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| AUII.Denim |
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Hey guys,
The Fairmont has been making a noise which has now been diagnosed as the FLHS wheel bearing needing replacement, and I've been quoted $150 to replace it. Does this price sound fair? How much do the parts alone cost? Is it easy enough for a DIY job? Thanks in advance
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| joolz |
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Very easy to do yourself, remove caliper, rotor and 1 nut holds on the bearing assembly. For under $150 you can purchase the bearings to do both sides yourself.
Ebay Link>>>> http://shop.ebay.com.au/?_from=R40&_trk ... Categories |
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| cjh |
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You cannot replace the bearings in an AU-BF. It sounds too cheap, actually. You will need a 35mm, Deep socket to remove the nut inside the hub assembly. They are very easy to do, if you know what your doing.
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| krisisdog |
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joolz wrote: Very easy to do yourself, remove caliper, rotor and 1 nut holds on the bearing assembly. For under $150 you can purchase the bearings to do both sides yourself. Ebay Link>>>> http://shop.ebay.com.au/?_from=R40&_trk ... Categories On an E-series maybe, but B Series are different. |
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| naughtyfalcon |
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and always replace both sides,,never just do one.
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| joolz |
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krisisdog wrote: joolz wrote: Very easy to do yourself, remove caliper, rotor and 1 nut holds on the bearing assembly. For under $150 you can purchase the bearings to do both sides yourself. Ebay Link>>>> http://shop.ebay.com.au/?_from=R40&_trk ... Categories On an E-series maybe, but B Series are different. I know the AU and B series are different!! Did you bother to look at the link i provided which clearly shows hub assemblies and NOT bearings. In fact the AU and B series are easier than the E series to replace as there is not critical torque settings to seat the bearings (30Nm) then set pre load (1Nm). As in my first post which i never said to replace the actual bearings but whats involved. In the attached image you can see that the caliper(1) and rotor(8) has to be removed. Then the dust cap(10) to access nut(9) to remove bearing/hub assembly(7)
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| Papa Smurf |
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BTW, AU and BA/BF front hubs are exactly the same. There ARE after-market hubs available but have heard that they are not as good as the Genuine.
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| low_ryda |
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well for an e series the bearings would cost well under $50 and i would do it for a bottle of rum in a few hours, so yes that sounds expensive. not sure bout the b series though i checked mine the other day and they have a non-servicable sealed unit so not sure bout price, but imagine installation would be similar.
can't believe the amount that accessory fitters charge when they call themselves mechanics. i'm a boilermaker i wish i could call myself a mechanical engineer when im drawing & developing i could charge double what i'm worth to.
_________________ Not to get technical, but according to chemistry alcohol is a solution. |
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| joolz |
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AUII.Denim wrote: Hey guys, The Fairmont has been making a noise which has now been diagnosed as the FLHS wheel bearing needing replacement, and I've been quoted $150 to replace it. Does this price sound fair? How much do the parts alone cost? Is it easy enough for a DIY job? Thanks in advance Unfortunately the model wasnt included but i assume its the same as his ride an AUII. |
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| AUII.Denim |
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joolz wrote: Very easy to do yourself, remove caliper, rotor and 1 nut holds on the bearing assembly. For under $150 you can purchase the bearings to do both sides yourself. Ebay Link>>>> http://shop.ebay.com.au/?_from=R40&_trk ... Categories Thanks for your help. Unfortunately as i was just about to go out and buy the new hub assemblys my folks arrived home without the fairmont! They then informed me they had just put it into a mechanic to fix it. Oh well, I guess its their money wasted not mine.
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| kovac |
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I bought the bearing for 133 just one prob how do u take the cover off the nut as it doesnt look like it can handle that much pressure its like a cover with holes around it with splits where the spanner slips on
_________________ there is only 2 rules in driving go hard or go home |
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| Robert_au |
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kovac wrote: I bought the bearing for 133 just one prob how do u take the cover off the nut as it doesnt look like it can handle that much pressure its like a cover with holes around it with splits where the spanner slips on You don't pull the cage off its part of the nut and washer assembly. 35mm 6 sided deep socket fits them. Attachment: File comment: nut, washer cage ln.jpg [ 9.83 KiB | Viewed 6266 times ] if you do rip the cage off your left pulling 4 thin nuts that are imposable line back up and to torque back down OOPS OLD THREAD
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| Matt_jew |
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You NEVER reuse the old nuts.
They are to be replaced at the same time as you replace the hub.
_________________ xr6turnip wrote: More people paid for a ride in a VT commodore then an AU Falcon so the VT is superior.
Based on that fact my Mum is the best around! |
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