and only 1/4 of a tank every month, if you're losing ANY coolant and have no leaks, a good cap and lpg converter then your head gasket has split on the firing ring. Mine split into cyl 1 5&6 the entire valve chamber was green.

As for the battery maybe a stuffed alternator? The light on the dash should come on, if it hasn't you can test the alternator with a multimeter I think (high voltage when running check correct procedure before doing this). a dodgy earth or current leak or something?

Thanks for the reply there mate,

It's handy having another outside view to reflect on..

I was reading last night on another thread about someone who made their own diagnostics LED.... Now where was that thread...

TPS is a good thought, throttle not telling where it is properly..

TFI module, I also saw TimmyA had found one from America with a heat sink and he relocated it... Gonna have a look at that today...

Alternator I'll test/try another one today...

This is really breaking my brain the things this car is doing are really strange.

It started being just a little hard to start, either it would kick normally, if it failed off that first kick it would take some winding, and didn't like a bootful at all when driving, making me lean toward fuel pressure being bad, but the way it winds and stinks of fuel when it dose kick leans me toward timing..

I'll put a light over it and see what that says..

Thanks again..

+1 I'd say it would be the alternator but deffinatly check with a multimeter.

Just a Bump..
Anyone else have ideas?

If it is idling "normally" with the ISC disconnected as you said, either your idle is set too high or you have a massive vacuum leak. Modified throttle bodies often cause this as they leak so much air. Sort this out to address the high revving and rev hang.

The battery flatness is unrelated IMO, test your alternator separately.

Well. For the readers, just to let you know..

Problem half solved..

It was a vacuum leak, under the airbox where the 2 carbon canister lines went through the fender, one had split.

The EL box forced them to a weird angle and vibration did it's thing.

Now it only sputters and breaks down under load..

EDIT: Thanks again for the ideas fellas.

Is the a/c turned on? Ive never seen it on a falcon but my 2.8l td patrol does it, theres a problem with the compressor, also has no gas in it but thats not the cause and if i run the a/c it takes bout 30 minutes for each battery to run out

Hey mate.

I have the A/C decommissioned. But that's a good thought, maybe one if the wires has gone astray and causing a short or drain. Cheers.

I have solved 3/4 of the problem.

Found a vacuum leak under the airbox, the carbon canister grommet had perished and split, so I pulled it out and used some fuel line to patch it up. Instantly made it run happier.

Checked the alternator now it finally ran and idled normally, found that to have no charging, so swapped the alternator and that ironed out the minor electrical tics.

Not though it still dosnt like load. Sputters and f@rt like a cow full of laxatives.

The fuel pump was a little intermittent last start attempt, so I'm hoping it's only that, gonna do a pressure test and see where that points me..

Because other than that.. I have found through some searching that 2 scary words pop up...
Aux Shaft!!!!
(say it like youd say "Ricky Spanish")
Man I hope not.