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| 5h4dy |
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Hi all,
My rear windows on the EF Fairmont are not working correctly. One side will only open halfway, then sometimes gets stuck and needs a wiggle when closing, the other side opens all the way, but then needs persuasion to come back up. Just thought I would see if anyone has had the issue and there's an easy fix before I yank the door cards off and play with them. |
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| kimboxr6 |
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Spray some silicone in the running channels for a quick fix.
Dry lube works also. Just think your channels are dry.
_________________ ef2 fairmont ghia tickford 6 |
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| SWC |
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Be careful with silicon spray, it will work but also attracts the dust and makes it worse after a while. Graphite powder will work.
Ford had some good s**t for this but it is supposed to cause cancer  .
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| 5h4dy |
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| SWC |
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Just watch it, it is dust stuff (or can be).
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| kimboxr6 |
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The entire length where the glass slides on the inside.
_________________ ef2 fairmont ghia tickford 6 |
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| Mad2 |
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isn't it true that when the windows start doing this, they also start 'rocking' length ways?
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| 5h4dy |
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Okay, so got hold of some graphite powder, and treated both rear windows.
One of them now appears to work fine, but the other one is still not closing properly. With the graphite powder and a bit of very gentle persuasion it is now at the point where it will open almost all the way, but still a nightmare to close, and is making a kinda gravelly sound. I guess I will need to pull that one apart |
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| 5h4dy |
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I finally got around to pulling the door card off, and it appears that the cable on the actuator is destroyed.
It also appears that the darn thing is riveted inside the door! Is this going to be a pain to replace?
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| SWC |
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The power window regulators are bolted in, not rivited.
On the rear there are 2 through the inner door skin on the bottom and 1 on the top. 2 bolts hold the power unit to the window. You will need to have the window in the up position to undo these easily. Access is through holes in the inner skin of the door. |
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| 5h4dy |
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The motor unit with the cable attached was held in with 3 large rivets. I had to drill them out. I will use bolts when putting the replacement unit in, as I do not have large enough rivets, or the tool to insert any of that size.
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| SWC |
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True, forgot that the motor unit is rivited.
Just use bolts. I use the slip on speed nut clips, saves trying to hold a nut in a small space. The ones that are used in the dash are good (5mm) and you can use the same screws from the dash. Attachment: speed nuts.JPG [ 133.46 KiB | Viewed 219 times ] |
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| 5h4dy |
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Ahh good point, I didn't think of those - cheers, that will make life a lot easier
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| TimmyA |
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You use a small pin punch and belt the centre out of the original rivets... Then they drill out like normal...
The are 1/4" (6mm) diamter rivets which is big... And need a big rivet gun to put in... My aftermarket reg came with treaded posts and bolts supplied... You just lined it up and put the supplied bolts into the threaded posts on the motor frame... Pretty easy... Cheers, Tim
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