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| roughredXR6 |
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If you use the manual ecu, or auto ecu and j3 chip, join the red/blue wire to black/green (on the manual loom plug). This bypasses the starter lockout which allows you to start the car without needing to be in neutral.
Attachment: 2015-01-08 16.33.36.png Now grab your auto loom and plug it back in at the firewall. Work out which wires in the auto loom connect to black/white and tan/light green (they will be next to each other) on the main loom. Chop all the other wires out and put female spade terminals on the end of the above mentioned wires. These are to be connected to the neutral switch. Attachment: 2015-01-08 17.00.06.png
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_________________ Ported ED XR6 head shaved too much, AU gasket, custom Crow Cam, Pacemaker 4480's, 5-speed conversion, billet aluminium flywheel, GT clutch, T.I. Performance J3 chip, custom water/methanol injection, modified BA throttle body. Paint&Panel by Barbed Wire Fence. |
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| E-series |
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Hmm that's not good :/ So you both think the ECU is stuffed. Because all I have in at the moment is that manual loom and the Auto ECU right now and it starts up fine. With Manual ECU installed, it won't start.
roughredXR6 wrote: If you use the manual ecu, or auto ecu and j3 chip, join the red/blue wire to black/green (on the manual loom plug). This bypasses the starter lockout which allows you to start the car without needing to be in neutral. Attachment: 2015-01-08 16.33.36.png Now grab your auto loom and plug it back in at the firewall. Work out which wires in the auto loom connect to black/white and tan/light green (they will be next to each other) on the main loom. Chop all the other wires out and put female spade terminals on the end of the above mentioned wires. These are to be connected to the neutral switch. Attachment: 2015-01-08 17.00.06.png Before I go messing around with my wiring loom, how come I need to bypass the starter lockout? I can start the car in first (haven't tried other gears) with the clutch in as well as neutral. Would this mean I don't need to join these red/blue and black/green wires? I also for whatever reason have another ECU lying around with the code '4DAD' - EF Falcon 95' 6 cyl Manual Wagon. Is it worth my time to install that and see what happens? It's not from an XR6 is all. |
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| Mad2 |
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E-series wrote: I also for whatever reason have another ECU lying around with the code '4DAD' - EF Falcon 95' 6 cyl Manual Wagon. Is it worth my time to install that and see what happens? It's not from an XR6 is all. try it ... shouldn't hurt |
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| SWC |
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E-series wrote: I also for whatever reason have another ECU lying around with the code '4DAD' - EF Falcon 95' 6 cyl Manual Wagon. Is it worth my time to install that and see what happens? It's not from an XR6 is all. It will work if the ECU is OK. The wagon ECU just won't have the XR fuel maps etc. It will prove if you have something wrong with your XR ECU. |
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| TROYMAN |
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E-series wrote: Hmm that's not good :/ So you both think the ECU is stuffed. Because all I have in at the moment is that manual loom and the Auto ECU right now and it starts up fine. With Manual ECU installed, it won't start. roughredXR6 wrote: If you use the manual ecu, or auto ecu and j3 chip, join the red/blue wire to black/green (on the manual loom plug). This bypasses the starter lockout which allows you to start the car without needing to be in neutral. Attachment: 2015-01-08 16.33.36.png Now grab your auto loom and plug it back in at the firewall. Work out which wires in the auto loom connect to black/white and tan/light green (they will be next to each other) on the main loom. Chop all the other wires out and put female spade terminals on the end of the above mentioned wires. These are to be connected to the neutral switch. Attachment: 2015-01-08 17.00.06.png Before I go messing around with my wiring loom, how come I need to bypass the starter lockout? I can start the car in first (haven't tried other gears) with the clutch in as well as neutral. Would this mean I don't need to join these red/blue and black/green wires? I also for whatever reason have another ECU lying around with the code '4DAD' - EF Falcon 95' 6 cyl Manual Wagon. Is it worth my time to install that and see what happens? It's not from an XR6 is all. you don't need to mess around with the loom, the manual loom already has the inhibiter starter circuit bridged... |
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| E-series |
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Thanks so much for the help everyone. I just tried the wagon ECU and the car ran fine. If anything it idled better than the auto XR6 ECU (but I put the Auto EF XR6 ECU back in anyway). Looks like the manual EF XR6 ECU is dodgy.
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| E-series |
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Update: I told the seller about the ECU not working and he said that it worked fine in his car when he removed it. He reckons it's to do with the code not matching the BCM. Could this be my problem? Strange because the EF manual wagon ECU works completely fine...
