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| Motivat-ed |
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Hey guys how do I go about fitting this lip that I have? Its fibre glass i pressume
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| Benny D |
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Sticky tape
_________________ BA XT V8. Ice Mint. 18" Speedys. XR6T LSD. Full Pacemaker twin 2 1/2inch Stainless Steel system. Custom CAI. Black XR interior with white trimming. Powerbond underdrive kit 25%. |
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| phongus |
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...from what I have seen, Sikaflex it on the bumper. Sikaflex is strong and holds pretty well, however if you don't prepare the surface properly, the glue won't stick well and you get a bad result. So make sure all surfaces are clean of any grime/wax/dirt etc. It is also good because you can remove it without damage to the bumper.
Another option would be to attach some brackets to it which contours to the shape of the bumper. Then you can attach nuts/bolts/screws from the inside of the bumper to the bracket. You will still need sikaflex or similar to seal the edges and get a smooth finish/transition between bumper and lip. Downside, you will have holes in your bumper if you remove the lip, however I'd imagine it will hold much better than sikaflex alone. So either way, you'll be using sikaflex.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| TROYMAN |
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onthe factory lip, which that is a copy of..
there are 3 screws that screw upwards either side and one ot 2 either end where it goes around into wheel arch..
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| Motivat-ed |
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Would pop rivets be a bad choice to use?
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| TROYMAN |
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Motivat-ed wrote: Would pop rivets be a bad choice to use? pop rivets could crack the fibreglass.. |
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| Motivat-ed |
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Thats what I was thinking
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| Motivat-ed |
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Well had a go at fitting the lip last night, Ive got it sitting where I want it and screwed down but because its fibreglass it sticks out a bit near the wheel wells and where it curves down on the front of the bumper.
Im going to be fibre glassing it to the bumper so its all smooth then bog over the top, Hopefully it works out for me, 1st timer fibre glassing so will practise on something else before I even go to do it on the bumper |
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| blueblood |
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Had mine screwed and double sided taped on, ok from a distance but never looked right, glass ones dont fit as well as plastic.
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_________________ 93 EB S-XR8 5 SPEED, |
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| Motivat-ed |
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Yeah ive noticed how much it tends to stick out, I actually had to shave some of my bumper off on the edges to make it fit as I didnt want to mess much with the lip it self. I just hope with fibre glassing the whole lot it looks better
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| blade007 |
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as the guys said before sikaflex if u want a nice smooth look mask around the bumper and the lip ad sika using ur finger .has to be wet spit or water dosnt matter ,blend the sika around the edges then when finnished remove tape and alow to dry pain after its dry ...leaves it seamless looks nice
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| Motivat-ed |
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Yeah ive seen that but I want a full smooth look as thats what i like, just need to learn fibreglassing
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| blade007 |
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fibre glassing i easy bro just mix ur resin right and your good to go but do not do it with out gloves the resin can burn your skin ..look on u tube and sse how to do it ,or give u a rough idea
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| phongus |
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blade007 wrote: fibre glassing i easy bro just mix ur resin right and your good to go but do not do it with out gloves the resin can burn your skin ..look on u tube and sse how to do it ,or give u a rough idea It's not as easy as you think if you want a good finish. The resin mix has to be optimal with accordance to ambient temperature and humidity. For instance, if you add too much hardener on a hot day and low humidity, the resin can dry/harden quicker causing some micro cracks (making it brittle) and bad warping due to quick contraction. On the other end of the scale, not enough hardener and the resin mix will never set or take forever. Depending on what resin you use (epoxy or polyester), you will see different levels of contraction. From memory, epoxy has less contraction when drying compared to polyester and therefore epoxy usually has a better finish. 23-25C with low humidity is best temperature to work in from my experience.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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