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| TROYMAN |
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E-series wrote: Update: I told the seller about the ECU not working and he said that it worked fine in his car when he removed it. He reckons it's to do with the code not matching the BCM. Could this be my problem? Strange because the EF manual wagon ECU works completely fine... nope, seller is full of s**t... you can fit any ef ecu and it will start and run.. its not until au where the ecu is matched to the bcm.. |
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| E-series |
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TROYMAN wrote: nope, seller is full of s**t... you can fit any ef ecu and it will start and run.. its not until au where the ecu is matched to the bcm.. That was my impression after a little research,too. I never read anywhere of anyone having this issue so I suspected it was still a fault of the ECU. Thanks. I will request to return the ECU and get a refund asap. Quick question, if it were somehow a mismatch between the ECU and BCM, what would happen? Car would be immobilised? ie: Try to start car and nothing at all would happen? No cranking or anything? Cheers. |
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| roughredXR6 |
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As Troyman said the ecu and bcm aren't matched, so as long as its a ef ecu it should start and run. My ed xr6 ran an el fairmont ecu and I have used a xh ute ecu in it also at one point. All were basically plug in and go.
_________________ Ported ED XR6 head shaved too much, AU gasket, custom Crow Cam, Pacemaker 4480's, 5-speed conversion, billet aluminium flywheel, GT clutch, T.I. Performance J3 chip, custom water/methanol injection, modified BA throttle body. Paint&Panel by Barbed Wire Fence. |
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| E-series |
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roughredXR6 wrote: As Troyman said the ecu and bcm aren't matched, so as long as its a ef ecu it should start and run. My ed xr6 ran an el fairmont ecu and I have used a xh ute ecu in it also at one point. All were basically plug in and go. Thanks for the confirmation. I have asked for a refund so hopefully he says alright. Else I will have to go through the PayPal system. I recorded a video with that faulty EF XR6 ECU just in case. Basically the engine starts to turn over for about half a second and then just stops. |
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| ncII_fairlane |
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hey guys, i converted my 94 NCII fairlane 6cyl to manual in january and since then it wont start, the ecu and therefore the fuel pump wont activate when the key is turned to the 'on' position and it wont even crank, i get a noise for about 5 seconds from the abs pump and the smart lock light flashes as it would when the key is in the 'off' position when i put the key in 'start' position.
i have replaced the ecu, smartlock module and ignition barrel, done the resistor trick as im still using an auto ecu and checked all earths but still no luck. here is a video of what im talking about
_________________ '92 NCII Fairlane Ghia - dead |
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| EFELPOS |
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What if my cars already a manual the ecu is just shot and the only one I can find is an auto ecu to put in an original manual car. What then...?
Edit; not buying j3 either will the car run |
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| KevinED |
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Guys,
I have a late EL (98) and am in the middle of the manual conversion. I purchased the resistors as per the guide, however the loom is not seperate at the top- it is integrated with the engine loom. I guess the resistors are still required? Is there a write up on what's required, ie wire colours? Would I be better off with a manual ECU? I did a couple of searches but apart from the guide, nothing specific came up? Cheers Kevin |
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| phongus |
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KevinED wrote: Guys, I have a late EL (98) and am in the middle of the manual conversion. I purchased the resistors as per the guide, however the loom is not seperate at the top- it is integrated with the engine loom. I guess the resistors are still required? Is there a write up on what's required, ie wire colours? Would I be better off with a manual ECU? I did a couple of searches but apart from the guide, nothing specific came up? Cheers Kevin Resistors are still required. With the wiring loom, you can cut and solder in the resistors at the ECU end, so it all stays internal. On the other hand, you can also cut/solder at the transmission plug end, probably easier to work with IMO than at the ECU. In saying all that, all I did was bend the resistor ends into loops and plugged them into the plug and taped it all up. Can easily just remove all the resistors and plug into an auto box without having to remove resistors by cutting. Have been driving it like that since 2007. Only issues I had was hunting idle and when I used a J3 chip. Other than that, still drives without major issues. If you looked through the thread (I know it's long) MAD had posted colours for his EL conversion. In saying that, make sure the colours match yours before you start. Never know when Ford decided to change wire colours, especially in later EL hybrids. MAD wrote: The colours are different for EL as there is no separate gearbox loom. Here's some notes I made. This should be enough to get you through it. On the little square plug, join wires Red/Dark Blue & Black to bypass the neutral inhibitor. For reverse you need to connect the other two wires to the reverse switch on the gearbox. (Red/Black & White/Red) On the round plug at the gearbox, the 1.2k resistor goes between the Yellow and Black/White wires for gear select, and the 6.8k resistor goes between Pink/Green and Black/White for trans temperature. A manual EL ECU is hard to come by and if you done come across one, you will be paying a fair amount for it. Also here is a tip for using the search on fordmods...don't. Use google instead and just type fordmods with what you're looking for and it will sort things out quicker than the woeful fordmods search! Hope that helps
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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